big trouble... need help fast

setup is dtek whitewater, swiftech h20-120 kit.

the loop:
fill & bleed discharge to pump inlet->pump discharge to cpu cooler inlet->cpu cooler discharge to radiator inlet->radiator discharge to fill & bleed inlet

prime the system, then turn it on.. starts pumping slowly for a few seconds.. see air bubbles.. close and open the main valve a few times.. and i see the water entering the block through the discharge .. wtf?

i then hear the pump emit a small whine.. shut it off quickly... bleed the system as best i can.. prime it again.. and try again.. same thing.

then i switch the radiator tubes.. starts pumping very slowly for a bit.. then stops.. same deal with water block (enter through outer)... then i hear the pump crunch for like a second.. quickly shut it off (caught it after a second).

what did i do wrong? i triple checked all connections.. loop is sealed.. checked 3 times

what did i do wrong? and did i destroy the pump?

please help.. thx.

edit: i used 1/2" OD on the WW 1/2" ID barbs.. it fits very nicely (had to warm it up and force it on a bit). is this messing everything up? that doesnt make any sense though..

Try ditching the FB all together and set up a t line. After you do that, see what happens.

My guess is that you have the valves on the FnB set in such a way, as to restrict flow (possibly completely).

Check the documentation, or swap it for a T as Pat suggested.

just turned it back on and used what i thought was fill as discharge, and bleed as fill on the F&B kit. the flow is correct.. and it pumps for like 2 seconds.. then just stops.

swap that with a tline? u think that would do it?

this is how i am doing it..

prime: close main valve, open both in and out on F&B. then put in tube to bottle (using fluuid xp+), then suck on discharge.. suck until liquid starts to come out of discharge.. loop must be primed.

then turn it on.. open main valve for like 3 seconds.. and it starts flowing.. then stops.. close main valve.. and no activity.

Check if you have any pump discharge at all by using just an inlet and outlet tube from the pump into a bucket. Usual suck up the fluid to prime the pump then with thumb over discharge tube end put discharge tube into bucket turn on and watch for rate of discharge from pump. No return water from discharge= dead pump.

edit: i used 1/2" OD on the WW 1/2" ID barbs.. it fits very nicely (had to warm it up and force it on a bit). is this messing everything up? that doesnt make any sense though..

Click to expand...

Most likely not.

Could you post a pic of the isntructions for setting up the F&B kit.

Also...make sure most (as much as you can) air is out befor you turn on the pump.
Secondly have all parts of the loop contain water before running the pump.

They have the instructions over at swiftnets.com . They could just ne instructions for the rad though I don't remember. Do what Java said to see if it is the pump. I'll check your set up against mine to make sure you have it right. EDIT- Oh and that pump noise is normal so don't worry about that.

i have swifteck try running the inlet and outlet in to a picher and then off the curicaning valve the water should run throught ok ,, try laying the comp on it`s back hope this help`s ,, i changed my fb valve sorry about the pic [ i`m working on the 90`s replace w/ t`s ]

Holy Restrictive Fittings Batman!!!!

You sir may be actually reaching your pump's maximum head level, however I don't know the exact specs of the Mc600, so it could be something else. But even if it is you need to get rid of all those connectors and 90degree elbows(12, ouch)

I can't even follow a locical flow path there...

One thing, and this may be obvious so I am not intending on offending anyone by it being new to WCing myself but..


Each and every one of those 90 degree fittings is putting backpressure on your flow. With the amount of 90 degree fittings I see that system is one huge bottleneck putting backpressure on your pump.

I know those fittings probably set you back a fair amount but...

I would sincerely consider getting rid of most of the 90 degree fittings in your system. For that matter disconnect your waterblocks and run a simple pump>>radiator>>T-line/Reservoir setup and check how the flow is then as a simple test loop. If that is good setup your system again removing as many of those 90 degree fittings as possible.

I cant definitely say its those fittings but I know beyond the shadow of a doubt there are so many choke points in that system its gotta be hurting the pumps ability to push fluid through the system.

I would sincerely consider using a Y connector when you can get away with it or better yet no connector at all. It may require a more flexible tubing to make those turns but in the long run your flow in increase dramatically. Yep, its also sort of a pain in the keister to get all those tubing bends inside a tight case but well well worth it.

Another thing to note is that some of those couplers actually look to be reducing your flow from the 1/2"ID (guessing here) of the tubing down to 3/8" ID for the first connector to 1/4" ID for the additional coupler. That reduction in flow path amounts to basically a 75% restriction of flow when passing from your tubing to the secondary couplings. Stack on top of that the turbulence caused by those fittings...

Um this is not teddy's thread guys

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=337682

pershot:

Did you try running it for a while, I see you turned it off every time you heard noise.... It makes alot of noise when bleeding a system until the air gets out. I dont know how the FnB is supposed to be setup but I am guessing that your pump is simply airlocked.

Any FnB users want to add some tips?