Cooling-The Definitive Guide

one thing you could change is your hsf. You are using a retail hsf and those are never good. When I first built my computer I used the retail hsf for about 1 week. Then I switched to a Dragon Orb 3, to a Volcano 5, now I am using a Volcano 6cu. When I first switched to the DR3, my cpu temps dropped 10C. Switch your hsf and you will see a difference.

First, I think I'm going to get rid of the thermal grease that came with the HSF and get some AS3 on there...I might also try lapping it. If I screw it up, I'll just buy a new one! (yeah right ) I don't think I'll move my exaust to the top slot...I just stuck my hand through one of my busted drive bay covers (I can just open it up--also makes a nice case handle ) and it's freezing cold in there, surpisingly enough. I think the problem (aside from the HSF) is that I don't have enough intake, because my case isn't too well designed for this kind of airflow.
As you can see....

It doesn't have a good front plate for airflow. The fan on bottom is designed to be there, but not the one I put in the drive bays. I'm thinking of cutting some sort of holes in the side of the plastic (so they won't be noticable) as little extra intakes for my "hacked" fan.

RE:edjmoo

Take no offence Radman....Given his current set up and fan placement I would think that all is well for his air ventilation...yes another fan up top would be great but to take the existing exhaust fan and move it higher may draw the air in a different way and he may not get the best cool air to his CPU where, I presume, he needs it most. The top of his case looks pretty empty from the skematic that I see....what needs to be cool up there? Like I said earlier, the air from my front bays are being drawn across my cpu and so far my cooling is great(was not always so).
So edjmoo...you might want to rethink moving yer fan, that front intake is in front of the cpu...think of the air flow..I dont know about you but when I stick my hand in my case the air is blowing over my CPU/Fan/HS...I think it helps and is logical...If anyone thinks this is not good placement please explain, I would like to learn

ejdmoo said:

Great guide...I already knew 99% of that, but it was nice to read it all in one place. Anywho, I wanted to know what might be wrong with my cooling setup. I think my air flow situation is fine. I might have a little negative pressure. My mobo temps (as of now) are 28C...My VGA is at 32C and my proc is 34C...this all at ~4% CPU usage. If I load it up, it can get up to 45C (48C with high ambients). I'm highly suspicious of the grease that came with both my intel HSF and my GF2 card. Anybody else think that's the problem?

Click to expand...

Hi ejdmoo,


I would say that your cooling setup looks to be sufficient, but there is simply not enough air coming in or out. I would try to change the intake to a 120mm and make use of that empty 80mm exhaust. (As previously suggested)

Also are your cables neatly tied and bound? They can cause all manor of different effects including trapping the air and causing it to flow off direction, creating a radical difference in temps.

You could also move your PC around your room if its convenient, i.e. if its in direct sunlight or near a radiator.

As for your CPU temps I would try lapping the HSF (look for Hoot's great guide) and use AS3 or AS2.
You could also try reversing your CPU fan as every setup will yield different results.


Glad everyone liked the guide!


M_N

Maximus Nickus said:

Here we go, the switches don't have positive / negative connections so you don't need to worry about that.

Just need a pair of wire cutters and a soldering iron and solder!


Enjoy your new found silence

Click to expand...

de-ja-vue

if you feel the 7v/12v does not offer enough control have a look at this http://www.bit-tech.net/article/52/ it has lots of ideas.

De-ja-vue indeed

Maximus Nickus said:

Hi ejdmoo,


I would say that your cooling setup looks to be sufficient, but there is simply not enough air coming in or out. I would try to change the intake to a 120mm and make use of that empty 80mm exhaust. (As previously suggested)

Also are your cables neatly tied and bound? They can cause all manor of different effects including trapping the air and causing it to flow off direction, creating a radical difference in temps.

You could also move your PC around your room if its convenient, i.e. if its in direct sunlight or near a radiator.

As for your CPU temps I would try lapping the HSF (look for Hoot's great guide) and use AS3 or AS2.
You could also try reversing your CPU fan as every setup will yield different results.


Glad everyone liked the guide!


M_N

Click to expand...

Yeah, lappings on my long-term list of things to do, and I waiting to do that 'til I get some AS3, and I'm waiting to buy that 'til my next newegg/mwave purchase (not worth the shipping for one thing )

As you can see, my cables are well out of the way (gotta love the full tower case). Just took some rearranging--no rounded cables or anything. I have a near direct route from the intakes to their respective exhausts. The extra exhaust is the PSU.

Looks good.

Mine is so tightly wrapped in cable ties you can't see any cables!

I would simply replace the fans for higher CFM ones. However if this proves to noisy then you could try a new HSF.
The Alpha PAL 8045 has done me great.

Good Luck,
M_N

Okay, I've got a question that's probably been asked a thousand times before, but, once more...

Is it really a problem if I use aluminum nipple's on a copper block ?
I heard the copper will desolve in the aluminum ions (or something like that, my english aint that good).

I understand that water-wetter slows down any corrosion processes. But what if I only used demi-water(destilled)?

how does it work with this new CpuFX block ? They can't order you to use watter-wetter right ?

it's a copper block with aluminum nipples

Hi Selachii!


That waterblock should be fine, and as long as you use Distilled (de-ionised) water with Water wetter you wil be 99.9% corrosion free!!!
The reason why I 100% recommend the usage of Water wetter combined with Distilled Water is the fact that it greatly reduces the chances of corrosion, Water wetter will also give you better temperatures and combined with Distilled water erradicate all chances of corrosion, (Normal water has all sorts of gumpf (nice word!!!if it is a word.... ) in it and just adds to the problem of corrosion so avoid its use.

