I did not expect it, but I reached the maximum bandwidth PhotoBucket allows me to have! The mod is more popular than I thought it would be on this and other forums.
I have resized and reuploaded all the pictures, as well as editing every single post relinking the images, but the bandwidth will reset at the start of next month
This means I can't make updates, and you can't see the pictures unless you click on them (I think), which is way too time consuming if you don't have a lightning fast connection.
That said, I'm sorry but I wasn't expecting this, it should be all good with the new file sizes in 10 days.
I hope you understand and wait patiently, in the meanwhile, I have time to work
To the new readers, if you ever get to this comment before closing the forum saying "No images? Eh.", check back on February 1st, it should all be back online!
Uhm right, I didn't know, I've never used forums before!
The problem are the pics I alreay uploaded to PhotoBucket, but it will be all good in 10 days.
I also have a lot to work on, I couldn't probably do an update before next week anyway.
Uhm right, I didn't know, I've never used forums before!
The problem are the pics I alreay uploaded to PhotoBucket, but it will be all good in 10 days.
I also have a lot to work on, I couldn't probably do an update before next week anyway.
A very short update to let you know I'm still alive and working!
The motherboard tray is quite distant from the panel, so there's enough room to fit the cables underneath it.
The problem is to find a way to fit them there, because the bent borders close every way.
Test with an old motherboard to plan where to cut.
These are the indications for the holes. Please notice the supreme craftsmanship related to the use of editing softwares.
First cuts for USB ports, front panel and front audio cables.
Notches around the border to make a way in for the cables and a way out for the motherboard power cables.
The CPU cable notch was a bit more difficult, because it was blocked by a metal part which supports the tray, so I had to cut another window.
(The case is flipped over, the hole is in the upper part)
I filed and everything is smooth, after the paintjob, I will evaluate if they need to be covered.
Now I'm working on making the front of the case look good, it's a hard job because I have to think of many ideas and try them to see how they fit, to finally find the definitive solution.
The work on the front is not over yet, so I will split it in two or more parts.
Here's how the panel originally looked.
A little flat and plain, it needs intervention!
Also, it doesn't have any USB or audio connector, I'll have to make them as well.
Initial idea for the interior, unpolished aluminium strips.
USB and audio ports have been recovered from old PCs, they might not be 3.0, but I don't own any 3.0 device anyway.
And here's the rest of the components for the ports + controls panel.
A potentiometer to tune the LEDs brightness, a tristable switch to select the fans voltage between 5 and 12 Volts, and a bicolored LED, green and orange, to signal how the fans are set.
To this, some resistors and a mechanical relais will be added, necessary for the LEDs to work.
Everything will be mounted on a 4 centimeters wide aluminium strio.
I started out by taking lots of measurements to find the best place for each component.
First circular holes for the LEDs, the potentiometer and the switch.
Relatively easy to make, I first carved a small hole by hand to keep the drill tip in position, then I slowly increased the diameter of the holes up to the perfect size.
Audio panel holes are circular as well, no problems besides a little disalignment between the holes, which were then filed by hand.
Now the problems start, USB holes are not circular...
It took me a lot of hours, I don't have pictures of how I made them, but I drilled holes to screw the ports in position, I marked the contours of said ports, and I drilled a couple of holes in the center of the future opening.
I then hand filed everything to the desired shape.
A really hard work, but I'm entirely satisfied with the result!
The pictures underline imperfections, it's not that bad when seen live
Here's how it will be once it will be mounted.
I first thought of securing everything from behind, but the addition of two vertical strips on the front, really gives it personality.
Once in position, I fixed everything with tape, so that I could make precise holes and screw everything with the pieces in place.
Here's how it looks when it's mounted, underneath it, the three narrow strips, will hide the DVD rewriter.
I will probably add some fake vertical supports, to make it blend with the panel even more.
Bottom right, the small project for the power switch.
I use the card reader a lot, so I will include and mask one:
I'm not entirely satisfied of the cover, as you can spot some black underneath. I will probably paint the plastic silver, I unfortunately couldn't make cuts for single card slots, they are too small.
