OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #21
I have remounted 3 times. The last time my temps went down and my load temps are better. Apparently my temps are about right with a week 28B proc.
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Project: Clean Overkill (56k? No Service)
- Thread starter eightballrj
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2003
- Location
- SF Bay Area
Yes they def are. 1.55 is about the sensible limit for WCing...I highly doubt very many run higher than that, and less still out of those manage to stay sub 60.
nikhsub isn't allowed to speak
nikhsub isn't allowed to speak
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #23
Well, Gautam I don't see how his temps are that much better than mine. I don't see his setup being any better than what I have? He did say that it was a really cold day when he got those sub 50C temps.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #25
g0dM@n said:lol nice design on those swiftech copper ramsinks.
lots of hard work there pal!
Haha, hey you gotta make it work somehow. I didn't want to cut them down all together.
BTW, I forgot to post a pic of the whole side open. I posted a top shot and a bottom shot but nothing to tie them together. So, hear it is:
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2007
Can we get some build pics? I am interested in doing a bottom mount similar to how yours is, would love to see how you cut everything out/mounted it 
.
.
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #28
Haha, I was so into the build I didn't even take any pics. All I can say is use two layers of blue painters' tape over the whole case until you are done if you are modding. Measure THRICE cut once! USE PILOT HOLES before larger bits... larger bits like to walk around on metal a lot!
I used a combination of a Dremel XRP (that I burnt up), a Dremel MultiPro, and a Jigsaw to cut all the non-circular holes. For the circular holes I used Lenox arbored hole saws(non-arbored are fine if you have a spare arbor from another purchase).
I used a 4.5" angle grinder to cut all the screws to length with a cutting wheel and a grinding wheel to smooth the end of the screws/bolts.
I used all flat-headed countersunk screws for the radgrills. I used two bosch high speed countersinking bits to counter sink the holes.
I bought a nice 29 piece set of hitachi drill bits(I normally use Dewalt but they were 25 bucks more expensive!) to drill all of the holes.
I used a 29 piece tap and die set to chase the buggered threads on the cut off screws and to tap out the holes on the bottom radiator's mounting holes so that they would accompany machine screws of the type that I had.
Since I had the painters' tape on the top and bottom of the case, I laid down the radgrill for the top and bottom radiators and measured to the sides of the case to make sure it was centered and borrowed a pair of hands to hold it while I traced the inner rim of the fan holes for the rad. I used the jigsaw to cut these holes roughly at first. Then, I went back and cleaned them up after mocking up the grill in the hole and seeing where it needed to be "edited".
Then, I measured for the holes for the fill ports and drilled them out with a 1inch hole saw.
Then I unscrewed all of the panels and accessories from the bottom of the case and mocked up how the radiator and HDD racks had to sit in there to be kosher with each other. I realized that I had to removed the front-most fan mount from the bay also. So, I removed it and remeasured. Then, with the mocked up rack in position, I used a "modified" sharpie (I narrowed the tip with a knife to fit in the screw holes) to mark the hole locations for the screws in the HDD rack and drilled out the holes.
Next, I marked where the 24 pin ATX connector needed to come through the middle divider. I used a carpenter's square to make sure that the TWO marks were lined up for the drill holes. I used a 1/2 inch drill bit for both holes and used a Dremel to connect the two holes so that I had a hole with nice, rounded edges. I did the same for the 8(4+4) pin power connector. However, I made a narrower hole with the same drill bit so that it would fit the smaller plug better.
Then, with the square, I drew on the middle divider the hole for the ventilation grill between the upper and lower chambers for flow from the bottom rad to the top chamber and cut it out with a jig saw and Dremel.
Next, I rough cut the grill with the jigsaw to cover the hole with room to spare on each side (roughly 3/4 of an inch). Then, I used the angle grinder to the the grill completely square by grinding until I was straight across each row of holes for all sides. Next, I painted the grill black and cleared it with Duplicolor automotive lacquer.
