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Yes Bustos, you'll need an adapter for your hyper 212. Sorry I didn't mention that sooner!

Bustos, I can't speak to their qualifications, but you can see how this board compares to other AM4 boards in terms of VRM looking at this link (and the links in the OP). The OP indicates that based on his/her analysis of the VRM it would "require airflow (presumably over the VRM) for a highly OC'd 2700X." Of course you're not going to be highly OCing the CPU necessarily, and you have airflow (maybe not as good as downdraft VRM wise, but much better than liquid).

PBO can become power hungry during all core workloads/stress testing. My 2600X can easily draw over 105W through the VCORE VRM (according to HWiNFO64 SVI2 TFN readings) running prime95, and the whole package can draw over 120W. However during typical use of workloads that don't fully stress all cores, it will be much less demanding than an all core overclock. To put things into perspective, PBO is capable of pushing more juice through the 6 cores of my 2600X than the spec 105W TDP for the 2700X.

It's important to recognize that there are two forms of boost, the stock function which boosts to the same clock under single core loads (4250MHz for the 2600x, 4350MHz for the 2700x) but limits the maximum power consumption more aggressively than the overclocked version. This behaves much the same as increasing the power slider on a GPU. https://community.amd.com/community...precision-boost-overdrive-in-three-easy-steps. Effectively it increases the clocks of more cores at once. For example on my CPU, this means that running Prime95, all cores remain over 4000MHz for the entire run, and often most if not all cores will be running in excess of 4100MHz.

I would not consider, personally, placing any 8 core CPU in that motherboard, but I am probably overly concerned with VRM (I did put a 6 core CPU into a board with VRM easily capable of taking an 8 core sub-ambient...) In truth, I imagine that board would be more than adequate for stock settings, including single core boosts of 4350MHz, on the 2700X. I would not consider it ideal for enabling the expanded power consumption limits on an 8 core CPU, and you would possibly need VRM airflow in excess of that provided by the CPU cooler. It would at least require careful monitoring during stress testing. Edit: I just wanted to add, that is presuming that this expanded power usage setting is available in the BIOS of that board in the first place.

From my perspective, this combination is like placing budget all season tires on a sports car. Can you do it, sure, but you're probably leaving some performance on the table.
 
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sub-par.. not good... terrible...a object of not good quality. :)

How did the word "potato" get associated with sub par? Must be a millennial generation term or something. I love to eat potatoes and they are good for you (in limited quantities, that is).

Found this on: https://idioms.thefreedictionary.com

potayto, potahto
A negligible, trivial, or unimportant difference, distinction, or correction. (While "potahto" is not an accepted pronunciation in any English-speaking population, the phrase is an allusion to a verse in the song "Let's Call the Whole Thing Off": "You like potayto, I like potahto; you like tomayto, I like tomahto; potayto, potahto, tomayto, tomahto, let's call the whole thing off!")
 
I first heard it watching twitch/you tube streams. They were saying it about themselves and others and being 'not good'. :)

Its mostly a younger crowd here... so figured it would land to most. :p
 
My budget for the build will be increasing slightly. Yay!

Going to be stepping up to a MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC, MSI Gaming X 1660ti and changing the SSD to a 1TB M.2 Intel 660 SSD.

The jury is still out on the case.
 
I dropped a post in there. It’s actually related across several brands of mobos. It’s just a matter how quickly the brands correct the bug and release the updated bios.

Thanks for that heads up.
 
Bustos, I'm not sure I follow at all. The article you linked in that page is discussing beta BIOS for Zen 2 (AKA Ryzen 3000 series) CPU support on 400 series chipsets (which natively support Zen + AKA Ryzen 2000 series CPUs). AMD had promised backwards compatibility with the new CPUs and older chipsets, and this is discussing the implementation of this. As far as I can tell, it is not relevant to any Zen+ 2000 series CPU.

The concern with voltage offset does have to do with using PBO, or really any overclock using Auto voltage. However using manual voltage it is irrelevant. If you don't plan to overclock, or plan to do so setting voltage manually in the BIOS, then you don't need to worry about that.

Either way the second board you listed is much better than the first one :).
 
The concern with voltage offset does have to do with using PBO, or really any overclock using Auto voltage. However using manual voltage it is irrelevant. If you don't plan to overclock, or plan to do so setting voltage manually in the BIOS, then you don't need to worry about that.

Since they are related I thought that’s why he was having issues with the offset voltage with that bios update. But since he’s manually overclocking that doesn’t apply to him. I get it now. So then do nevermind me. 🙃
 
I cant attest to the fact that offset voltage in my new MSI B450 gaming plus AC is not implemented very well and seems to function more like one of those auto overclock genies. Whether you give it a + or - value it seems merely to jack the vcore up way past what you need to be stable. It's not really an offset but a supplement to the baseline voltage.
 
I cant attest to the fact that offset voltage in my new MSI B450 gaming plus AC is not implemented very well and seems to function more like one of those auto overclock genies. Whether you give it a + or - value it seems merely to jack the vcore up way past what you need to be stable. It's not really an offset but a supplement to the baseline voltage.

So what your saying is negative offset does not work?
 
