- Joined
- Dec 12, 2002
- Location
- Alta Loma, CA
I want to strip the ugly factory paint off my computer case doors. I want to go for the bare steel look. Is there an easy way? Like letting it soak in acetone or something?
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Stripping factory case paint?
- Thread starter FACTION95Si
- Start date
- Joined
- May 28, 2003
You can find paint stripper at most hardware stores. You definitely want to do this outside as the fumes can kill you. Make sure you get stuff to take paint off metal.
After you get the paint off, you should at least put a clear coat on the bare metal unless you like rust.
-Bobby
After you get the paint off, you should at least put a clear coat on the bare metal unless you like rust.
-Bobby
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2002
- Location
- not here anymore thats for sure
Forget it. (don't think you were serious anyway "or something")
#1 Even the cheapest cases are painted very nicely. The enamel will not come off with any chemical you can buy in a retail chain.
#2 You can only take it off with sandpaper/wire brush. Good luck getting results that will be uniform. It will not look even near as good as factory stainless steel prodcuts.
#1 Even the cheapest cases are painted very nicely. The enamel will not come off with any chemical you can buy in a retail chain.
#2 You can only take it off with sandpaper/wire brush. Good luck getting results that will be uniform. It will not look even near as good as factory stainless steel prodcuts.
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2002
SevenSixTwo said:
Paint must be a remarkably different thing on your planet than mine. Chemical paint strippers are readily available, and will lift light duty paint like that on computer cases easily. The paint on computer cases isn't even tough, try baked epoxy-based paints if you want it to even be a challenge.
The aeresol gasket removers sold at auto parts stores are essentially the same thing as paint strippers. They will also boil the paint off a case in nothing flat.
Do excercise care with these powerful chemicals. It can be a real experience to get a bit of it on your skin, much less in your eye. There are a new wave of less caustic strippers out now, I haven't used them to see if they are as brutally effective as the old-school types. Home depot has one of the less dangerous types (a citrus based product) on their website, and I assume on the shelf at their stores as well.
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2002
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- not here anymore thats for sure
All the cases I come across were exactly that, baked on. Solvents would barely start to dissolve it. It would need to be dipped and left in solvent to get anywhere. And even then it would leave an ugly metal finish with paint still stuck in all the surface imperfections. It would need to be brushed to look metal anyway.
Your mileage may vary as they say. Your case, mock it up
Your mileage may vary as they say. Your case, mock it up
OP
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2002
- Location
- Alta Loma, CA
- Thread Starter
- #6
So Larva I have some carb cleaner out in the garage would that take the paint off? I just need to remove it off the doors and top lid panel. If the carb cleaner doesn't work Ill take a spin down to home depot to buy some paint remover.
Why strip it totally off? That's a primer coat that you can't buy, so I just sanded mine down with 120 grit and then 400 grit wet/dry, cleaned, sprayed my paint like normal. It comes out beautiful, and won't chip off. You also don't have to pony up the extra money for primer.
If the chemical stuff works, great. But if it don't, power sander!
And chemical strippers do have a tough time with some powder coat finishes. Depends on the case. Most I've seen are just painted, so the chem. stripper should work fine.
While your at the store getting a can of the stripper, grab a 2" putty knife too, that takes the softened paint off nicely without having to use a truckload of rags.
If the chemical stuff works, great. But if it don't, power sander!
And chemical strippers do have a tough time with some powder coat finishes. Depends on the case. Most I've seen are just painted, so the chem. stripper should work fine.
While your at the store getting a can of the stripper, grab a 2" putty knife too, that takes the softened paint off nicely without having to use a truckload of rags.
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2002
Carb cleaner is good for a multitude of things, but it won't strip paint very effectively. You need a real paint stripper to get the stuff lifted. They are usually a thin gel that you apply with a brush. You let it sit for a period of time (varies, read the instruction on the stripper you select), and the paint will bubble and lift. You can then blast both the paint and the stripper off with a garden hose. Do not let the stripper sit long enough to harden, at that point you have a real mess on your hands.