Then I measured off of the grill and cut the holes for the grommeted holes for the tubing to pass through. This was a 7/8 inch hole saw. Then, I mounted the grommets.
Next I decided where the holes needed to be in the motherboard tray so that I could pass the SATA cables and the USB header cable from the front of the case through the mobo tray and used the same "drill two holes and connect them" method.
Next came the FUN part... grommeting all of the holes so that they was no wire chaffing and for looks. I had to cut some of the grommeting to make the turns in the small holes behind the mobo. I didn't care about looks there so it wasn't pretty. But, it serves its purpose. Then, I grommeted the larger holes which were 50 times harder because it had to look good! The rectangular hole was easy except for getting the "mitered" corners to look good. Then I grommeted the grill.
Next came the sleeving. I sleeved everything but the SATA connectors. I thought that the 90 degree AC Ryan connectors looked great as is. So all I did for them was take off the stupid stickers that said SATA.... DUH! The two rear fans' (one on the side of the case on the "plus II" option mount and the rear fan) leads were cut, sleeved, soldered and heat-shrunk together. They run from the connection of the two fans at the edge of the rear fan to the fan controller over 16 gauge wire. This is of course sleeved with black 3 pin connectors. I also sleeved the power switch, power led, and hdd led wiring and ran it up to the motherboard through a hole in the tray that was already there. I took all of the wires apart and used a drill to twist them into a helix for easier sleeving and heat shrinking. I also sleeved all of the fans together on each radiator to one 16 gauge wire per radiator(one radiator worth of fans per channel on the fan controller). So, I have 7 Sanyo Denki San Aces, 3 on first channel(bottom rad), two on second channel(top rad), and two on third channel(case fans). It is a slightly positive pressure setup because of the lower speed/flow fan in the power supply.
Then I realized that I had too many Sata cables to run them through the factory cutout from the mobo and had to enlarge that and grommet it.
Then all that was left to do was to enlarge the holes in the outer skin of the case that I had already drilled to accommodate the larger machine screws and mount everything.
SORRY for the long write up. But, I figured that since I didn't have pics that I needed to be thorough.
I used a combination of a Dremel XRP (that I burnt up), a Dremel MultiPro, and a Jigsaw to cut all the non-circular holes. For the circular holes I used Lenox arbored hole saws(non-arbored are fine if you have a spare arbor from another purchase).
I used a 4.5" angle grinder to cut all the screws to length with a cutting wheel and a grinding wheel to smooth the end of the screws/bolts.
I used all flat-headed countersunk screws for the radgrills. I used two bosch high speed countersinking bits to counter sink the holes.
I bought a nice 29 piece set of hitachi drill bits(I normally use Dewalt but they were 25 bucks more expensive!) to drill all of the holes.
I used a 29 piece tap and die set to chase the buggered threads on the cut off screws and to tap out the holes on the bottom radiator's mounting holes so that they would accompany machine screws of the type that I had.
Since I had the painters' tape on the top and bottom of the case, I laid down the radgrill for the top and bottom radiators and measured to the sides of the case to make sure it was centered and borrowed a pair of hands to hold it while I traced the inner rim of the fan holes for the rad. I used the jigsaw to cut these holes roughly at first. Then, I went back and cleaned them up after mocking up the grill in the hole and seeing where it needed to be "edited".
Then, I measured for the holes for the fill ports and drilled them out with a 1inch hole saw.
Then I unscrewed all of the panels and accessories from the bottom of the case and mocked up how the radiator and HDD racks had to sit in there to be kosher with each other. I realized that I had to removed the front-most fan mount from the bay also. So, I removed it and remeasured. Then, with the mocked up rack in position, I used a "modified" sharpie (I narrowed the tip with a knife to fit in the screw holes) to mark the hole locations for the screws in the HDD rack and drilled out the holes.
