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waterblock in development

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iNSiGMA

Member
Joined
May 22, 2003
Location
Ohio, USA
Here is this block I made. It still needs to be filed, sanded, cleaned, lapped, etc.. but this is a basic dry setup of how it should end up looking. Now, if you see, there allot of these pillars sticking up... my concern is that this block may be too restrictive.

I have seen many blocks that looked restrictive like this one before and they have worked...

Anyway, do you guys have any thoughts on my design here?

waterblock1.jpg


This post has been edited/modified:

Here are the additional pictures...
bllocks2.JPG

bolluks2.JPG

bolluks3.JPG

bolluks4.JPG
 
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looks really good! you might want to cut out the material under the barbs.. Also, youll probably want to make a new top. the barbs are too close to the outsides of the block. Not enough room to seal.

Jon
 
altec said:
That isn't the best of pictures, I can barely make the ting out...got a clearer one?

I had to downgrade the quality because it was like 260kb!
I'll edit the first post and post a second one, the best I can take.

JFettig said:
looks really good! you might want to cut out the material under the barbs.. Also, youll probably want to make a new top. the barbs are too close to the outsides of the block. Not enough room to seal.

Jon

There is no metal under the barbs. I'm gonna have to post differnt pictures, one with the top off, i guess this one won't do.
 
Put an inlet barb in the middle and two more exits, one at each corner:D. My thoughts for this design. Other than that more information is needed like how thick is the thinnest part of the baseplate?
 
I have edited the first post, please see it for new pictures

Remember, I have not sanded, polished, filed, or finished this block yet..

gone_fishin said:
Put an inlet barb in the middle and two more exits, one at each corner:D. My thoughts for this design. Other than that more information is needed like how thick is the thinnest part of the baseplate?

Funny. I'm ok. But I didn't get too scientific with it, I really don't know how thick is the thinnest part of the baseplate is... eek! I wanted to make sure I didn't go though the base and render the block useless but then again, I do go pretty deep... Hold on.. lemme measure, if I can...

Well from what I have gathered, the passages are ~1/4" deep leaving anther 1/4" of solid base leftover. But that varys from area to area... eek!.. is that too much solid base? Now that i've started thinking, I probably should have 1/8" solid base.. or as thin as possible... damnit! :mad:

How about I just thin the area in the middle, directly above the core, and keep the rest as is? (crap! here I go half-assing the job)

pokpok said:
are those chrome barbs? whred you get them?
Yes, they are crome. I purchased them from BECOOLING - thats aquastealth.com

Also, youll probably want to make a new top. the barbs are too close to the outsides of the block. Not enough room to seal.
I know what you mean, but I was planning to seal it with some JBWELD, so as long as the 2 surfaces contact, I can JBWELD them together.. Also, I would do both the outside edge and top parameter surface. If you don't understand what I mean, thats fine - I'm confident that it will seal just fine using JBWELD :) - not even trival about it.
 
That's a nice #Rotor style block there. Perhaps you should go deeper in your holes. Are you using a hand drill or a press? Either way, A good way of telling how deep to go is to use some tape or even a permanent marker on the bit at the right depth.
 
Thats what I did, I used tape on the drill bit. The holes are deep, approximatley 1/4" deep, thats where I marked the bits, so...

Anyway, just take it as 1/4" deep water channels and the other 1/4" being solid. I will not be going deeper on any holes at this point, its past that part of the game + I could slip up and put a hole right thru the block, I already did but since it is not near the center I can patch it up with JBWELD, then sand the the entire thing down.
 
actually a 1/4" base on that block just might perform really well. Its really hard to say though. If the base wasnt that thick, the heat would not spread throughout most of the block. the way you have it, the heat should spread pretty far.


Jon
 
Hey, I have been sanding the base, and it gets boring and tiresom... is it ok if I use an electric sander on it, to speed up the process. I'm not tring to rush, but it seems like I'm not getting the niks and scratches out, I was using 85grit (I think) paper too!
 
You'll run the risk of making your base less flat. I assume you're using a piece of glass under your work.
 
Shroomer said:
You'll run the risk of making your base less flat. I assume you're using a piece of glass under your work.

How do I run the risk of making the base less-flat by using an electric sander?

and what do you mean about me using a piece of glass under my work?

Please explain
 
If your sander has a warped base, then your block will take on the contour of the base. About the flattest thing a normal person can come by easily is a thick piece of glass. You also have to lap on something pretty close to flat too to prevent any flexing of the glass. I'm sure it's possible to get good results with other methods, but this one has proven itself time and time again.

I have heard of people using power sanders, but I just think it might be risky.
 
Yeah, well I'm starting to think I just need new sandpaper and it will remove the niks...

How exactly would I use the glass to make sure the heatsink ends up flat?
 
It takes a long time. Sanding is the worst part of any waterblock. Although, if you take it to a mirror finish (not required) it's also very satisfying.

Try wet sanding. You need paper that can handle it, but you use less paper because you basically wash out the copper dust from the paper every so often.
 
Yeah, I know about wetsanding. I would move to that as I moved to higher grits, I'll see if I can't get some low grit wet paper...

And yes, I do agree, sanding is the worst part of making this waterblock, but with the right stuff, it can be quickly done.
 
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