With all of the new hardware coming out, I waited for price drops. Well, during that time, my budget increased due to various reasons.

My initial part list, if anyone is interested. ~$1k for 1080p gaming

My working part list now. ~$2.5k for 1440p gaming. This was ~$2k but I moved up from 3600x to 3700x, expanded to 2 separate SSDs, and CL14 3200 RAM to CL16 3600 RAM. Many thanks to all the help earlier and in other threads that lead to this list.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($329.00 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($143.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.89 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card ($719.99 @ Newegg Business)
Case: NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case ($78.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($103.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($106.99 @ Other World Computing)
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278QR 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor ($519.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2387.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-01 20:29 EDT-0400

Goals:
1440p, 144/165Hz gaming, 1ms refresh rate, 27" (my criteria for the monitor)
Games: Cyberpunk 2077, Ghost Recon: Breakpoint, The Surge 2, Watchdog: Legion
Support potential future upgrade paths
Support multi monitor set up
Support video recording while gaming
Easy fresh OS reinstalls without losing main data

Pieces of info: My budget does extend to $3k. NZXT is coming out with a 510 version of their case for about the same price as the 500 and that’s the case I’m aiming for at the moment. I went with the 2.5’ versions of the 860 Evos because they were slightly cheaper for the same performance. The working list is a bit more computer than I need. Although, TBH, I would be lying if I said I wasn’t considering a 2080TI...
Kenrou said:
Because science ofc

The funds are there although I do not have any urgency to buy any of this at the moment. My ‘deadline’ will be Black Friday/Cyber Monday. Since I am in no rush, I can give more time for the software behind the new hardware to be ironed out, see if AMD provides a competitor for 2080 Super/TI, learn the PC requirements for most of the games I am interested in, see if more 4th Gen NVMe SSDs cause price drops on 3.0 Gen NVMe and older SATA SSDs, and grab any deals during the holiday craze. I’ll be able to grab some of these parts from Micro Center.

I’m open to comments and suggestions. My main question for anyone is, if there was one thing you could change or add to this build, what would it be and why?
 
That's a long time to wait :p. Intel may even muster a response to Zen2 by then. For memory I would do the 3200 CL14 if you can find it. It should easily do 3600 CL16 or much better. Why a 250GB SATA SSD for 60 bucks? That's a really poor price per GB ratio. Do you specifically need a separate drive or specifically need 1.25TB vs 1TB? You could almost get an NVMe boot drive for that. https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-512gb/p/0D9-002V-003Y7 https://www.newegg.com/samsung-970-evo-plus-250gb/p/N82E16820147741
 
Yes, it’s a bit of a wait. A lot of things can happen between now and then; part of the reason for waiting and why I gave myself a deadline. Otherwise I’ll be waiting forever! Once the games I am really interested in start dropping, I may pull the trigger earlier than later. Cyberpunk 2077 has really captivated my attention. I like having the plan in place ahead of time then adapt on the go.

I want a separate OS drive so I can do easy fresh OS re-installs without losing any data or migrating data. I am also looking at partitioning again and exploring that avenue. The WD Black is an extra one I have laying around to be a back up drive to the 1TB SSD. Part of the 2, 860 Evos is my OCD showing of using the same type and brand of drives for both. I’ve only begun to look at the lower end NVMe drives. Intel 660p 512GB and 1TB price points and increased speeds do look more appealing. I saw in another thread the Crucial P1 as well. I do see the Samsung NVMe is on sale right now. I’ll have to keep an eye on it. Good finds there, thanks.

As for getting a Win 10 key through urcdkey.com, it’s a consideration. The last time I tried making a usb with the win iso file, I ran into problems I couldn’t solve. I could give it a go again and see if I have better success. If I do pay full price, and most likely will, it’s for the simplicity and peace of mind of a proper key.
 
Yes, it’s a bit of a wait. A lot of things can happen between now and then; part of the reason for waiting and why I gave myself a deadline. Otherwise I’ll be waiting forever! Once the games I am really interested in start dropping, I may pull the trigger earlier than later. Cyberpunk 2077 has really captivated my attention. I like having the plan in place ahead of time then adapt on the go.

I want a separate OS drive so I can do easy fresh OS re-installs without losing any data or migrating data. I am also looking at partitioning again and exploring that avenue. The WD Black is an extra one I have laying around to be a back up drive to the 1TB SSD. Part of the 2, 860 Evos is my OCD showing of using the same type and brand of drives for both. I’ve only begun to look at the lower end NVMe drives. Intel 660p 512GB and 1TB price points and increased speeds do look more appealing. I saw in another thread the Crucial P1 as well. I do see the Samsung NVMe is on sale right now. I’ll have to keep an eye on it. Good finds there, thanks.

As for getting a Win 10 key through urcdkey.com, it’s a consideration. The last time I tried making a usb with the win iso file, I ran into problems I couldn’t solve. I could give it a go again and see if I have better success. If I do pay full price, and most likely will, it’s for the simplicity and peace of mind of a proper key.

Did you use the automated tool on the Microsoft Media Creation Tool website to build the flash drive installer or did you try to do it yourself from the ISO file? The automated tool has always worked well for me.
 
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