Next, I marked where the 24 pin ATX connector needed to come through the middle divider. I used a carpenter's square to make sure that the TWO marks were lined up for the drill holes. I used a 1/2 inch drill bit for both holes and used a Dremel to connect the two holes so that I had a hole with nice, rounded edges. I did the same for the 8(4+4) pin power connector. However, I made a narrower hole with the same drill bit so that it would fit the smaller plug better.
Then, with the square, I drew on the middle divider the hole for the ventilation grill between the upper and lower chambers for flow from the bottom rad to the top chamber and cut it out with a jig saw and Dremel.
Next, I rough cut the grill with the jigsaw to cover the hole with room to spare on each side (roughly 3/4 of an inch). Then, I used the angle grinder to the the grill completely square by grinding until I was straight across each row of holes for all sides. Next, I painted the grill black and cleared it with Duplicolor automotive lacquer.
Then I measured off of the grill and cut the holes for the grommeted holes for the tubing to pass through. This was a 7/8 inch hole saw. Then, I mounted the grommets.
Next I decided where the holes needed to be in the motherboard tray so that I could pass the SATA cables and the USB header cable from the front of the case through the mobo tray and used the same "drill two holes and connect them" method.
Next came the FUN part... grommeting all of the holes so that they was no wire chaffing and for looks. I had to cut some of the grommeting to make the turns in the small holes behind the mobo. I didn't care about looks there so it wasn't pretty. But, it serves its purpose. Then, I grommeted the larger holes which were 50 times harder because it had to look good! The rectangular hole was easy except for getting the "mitered" corners to look good. Then I grommeted the grill.
Next came the sleeving. I sleeved everything but the SATA connectors. I thought that the 90 degree AC Ryan connectors looked great as is. So all I did for them was take off the stupid stickers that said SATA.... DUH! The two rear fans' (one on the side of the case on the "plus II" option mount and the rear fan) leads were cut, sleeved, soldered and heat-shrunk together. They run from the connection of the two fans at the edge of the rear fan to the fan controller over 16 gauge wire. This is of course sleeved with black 3 pin connectors. I also sleeved the power switch, power led, and hdd led wiring and ran it up to the motherboard through a hole in the tray that was already there. I took all of the wires apart and used a drill to twist them into a helix for easier sleeving and heat shrinking. I also sleeved all of the fans together on each radiator to one 16 gauge wire per radiator(one radiator worth of fans per channel on the fan controller). So, I have 7 Sanyo Denki San Aces, 3 on first channel(bottom rad), two on second channel(top rad), and two on third channel(case fans). It is a slightly positive pressure setup because of the lower speed/flow fan in the power supply.
Then I realized that I had too many Sata cables to run them through the factory cutout from the mobo and had to enlarge that and grommet it.
Then all that was left to do was to enlarge the holes in the outer skin of the case that I had already drilled to accommodate the larger machine screws and mount everything.
SORRY for the long write up. But, I figured that since I didn't have pics that I needed to be thorough.
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2001
- Location
- Los Angeles
Very nice job there! There is one thing in particular that will keep me from sleeping at night though.... PLEASE change the direction of the fans on the top rad... you are drawing warmed case air through the rad - what you are essentially doing is HEATING the water with that rad... I have seen people report seeing 5C better when changing fan direction (you won't with the 2 rads but I bet it helps). Have that sucker draw fresh air in - it will keep the mobo and vid card cooler too.
Also - please use some sort of corrosion inhibitor! The GTX top is aluminum - yeah yeah I know it is military grade zinc cobalt and nickle plated but still, do yourself a favor. Pentosin G11 (the blue stuff) is what I have been using and I like it very much. Last thing, don't think that ANY additives will bring temps down, THEY WON'T
Again, you did a great job, don't see too many clean builds like that anymore.
Also - please use some sort of corrosion inhibitor! The GTX top is aluminum - yeah yeah I know it is military grade zinc cobalt and nickle plated but still, do yourself a favor. Pentosin G11 (the blue stuff) is what I have been using and I like it very much. Last thing, don't think that ANY additives will bring temps down, THEY WON'T
Again, you did a great job, don't see too many clean builds like that anymore.