I built racing engines for a long period of time, and we used epoxy-base paints and baked them in an oven. Even so it is easily removed from sheet metal. Only on the porous cast surfaces on the blocks that were baked by the heat of the engine's exhaust did we ever have difficulty removing the paint.
I built racing engines for a long period of time, and we used epoxy-base paints and baked them in an oven. Even so it is easily removed from sheet metal. Only on the porous cast surfaces on the blocks that were baked by the heat of the engine's exhaust did we ever have difficulty removing the paint.
OP
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2002
- Location
- Alta Loma, CA
- Thread Starter
- #9
This is my new case that I want to strip the paint off of. I'd like to remove the paint and have the same appearance/finish as the back.
If I stripped the paint off the doors and top would it look like that or would it look like crap?
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2002
My experience is the stripped parts will have a slightly different appearance than those that have never been painted, but not in a bad way. Likley the stripped areas will be slightly darker but similar in appearance.
I do wonder about the front of case though. I assume the faceplate is plastic, and as such will never match the sides once they are stripped. To each his own, but I would think bare sides and top with a white plastic faceplate would be farily unattractive.
I do wonder about the front of case though. I assume the faceplate is plastic, and as such will never match the sides once they are stripped. To each his own, but I would think bare sides and top with a white plastic faceplate would be farily unattractive.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2002
I've used automobile brake fluid to remove paint -- sometimes by accident. One neat thing about it is that it doesn't hurt the plastics used for cases.
One neat thing about it is that it doesn't hurt the plastics used for cases.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2002
I've used automobile brake fluid to remove paint -- sometimes by accident. One neat thing about it is that it doesn't hurt the plastics used for cases.
I'm scared of regular paint remover because the most common type turns into carbon monoxide in the bloodstream.
One neat thing about it is that it doesn't hurt the plastics used for cases. I'm scared of regular paint remover because the most common type turns into carbon monoxide in the bloodstream.
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2003
- Location
- New Orleans
Older pcs are harder to strip than the new ones. And the color difference is usually because the back of the case on newer pcs is a different mix of metal *not sure what they are using but under heat they have different reaction times*. I have stripped many older pc down to the bare metal and stripper of any kind has never worked well for me. I find good ole' Elbow Grease gets it off best but then again I have not used any of the newer chemicals for this and there may now be better stuff then there was 5-6 years ago.
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2002
- Location
- not here anymore thats for sure
It would look like crap, just like I originally stated. You do realize the the back is not bare metal? It is surely anodized.
OP
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2002
- Location
- Alta Loma, CA
- Thread Starter
- #16
Ok then I guess I'll just have to paint it. Do you guys have any guick painting tips? Should I sand it down first? Any links?
Thanks for all the input and help on this thread guys.
Thanks for all the input and help on this thread guys.
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2002
Hey Larva-what kind of engines did you build? I was a tuner in AMA and WERA racing back in the day.
To pull the paint off the metal parts of a computer case, try Zip Strip. Its available at Wally World and most hardware stores, but only use it outside.
If you are going to paint, definitely sand down the old paint. If you're using the typical cheap-err-bargain case you'll be amazed at how much paint they threw on it. (And all in one big, fat coat, too. The rought texture you feel is actually the orange peel from hell.)
BHD
To pull the paint off the metal parts of a computer case, try Zip Strip. Its available at Wally World and most hardware stores, but only use it outside.
If you are going to paint, definitely sand down the old paint. If you're using the typical cheap-err-bargain case you'll be amazed at how much paint they threw on it. (And all in one big, fat coat, too. The rought texture you feel is actually the orange peel from hell.)
BHD
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2002
I raced karts for 20 years. I built 4 cycle engines for a long time, the 5hp Briggs and Strattons are the dominant type. In "stock" form a 5hp Briggs makes nearly 10hp and spins to 6500rpm, and in open modified form makes over 20hp and spins to 10,000rpm. I later got into 2 cycles, building 100 and 135cc piston port, reed valve, and rotary valve engines. A good 135cc rotary valve Unlimited 2 stroke makes in excess of 40hp, spins to 15,000 rpm, and accelerates like a sprint car with an all-up weight (including driver) of 365 pounds.
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