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DIY waterblock, leak prevention ?'s

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pokpok

Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
ok please excuse my paint skills :)

wbthing


the red part is where the pattern of the block will be drilled, the black part is the place where i would drill holes for the motherboard screws

since i dont have a mill, putting an oring will be pretty hard for me.

the luctite will be the same size as the copper, like tc4, maze 3...etc

i know i should goop the perimeterof the block but what about inside it?

i think that if i dont water proof the perimeter of the red area. it will it will leak into the area of the mobo screws and the water may run intbetween the hole and the screw and wet my whole system! is it even possilbe to have this area leak?

TIA guys :)
 
i was thinking of trying that but.. wouldnt the water creep out of the mobo holes still?
 
if igoop the perimiter. will it squeeze out onto the pattern? or should i wate for it to dry. then screw the top and bottom of the block together?
 
the goop can act like an o ring when its dried right?

or is it supposed to be applied directly on the surface you plan on sealing?

hmm...
 
wow, i'm surprised you haven't been answered yet. Just run a bead of "goop" (silicone works fine) around the entire top of the base. make sure there is sealant around the entire red area. Then attach your top with screws, let dry, and leak test. If it leaks, take it off, scrape off the silicone, and try again.

I too would recommend a metal top. Much less worries about cracking.
 
If you decide to do the solder thing, just buy thin solder, lay it down around the red area and between the holes, put the top on, heat it up to melt the solder, and there ya go
 
with the soder can i just use an electric one...or do i need a torch?

NeoMoses said:
wow, i'm surprised you haven't been answered yet. Just run a bead of "goop" (silicone works fine) around the entire top of the base. make sure there is sealant around the entire red area. Then attach your top with screws, let dry, and leak test. If it leaks, take it off, scrape off the silicone, and try again.

I too would recommend a metal top. Much less worries about cracking.

ok i goop everything outisde of the red, the screw it together and let it dry. but when i screw it down wont it kinda get squeezed into the red area?

or should i wait for it to dry, then screw the block together?
 
for soldering, it covers all surface you put flux on, so if you would flux all the surface you want bonded(what the solder can reach) basicly around the channels or holes. then solder it, it would not leak, it does not make a bead on the edge like welding, its different.

or you could drill and tap holes to mount the top to the base and use silicone to seal it up.
 
ok but...wont sealing it squish the goop/silicone...and make it really flat and make it squeeze out of the edges or into the wb pattern?
 
yes, only if you gob it on, what you do is put a little bead around the ege, then smooth it out wiht an exacto knife, then seal it. some does squirt in but not much. just very very little.
 
alright cool, ive never used goop or silicon...they are removable as neomoses said right :)
 
Hey, Privet! Kak dela?
Don't worry...use goop it's the best...u can try as many times as u like untill u get it right...
yes it gets inside alittle but it all depends on what type of block u r making....if u making WW clone sort of thing then u gotta be carefull u don't wanna waste the surface area...but if u use #Rotor's desing or smth else less critical to surface are then it's ok...
play around see what u get....
good luck...show us some pics when u r done...
 
will do :)

what is the diffrence between silicone and goop? i have a caulking tube of slicone here. ive never used goop to seal anythign. in terms of strength: its ability to stick on the surfaece and sealing..which is better?
 
ok 1 more question

ok i know when u thread plexi that itl make micro cracks...and when u put the barb in....more cracks. if i were to use nylon fittings, i would probably reduce the amount and depth of cracks right?
 
it's not that you would reduce the depth ....
see when you screw brass bard it's very solid and moves the sides of plexi apart creating cracks. but if u use nylon or other plastic it just colapses alittle...since plexi is much harder compared to it....
it doesn't mean that you barbs will collapse it just means that they have a range of flexibility that is acceptable....because of the same reason they hold less securely and more likely to breake off the thread....
i would suggest using LEXAN and brass fittings....lexan is more expensive but u can't crack it....and brass fittings hold more securely...
i tried....u can bend it back and forth and it's not breaking...:)good luck
 
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