Eheim 1260 res mod - PICS

Well, this is going to be my new radbox. Started this project a while back, and after some of the input on these and other forums, decided to mount the pump directly onto the res, so as not to restrict the inlet.

Its an Eheim 1260 ( new 1060 ) 2200 l/h 3.7 metre head... as you can see, kinda large.

All housed in a MIDI tower, I have an identical second case to put the PC in, with some manifolds to split the flow.



Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

It will eventually look something like this, I have a very large rad with 2 120mm 240V AC fans on it, with a shroud, which will mount to the front, as shown in this diagram.



Obviously, hot and cold water is red and blue on the diagram.

Any details about the reservoir?
Making pics etc

The res is a 2 litre juice jug from Asda, cost about 70p

Just drilled holes in it and cut off the handle.

That is a great mod for the intake! This is the best thing you can do to the suction side of the pump! What size barbs are you using? The look small?

sadly, 1/2"

Only looks small because the pump is the size of a small horse

Basically, I have to do it like this, because all my blocks are modelled on 1/2" pipe.

If and when I redo this radbox, i'll change over to 1" pipe into the CPU block, then split into 4, much the same as bladerunner.

I figure that i'm probably reducing flow by a good 20-30% by restricting the outlet to 1/2", however, should still get some good results, this pump is a beast.

GTA said:

sadly, 1/2"

Only looks small because the pump is the size of a small horse

Basically, I have to do it like this, because all my blocks are modelled on 1/2" pipe.

If and when I redo this radbox, i'll change over to 1" pipe into the CPU block, then split into 4, much the same as bladerunner.

I figure that i'm probably reducing flow by a good 20-30% by restricting the outlet to 1/2", however, should still get some good results, this pump is a beast.

Click to expand...

Yeah the barbs do look small... I have a similar pump, the Iwaki MD-15R, it has fixed 1/2" barbs! 3.4Meter head, and only consumes 30W of power. And, it is the size of a 1250. Here is a pic:

They sound like good pumps, but as far as I know, they arn't available in the UK, and also cost a small fortune, and besides, I've got a lot of trust for Eheim, my 1048 has taken a lot of hammer over the time i've been watercooled, and stiull runs like a dream 24/7 with no noise. When I'm trusting £1000 of PC to a pump, I wanna go with what I know and trust, just my opinion.

On a side note, I just fitted the radbox together totally for the first time, and the seal around the pump/res join leaked


I was less than impressed, so I removed the res from the pump, cleaned it up and resealed.

However, whereas before I was only using silicone bathroom sealant, which I wanted to use because it was slightly flexible, I'm now using aryldite, and LOTS of it

I know its not designed for constant submersion, but I've used it under constant submersion to attach barbs to a rad before, and said rad is still going strong with no leaks over 18 months later, so i'm not too worried. My friend uses the same stuff to seal some of his blocks, and has never had an issue.

Sooooooo, basically, leave it for about 48-72 hours, and then try again. ( Its supposed to dry in 4 hours, but i've applied a very thick layer, and I want it to cure completely before I pour water all over it )

I'll keep you updated.

PS, Nikhsub, why only a watercooled CPU? what about NB, HDDs and GFX?

GTA said:

...PS, Nikhsub, why only a watercooled CPU? what about NB, HDDs and GFX?

Click to expand...

I don't have a rockin vid card so no need. All the others are a waste of time, energy, money and flow IMO. I have a crystal orb on the NB and it does fine and is silent. My HD's never get above 32C so no need there. I like to keep all the cooling power for the CPU where it is most needed. I have 300 quiet CFM's of airflow through my case.

large

That is one big res, you won't have to worry about filling the system for a little while. Looks pretty good.

nikhsub1 said:

I don't have a rockin vid card so no need. All the others are a waste of time, energy, money and flow IMO. I have a crystal orb on the NB and it does fine and is silent. My HD's never get above 32C so no need there. I like to keep all the cooling power for the CPU where it is most needed. I have 300 quiet CFM's of airflow through my case.

Click to expand...

There's no way 300 cfms in gonna be quiet!

I watercool for silence anyway, which was why I was wondering about your setup, you could easily handle a load more blocks with not a huge rise in CPU temp, especially with your magic pump.

And its not expensive, you could make your own blocks.

@Nickhsub1

My WB has 1/2 od barbs and im usimg 1/2 OD tubing
Inserting the 1/2 tubing in the outlet of the eheim 1250 3/8 barb was not that difficult.
Do you think i will restrict flow if i use 1/2 OD barbs on the Heatercore?

@GTA
300cfm is not that much
Just 2 of these on the rad and below PSU should do it
Papst 4412FGL 120mm Fan (4 pin) (FG-005-PA)
- CFM = 53.3 cfm
- RPM = 1600
- dBA = 26
- Dimensions = 120x120x25

Thats just 112dba,considering at the moment my Coolermaster HHC-001 makes 50dba with an 80mm fan

Beside that il'be using a Zalman ZM80-HP Silent Heat pipe VGA cooler (SY-003-ZA) on my Radeon9700
I think adding a wateblock to a gfx card chipset restricts flow
Im watercooling just to reduce noise,hear good music without having the volume set to 80% and myself think