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Rig pics, 3/4" PVC, 2 Rads. Please look!

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UberBlue

Completely NUTS
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Location
Huffing Water Wetter
My writing skills are pretty limited. I'll try to get it out the best I can. If somethings not clear, just ask, and please do. I would like to get a question from everyone that views this post. This rig has taken up most of my free time for the past six months.

Since I've got a Cascade on the way, I figured there's no reason for 3/4" piping.

I originaly desinged this system for flow with a MCW462-UH, 2 BIX rads, and a Quiet one pump.

The Rads originaly were in parrallel, but I couldn't fit in two optical drives. I thought that going in series was going to kill my temps but it helped, I noticed a 2C drop.

Plumbing this thing was a total pain in the BUTT! Trying to get everything to line up perfect was pretty nerve wracking.

After a few weeksI noticed that the NB was getting really freakin hot, so I added a D-TEK Z-chip NB block. Putting it in required fabricating some new parts from PVC to plumb it in parrallel with the rest of the loop. I put a BIX micro after the NB block to dump any heat before it got back to the main loop. While I was at it I added a sight glass along the hard drive cage.

Back-left-lgk-down-FL.jpg


Full-side-view-Fl..jpg


Lower-front.jpg


MVC-006F.jpg


pump-and-sm.-RAD.jpg


Top-looking-back.jpg
 
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Over the power supply an CD - ROM's. The white stips under the RADS are shrouds made from 1/2" strip styrene

MVC-009F.jpg
 
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sandman001,

It is... I was hoping that when I got my A7N8X, the socket orientation was the same as an A7V333. It wasn't. IT sucked.
 
WejRepus said:
um, i am a little confused (forgive me)...
could you just quickly describe your flow pattern?

You're probably confused by that 't' fitting on the bottom as I was. I believe the 't' part that goes up is a bleed tube. The pump's outflow looks like it's hidden behind the cables and leads up towards the radiators on the top.

rad1 ----> rad2 -----> swiftechblock ------> 't' line -----> pump ----> rinse and repeat
 
Very VERY nice!

I like seeing others' use of alternative tubing/piping in systems.
I am using 1/2" ID copper tube in my main rig and I am pretty pleased with the results...
A bit harder to cahnge components out but since I use vinyl tube between copper sections as the connector it isn't too bad.

I see a few unions in the system: I am guessing they are for breakdown so you can change things out?

Next question: how did you do the block and rad connections? I can't see past the mass of white PVC! :D
 
Very creative! I love seeing full conversion projects like this all completed. It's obvious you put a lot of planning into this beast of a cooler, and it turned out wonderfully. Mad cong.
 
rogerdugans,

I have a big roll of soft copper tubing under the desk, as I was once toying with the idea to. I think it's harder to work with than PVC.


I see a few unions in the system: I am guessing they are for breakdown so you can change things out?

That's exactly right. This would be next to impossible to do without them.

how did you do the block and rad connections?

For the Rads, I noticed that 1/2' vinyl and 1/2" PVC have the same OD. I roughed up the 1/2" inside of a 3/4"->1/2" reducer, did the same to outside of a 1" piece of 1/2" vinyl tubing, slathered with silicone and presto.

For the WB.. that was easy. 3/4" slip to 1/2" MPT adapters. Took the Dremel to them and reamed em out super thin to maximize ID. Wound up snaping a few of them off putting them in the block. Those are also the last two connections that got glued. Mounted the WB to the MOBO, installed the MOBO in the case, then glued in the pipes to make sure the WB would seat properly.
 
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