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WC Pics, Peltier Accident, Refit, Too Hot?

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riprock

Registered
Joined
Dec 18, 2000
That tagline should cover it all! Here's a link to my water cooled setup. They're scanned film, so not great quality :( http://home.kscable.com/prayer/comp1.html

Everything was working great:
XP1800 at 147/1691 stable
Dragon Plus/512 PC2100
Maze 2-2 w/2 120W pelts
Eheim 1048 1/2" tubing Windsheild Fluid/water wetter
'87 Chevette Heater core/Homemade shroud/YS Tech 125CFM
Homemade Resevoir (4x4x4 underground elec box)
Lots of neoprene, dielectric grease, conformal coating, and silicone :)

Stupid me was switching a NIC to another slot and forgot to plug the water pump back in :( My Maze2-2 actually came apart - the pelts got it so hot it melted the solder. I wept softly...

I got my two new blocks today, installed the Maze2, got home from work and filled with water and started it up... seems like everything's fine: At least the CPU works!!! I also got another Maze2-2 for when I'm ready to go with pelts again!

QUESTION: I ran dist.net for 10 minutes to get the CPU nice and warm. My water temp got up to 23C and the probe I have touching the slug's side got up to 33C (while MoboMon recorded Die temp at 44C - we all know that's likely incorrect). IS 33C for a probe touching the side of the cpu slug/die too hot while under load???
 
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From what I've learned in the last week I been reading about this stuff, 33c is perfectly fine for load or idle.
Question: Where did you get the temp probe to put on the cpu? I wanna get one myself so I can see the real temps.
 
NuebieN said:
From what I've learned in the last week I been reading about this stuff, 33c is perfectly fine for load or idle.
Question: Where did you get the temp probe to put on the cpu? I wanna get one myself so I can see the real temps.

most ppl around here use a DD5
there good, but the thin temp probs have to but cut a lil to fit under a water block right.. i posted my 1900+ at 239c for bout 2secs till i nearly ripped the power button out.. but im gonna try and get rid of it.. wasnt worth tthe 42bucks IMO.. but some really like it..
 
http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&Product_Code=5220

I now have a 4x4x2 elec box (so I can get my soundcard in a slot - was having IRQ probs - The Dragon+ puts it's onboard NIC and Sound on the same IRQ as the Vid Card). The left probe is in the box, in the water coming out of the waterblock, and the right probe is electrical taped (a little piece) to the CPU circuit board to hold it against the SIDE of the slug. That's the big reason I was asking, since it's only against the side..., my real temp is probably a few degrees celcius higher than what it's resgiatering.

The temp registers only in Celcius and I dunno if it goes below 0c.
 
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Update

Just wanted to update my last posting in February. For info about my system check the first message in this thread - I took the pictures that are linked to down a long time ago :|

I've been running this same system 24/7 and it's still working great. The water/washerfluid/waterwetter splooshing all over didn't injure anything. Coating my mobo with Fin-L-Kote did wonders.

Not running pelts again... at least, not yet!

Using temp probes and digital readout

Full load:
Ambient temp - 26c
Case Temp - 27c
Die temp - 35c
 
thats to bad to see stuff like that happen. you wouldnt happen to have that destroyed maze 2-2 sill would you???? also those temps are pretty nice!
 
what is the point of running those pelts i mean you could either run just plain water or medium end air cooling and get a better overclock with a $50 1600+ without it being nearly as dangerous
 
ssjwizard - nope, I trashed the block :( I was too aggravated with it and myself!

emericana - you're missing at least one reason many of us overclock: for the challenge! If it was just about getting the fastest speed then I'd just buy a faster processor.

I got to rip apart my case, hunt down a 87 Chevette heater core, find the right tubing, make my own resevoir, and fit it all inside a stock antec SOHO case! That's priceless! ;)
 
Just checking back in. I've pretty much done nothing with my setup since I built this last system described in this thread. RL stuff, y'know :)

It's still running perfect. Using water/wiper fluid/water wetter still and no corrosion. The only metal used in the system is copper... plus whatever solder holds the Danger Den water block together of course. Everything else is plastic.

I've since added a line to MBM to shut down my system if things get to hot... ie: my eheim pump shuts down.

Just thought I'd update for all those interested.
 
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