Re-doing my loop, couple questions.

aligoonbaba · Jan 2, 2007

I've decided to take my '77 Bonny out of it's little shoebox rig I have (great temps though =P ) and making a cleaner look mounting it ontop of the case. My question is abotu overall pump placement. Should I put it ontop of the case the rad, or at the bottom? Is the verticle clime going to kill my flow? Any thoughts on this is greatly appreciated, thanks.

I think my pump is a swiftech mcp 650...can't remember exactly. I'll try and dig up the exact model.

natewildes · Jan 2, 2007

It doesn't really matter whether it's on the top or bottom, so long as you're using the least amount of tubing possible. If you can use less by putting it on top, put it on top, and vice versa. It will probably be a lot easier to have the pump on the inside, then you can have the radiator belly-down, with the tubing going right into the case.

aligoonbaba · Jan 3, 2007

Kinda curious, without being able to test the flow of my loop, how much tubing would you say is too much tubing? My new loop idea does run a little more tubing, but it keeps things a little cleaner, and easier to move my case around. How much do you think it would effect temps?

Captain Slug · Jan 3, 2007

aligoonbaba said:
How much do you think it would effect temps?

Unless you're adding an extra 15 feet you won't be noticing any temperature differences.

Three rules to remember

+ Order of components affects nothing. Setup the tubing in an order that involves less tubing and wider gentler curves.
+ T-lines or reservoirs should be as close to the pump inlet as possible to facilitate efficient bleeding.
+ Orienting the radiator so that the barbs are the highest point will help to prevent trapped air bubbles.

aligoonbaba · Jan 3, 2007

About the barbs being at the highest point. Does this mean with the rad being mounted on the top of the case, having the barbs face down wouldn't be as good oppose to having them pointing up? Or having the rad simply at the highest point in the loop?

batboy · Jan 3, 2007

Having the barbs facing up will simplify bleeding air, but you can still mount the barbs facing down. It will just require a bit more effort to bleed it. Like maybe leaving the rad loose at first so you can turn it, tilt it, shake it, etc. Then secure it adter bleeding is complete.

Immortal_Hero · Jan 3, 2007

If you mount it on top with the barbs facing the back of the case simply start up the loop and while bleeding tip the case foreward to help the air get out of the rad. It will all eventually work out... It can sometimes take even a week to get all the little bubbles out of the rad. Usually a few hours will get it bled pretty well. I know with my last setup and a T line it took about 4 hours to totally bleed. With a res I would expect it to take much less time.

aligoonbaba · Jan 3, 2007

Perfect, thanks for the input guys. One other thing, while bleeding, uncap the t-line correct? I think I did this last time I bled my system, I just can't remember if it matters much. I was in such a rush to get the thing cranked up, I didn't take my time setting it up how I really wanted to.

Immortal_Hero · Jan 3, 2007

You can cap it but I think it will go faster uncapped.

Re-doing my loop, couple questions.

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