Updated bios, installed SSD, keep getting "New cpu installed" message.

[i6pwr]

My Asus M49AGTD PRO USB3 MB still has the 1090T installed, never touched it. I changed the RAM, installed an 850 EVO SSD, running Win 7 64.

Every other time I restart it, I get the New CPU installed message, press F1 to serup, F2 to load defaults.

Current bios is 3029.

Any ideas?

I did not use the SSD install disc if that matters.

 

[RGone]

Have you done an 'actual' CMOS clear? Power supply unplugged from wall outlet.

RGone...

 

[i6pwr]

The order was:

Board moved to different case, unplugged for about a month.

Installed Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb 1600 ram.
Samsung SSD
ASUS dvd drive
Install psu

Once wired, loaded win
Changed graphics cards a few times
updated bios
changed graphics cards around a few more times
seems after the bios update I would get the messages for new cpu

Then I unplugged power cord but for maybe 15 sec.
reboots fine, maybe 2 or 3 times.

Also, this does seem to coincide with touching the front usb ports and it immediately restarts, I guess from static. I ground myself first but the front ports only work if the card reader is left plugged in and rebooted, not plugged in when already running....rear ports work fine.

I have to reload the DRAM values when the new cpu installed message flashes also.

 

[RGone]

The order was:

Board moved to different case, unplugged for about a month.

Installed Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb 1600 ram.
Samsung SSD
ASUS dvd drive
Install psu

Once wired, loaded win
Changed graphics cards a few times
updated bios
changed graphics cards around a few more times
seems after the bios update I would get the messages for new cpu

Then I unplugged power cord but for maybe 15 sec.
reboots fine, maybe 2 or 3 times.

Also, this does seem to coincide with touching the front usb ports and it immediately restarts, I guess from static. I ground myself first but the front ports only work if the card reader is left plugged in and rebooted, not plugged in when already running....rear ports work fine.

I have to reload the DRAM values when the new cpu installed message flashes also.

In all of those steps, I do not see a single clear CMOS as outlined in most mobo manuals.

In addition at first you did n0t say you changed the case as well as all the other parts. When a mobo has been put into a case and issues result it is always best to do a minimal build outside the case with mobo on an insulated surface to see if the problem goes away since mobos often are shorting to the case in some manner during the first install of mobo.

RGone...

 

[i6pwr]

Ok, I can go back and clear the CMOS. Im fairly certain I didn't do that per the manual. So the motherboard should be completely isolated from the case? I'm sure all the standoffs are there. I had some similar issues with front usb ports when the mb was in another case as well, that case however does fine with my ASROCK motherboard.

 

[RGone]

Well something related to the board that is giving problems, might be related to mounting holes to case even the other case. If there are n0 issues with the baord outside the case in minimum build...then the board itself is not bad maybe but gets wonky when it is sitting on the stand-offs.


RGone...

 

[i6pwr]

To update this thread, the positive and negative leads for the reset button were reversed. The colors of the wires should indicate polarity but red isn't always positive and black isn't always ground.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

To update this thread, the positive and negative leads for the reset button were reversed. The colors of the wires should indicate polarity but red isn't always positive and black isn't always ground.

Usually this doesn't matter because when you push the button, your simply closing the circuit. Same applies to the power button. The circuit is only closed as long as your finger stays on the button. So it's not a ground and a power lead, it's just two power leads open or closed.

 

[i6pwr]

Usually this doesn't matter because when you push the button, your simply closing the circuit. Same applies to the power button. The circuit is only closed as long as your finger stays on the button. So it's not a ground and a power lead, it's just two power leads open or closed.

Not really, this removes the case ground from the usb connector, resulting in a short when you touch it. You want the usb connector grounded.

Now that I think about it, the usb could have been backwards but I'm pretty sure it was the reset leads.

Before if I touched the usb terminal the pc would shut down, now it's working fine.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

What are you talking about?? The case isn't a ground at all.

If I needed a case to run my motherboard, I couldn't bench on a cardboard motherboard box.... just sayin.

There's no ground on the start or reset button. Your simply closing a circuit that's it. No case ground needed (not that there is one or needed)

Before if I touched the usb terminal the pc would shut down, now it's working fine.

If this happened to my board.... I'd RMA it.

 

[RGone]

I couldn't bench on a cardboard motherboard box.... just sayin.

There's no ground on the start or reset button. Your simply closing a circuit that's it. No case ground needed (not that there is one or needed)

You got that right S_B, I have my CHV-Z sitting on top of a DFI mobo box right now at 4.4GHz and not a case ground anywhere to be found. Hehehe.

RGone...

 

[ShrimpBrime]

You got that right S_B, I have my CHV-Z sitting on top of a DFI mobo box right now at 4.4GHz and not a case ground anywhere to be found. Hehehe.

RGone...

Oh you should slap that naked chip into that board for some fun. It should run extremely cool for you!!

 

[Mpegger]

What are you talking about?? The case isn't a ground at all.

The case can be a part of ground, and as such, components can be grounded to it. But it is not part of the voltage ground.

Have you checked the voltage of the battery for the motherboard? Could be the battery was weak when you got the board and is only now dropping down too low of a voltage. A good battery should read a little over 3.0V when in good condition. If its 2.9V or less, you should get a new battery.