If your still concerned with the Aluminuim/Copper mixture email the company, ask them about their views on this issue and what sort of warranty they give on this, I personally don't think it will corrode otherwise they wouldn't sell it as a mixture.
Or you could just purchase a solid copper Waterblock from a place such as www.dangerden.com


Good Luck!

Nick "Maximus Nickus"

My H20 will be up this week if the last shipment arrives, be sure that I will be updating the thread.

Keep your eyes peeled!

Why not look at my My Homeade Ramsinks there not bad eh?


M_N

Too Hot Proc

After looking at everyones temps I realize I have a problem, or do I, you tell me. I got an XP1600+ @ 1680Mhz/160Mhz and my temps are.. Idel 48c Load 56c, I'm using a Swiftech MCX462 w/as2 paste and a shim, why is my proc so hot? could the shim be to thick? I have a 120mm (bottom) and 2 80mm’s (lower front) in and 2 80mm’s (rear cpu) and an Enermax out!

Hi Septemberninth,

WELCOME TO THE FORUMS!!!


Your cooling seems to be fine and thats also a nice overclock but I am concerened with those temps.
Myself I wouldn't go above 45C in normal envirnments and 60C as an absolute maximum.

First what is the room temp? If you live in a very hot place that could be the cause, and what are your system (case) temps? Also is your Case next to a radiator? Is hot air being created near it? Heating in the floor etc.

Your cooling setup should be producing much better temps so I suspect something is blocking airflow.

First remove the side of your case, see if this makes a dramatic drop in temps, let me know what the temps drop (if any) is. Also make sure the CPU is in correct contact with the HSF, sometimes although its mounted correctly (bolts or not) the CPU's core isn't touching the HSf propaly.

Also if its possible could you post a pic (webcam is fine) of your case inards? It just makes identifying a problem much easier.

Let me know if this makes any difference and let me know the results. This will narrow down the problem and allow me to solve it! Although I suspect airflow is your problem, if the HSF IS mounted correctly.


Good Luck,
Nick

UPDATE:/ I have H20 and the H20 section is updated as promised. I hope this thread can know help a wider realm of people.

Check it out!!


M_N

peltier...

first i'd like to say that this thread is amazingly informative. I'm building an XP 2100+ system with a volcanoe 7+, but i would like to bring the temps way down, so when i try to overclock, i'll have as much leeway as i can... how exactly do i incorporate a peltier into my scheme here? the case (none of these parts are in my possession just yet, they are enroute.) comes with one intake and one exhaust fan... i don't remember the specs, but i have a dremel and am not afraid to use it... (it saved my butt when i lowered my wife's honda) so i can add fans as i need them i guess. i've got rounded cables, and my RAM has a heat spreader. An enermax EG 465 p/s will keep me up and running. also i have a second p/s (320W) if i need to do that for the peltier. What size peltier do i need? i saw a 220W for like $40... but do i need one that big? also, will i be able to use the volcanoe as the heatsink for the pelt? will i need a "cold" copper blank? (not sure of the name for a plain piece of machined copper) this whole concept is a mystery to me but, singularly piques my curiousity. can you really get sub-freezing temps? any ways, thanks again for putting your article together so us cherries can get a clue before we get popped.

alinosa

Hi alinosa,


Now with a 2100+ CPU you will need a Peltier of 200Watt or greater if you want any chance on hitting sub-zero. However even this peltier will struggle too with that CPU (even when not-overclocked).

I would head over to www.wetandchillychips.com they have a 312Watt Peltier (that doesn't produce condensation!) And its for a reasonable price.
The only problem with a Peltier for your CPU is you will need a Watercooling setup just to cool the Peltier!! (The reason for this being the Peltier not only generates a few hundred watts of Heat but also the CPU's heat) A HSF would simply overheat and the Hot Side would take over the cold side in seconds and well your CPU is now a "fixer upper"

I would also be careful with Peltiers as they are difficult to use, you may want to do a search on the Front Page for people who have used Peltiers before to see which techniques they employ.

Yes you will need a Cold Copper Plate for the Peltier as well. This goes directly on the CPU then the Peltier sandwiches on top, followed by the H20 Waterblock.
Also you need VERY HIGH Ampage PSU's, that 320Watt may well blow if you plug in a Peltier, and these high ampege PSU's can cost a bundle. ($100 and up)

Here are some useful links:

Water/Peltier Cooling Questions
Watercooling -- condensation problems?
Vapochill
Project X started...THIS IS A MUST READ
Cheap Evaporative Cooler in a Bucket
CPU Cooling with Dual 172 Watt Peltiers

I've included some "make your own" links for a more cost effective picture.
Or you could buy a Vapochill, they are expensive ($400-$700) but they almost guarrentee sub-zero temps. (They work on a phase-change system concept)
If you neeed info "Doctor" and "WildAndyC" both have them, just PM them for info and they will be glad to help. (Doctor hangs around the AMD Motherboards forum helping with Volt Mods, as for Andy well he's everywhere!!!)

If you need any more help then just ask!!!


Nick "Maximus Nickus"

whoa! thanks for all the info and the great links. It's amazing: the amount of information that you've collected and have at your disposal. Once again, you've done a great job here!

alinosa

Thanks, It gives me great pleasure when I help someone. To know that one person CAN make a difference.

Good Luck,
Maximus Nickus

$$$Bump!$$$