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #30
Thanks nik! The only thing about changing the direction of the fans is that I won't have adequate exhaust. 5 intake fans and 3 exhaust if I change the other intake to exhaust. That seems like way too much positive pressure even with all of the holes in the case. I have run it completely open and the temps drop MAYBE 1degree C. If I can find some clear corrosion inhibitor I will run that. But, I don't want any color in the loop at all.
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2001
- Location
- Los Angeles
IMO better to have too much positive than negative... with negative dust gets sucked into everywhere. Trust me. Change the fans.eightballrj said:
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #32
Even with the case open and it not making any difference? If they are sucking in ambient when the case is open I can't see how reversing them would make any difference.
And I trust that plating. I don't see how a two stage plating could be harmed by water passing over it. I will be a rebel and stay with just distilled, haha.
And I trust that plating. I don't see how a two stage plating could be harmed by water passing over it. I will be a rebel and stay with just distilled, haha.
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2007
Thanks for the walk through . PICTURES NEXT TIME!
Ya, switch those fans so they are drawing air from the outside. You're taking all the inside air and pumping that through the radiators. Not good. With how much cooling you have, it might not make mush of a difference (maybe 1-2c) but the more you cool things the more this difference will be. If you were anywhere near your max heat dissipation you'd be able to tell a big difference I would think.
. PICTURES NEXT TIME!Ya, switch those fans so they are drawing air from the outside. You're taking all the inside air and pumping that through the radiators. Not good. With how much cooling you have, it might not make mush of a difference (maybe 1-2c) but the more you cool things the more this difference will be. If you were anywhere near your max heat dissipation you'd be able to tell a big difference I would think.
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #34
PearlJammzz said:Thanks for the walk through
Ya, switch those fans so they are drawing air from the outside. You're taking all the inside air and pumping that through the radiators. Not good. With how much cooling you have, it might not make mush of a difference (maybe 1-2c) but the more you cool things the more this difference will be. If you were anywhere near your max heat dissipation you'd be able to tell a big difference I would think.
Well, what I am saying is that I have run it with both case doors open and saw no appreciable difference in temps. I still might change them around but I really don't want to. It depends on how bored I am this weekend, haha.
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2007
Well I guess it also depends on the temp inside your case, which depends on the airflow of the case and how hard you are working it. Get the cpu/memory/vid card REAL hot (maybe 10x each test on max in 3dmark06) and record max temp, swap the fans, and try it again, see what cha get. I would be real interested in seeing the difference, it could be a decent amount...
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #36
Yeh, could be. I might do it this weekend... just to appease all of you, haha.
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2007
Do it, prove us wrong, please . Just make sure and heat it up for the tests! I really doubt you'll see a difference when the vid card and ram and everything are maxed for awhile as well.
. Just make sure and heat it up for the tests! I really doubt you'll see a difference when the vid card and ram and everything are maxed for awhile as well.
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #38
Well, I believe I found the problem. I had the computer shut down earlier and when I booted it I had the fans turned way down and they didn't start. So, I heard a gurgle... I had a HUGE bubble in my top rad(barbs facing down). After a little rotating and hose squeezing I now have loaded temps with core 0 at 48C and Core 1 at 51C. Idles still around 33-35. I still think that my ambients are pretty warmish. So, when my computer, tv, monitor, etc has been off for a while and the room has cooled I will test again. But, 49ish is much better than 57!
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2007
lol that will do it! Did you not bleed your system?
OP
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Location
- Missiskippi
- Thread Starter
- #40
Yeh, I bled it... I have done this a few times you know. I just didn't hear the bubble until then. When I heard it I knew exactly what it was. But, since my barbs are turned down. It takes a while for the bubbles to settle at the top and be able to be rebled and apparently I didn't wait long enough.
