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Hilighter vs. UV adds.

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Surreal

'Surreal please contact Krag ASAP'
Joined
Jun 23, 2003
Location
Virginia, USA
Hi

I have a nice green hilighter and green UV additive.

Which will be better for color. (no uv lights)

Which will be better for color. (UV lights)


I am assuming after testing both that the adds will give a good green color w/out uv lights. Will the color last 6months? For some reason I think it has faded in my other systems.

-S
 
no clue whether it fades, but I hear under UV some highlighters(I’ve only heard of yellow ones) glow A LOT brighter than die. Just dip the core of the highlighter in the water, don't leave it in there fore ever.
 
I dont know about dye, I havent personally used it but I have seen pics and have heard of it fading.

I havent used highlighter long enough to test it, but for the couple months I did use it it was extremely bright and lasted. much better color than I have seen in dyes

Jon
 
You take the cap off the highliter, this is not the normal cap that is easy to remove, but on that is normally on the back of the highliter. (sometimes its a PITA to remove) once that is gone there is a little thing i will call the "core" Its a bunch of ink-laden fiber that feeds the tip of the highliter. It will fall out if you turn the highliter upside down after the cap is off(might take a bit of work, sometimes it doesn't like to come out but it will) take that bit and hold it like 1cm into the water. The ink will come out in mass and colour the water. When you have enough colour remove the core and put it back in the highlighter, you do not want to leave that inside your water cooling rig as it will eventually dissolve and get fibrous material every ware in the system.


Things to remember: You can always add more latter, can’t remove it. So, go slowly and take your time.
 
awe, just add it all:) it looks good with an entire highligher:p

What I did the first time wastook a little paper cup with a little water and dipped it in there, and wow that turns color fast and thick, then I added that to my water.

Jon
 
only the yellows glow though, right, since yellow highliters are the only ones that seem to actually shine when hilighting.?
 
dunno, I think so. UV is not my area. I only do a little eyecandy on my computer. A blue LED or two is my limit normally. I tend to look at fancy lighting in computers as a statment of. "I lack everything else, so i will make it up in performace." But that is when its to the extreem.
 
I used the Sanford Accent Highlighter series and its still glowing strong after 3 weeks.

Its not necessary to even remove the ink core to be honest. Just dip the writing end in the water for a while. Then cap it, shake it a bit, and repeat.

Here is a link to my ever so blurry pic of how it looks after all is said and done...yep, the system is still messy as I havent gotten around to the wire management yet ;P

UV Highlighter Yellow in my cooling loop

Couple of cautions here.

1. Make sure its the non-toxic type.
2. Make sure its not the 'paint' type of highlighter
3. Do NOT leave the fiber ink core in your res or elsewhere. Over time it will break down sending fibers through your loop. That is a bad thing.

The only one I have tested with no bad results so far is the Sanford Major Accent Highlighter

I would suggest testing your fluid before putting it into the loop. Simply use a clean plastic container and then add the highlighter ink until its the desired brightness. Yellow is the only one that I have found after trying Yellow, Pink/Red, Blue, and Green to actually glow significantly. The others seem much less UV reactive. This only stands for the Sanford line however, I have not tried others.

*note- the yellow highlighter fluid in my loop glows a greenish color just for info.
 
Last edited:
philippmike said:
My case has alot of blue and silver...
Has anyone tried a blue Highliter?

Courtesy of r4fo's link-
soja said:
Blue, green, and orange hi-lighters barely glow. Yellow is brightest and pink is mild. If you want a nice blue glow try RIT brightener and whitener. About a capful and you get a intense indigo like glow.
 
You mean just add the brightner and whitener to the UV highliter water or add blue dye then the brightner and whitener?
 
The brightner and whitener will not change the normal color of the water itself that much. It will however yield a fairly bright blue color under UV light.

Just water + RIT brightner and whitener. No need for the highlighter ink.
 
np.

Understand that the brightner and whitener suggestion I passed along is not one I have tried. The RIT product is little more than a special blue dye to cover the yellow color that happens as clothes age. In other words its basically a dye. It should work fine, as a matter of fact I am going to try it tonight BUT I cannot say I have personally tried it as of yet.

Sure hope it works, already tried multiple products to generate a nice blue color with poor results. Will post back again tomorrow on appearance. It will take several weeks...heck even months to verify any negative effects on corrosion although I doubt we should see any problems.
 
I have a bottle of Rit Whitener & Brightener, but I'm still a bit reluctant to use it because in addition to the dye it contains some detergent in the form of "nonionic surfactants". Then again, maybe this will generate a positive effect in terms of being biocidal and decreasing the surface tension of water, similar to Water Wetter. Anybody has any thoughts on this?
 
Being non-ionic it should have little if any reaction with the metals in a loop. As to its effects on cooling it once again should have very little impact in the ratios soja apparently used which was about 1/2 to 1 'capfull's for an entire loop. This would boil down to around a 1% or less solution. This will most probably have less effect on cooling than the anti-freeze that many people use.

The real question I think is will it create foaming in a loop which makes it hard to bleed. If not then its basically a water soluble dye with a mild non-corrosive detergent which shouldnt cause many problems.

The down side is without running this through a loop for a substancial amount of time its true effects (not guesstimates) on corrosion is beyond me to determine.
 
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