The DVD rewriter is already in place, but it is well hidden!
Aluminium has been attached to the readers with some double sided tape.
Two strips are attached to the tray, while the third one has been slightly bent to make better contact with the body of the DVD rewriter, and to be flexible in the spot of the eject button, which I filed to make flat.
Eject button close-up.
Enjoy the video of the DVD rewriter in action, mounted in the temporary chassis
Thanks
I actually like how untreated aluminium looks, it has the industrial style I appreciate.
I might test brushing on some scrap, and see how it comes out, but I'm 90% sure I will keep it like this.
That build is coming along nicely, sir! A true work of art and I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Not sure if you'd be interested or not, but have you thought about putting a side window on the case? Just a thought. It will still look nice without one.
That build is coming along nicely, sir! A true work of art and I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Not sure if you'd be interested or not, but have you thought about putting a side window on the case? Just a thought. It will still look nice without one.
Yes, I am sorry. I finally realized the next day after going back and reading through your posts more thoroughly. For some reason I wasn't seeing all the images you had posted when I first read this thread. I skipped around some of your posts because of this and totally missed what you had said about adding a window.
Yes, I am sorry. I finally realized the next day after going back and reading through your posts more thoroughly. For some reason I wasn't seeing all the images you had posted when I first read this thread. I skipped around some of your posts because of this and totally missed what you had said about adding a window.
I usually don't start and complete a single work, instead, I work on multiple stuff at the same time, that's why it takes me a long time to do even simple stuff.
This update will be a bit different from the others and not related to the case, anyway, it is a work I did for my PC station.
One day, at 5pm, I had the idea to improve my monitor.
It's an Asus VW220D, 21.6", 1680x1050, which was discarded, almost new, because it had overheating problems;
After a few minutes of usage, it started stuttering and distorting the image, and the chassis would get really hot.
To avoid this problem, I had installed two small fans on the back of it, the modification allowed me to use this monitor up until today, altough with 10% maximum luminosity during the winter, and 0% during the summer.
I grew tired of the situation, and I wanted to use the monitor to its full potential, so I replaced the fans with two better performing ones, reclaimed from a laptop cooling base.
Here starts the dismantling, a really tedious procedure, as there are plenty of hidden clips, hardly reachable.
The fans work on 5 Volts taken from a wire between two PCBs, sadly, the monitor doesn't use 12 Volts, only 2.5 and 5.2.
In the picture, you can notice a hidden screw terminal between the circuit boards.
Here are the old holes, made only with a drill, pliers, hammer and file. Horrible, but they did their job.
New fans positioning...
...and Dremel cuts, drastically better.
To cut the plastic, I used some heavy weaponry.
It has been difficult to make the holes, as the tip could not stay in a fixed position because of the previous holes.
I managed to do it anyway.
Time to reassemble the PCBs, fix the fans in position, and wire them.
I used hot glue to keep everything steady.
It might not be perfectly aligned, but it doesn't matter, it's hidden and it works, and it also allowed me to fit a wire for the next step.
I has some wire mesh laying around, so I glued it for protection.
As everything was still open, I wanted to add a LED strip on the back of the monitor. The problem is that the strips work with 12V, and the monitor outputs 5.2!
Here started the most boring work of all, which is making the strip work with 5V, all while maintaining the same brightness level.
The strip is divided into modules, each of them composed of 3 LEDs and a 150 Ohms resistor, all in series.
With some measuring and calculations, I concluded that each LED wants 3.2 Volts, so I should put them all in parallel, and add a resistor to drop the 5 Volts to 3.2.
To my surprise and luck, I calculated a resistance of 150 Ohms, which is exactly what is already installed on the strip!
Here are the steps I followed on a sample.
Original strip.
Strip cuts to prepare for parallel configuration.
Insulator removal to show the copper strip.
Soldering.
And here they work on 5V.
To not waste the sample, I stuck it in my mouse to see the effect it produces.
It's not bad, but I'd have to rearrange the LEDs and remove a plastic layer, to have a more uniform brightness.
But this will be another work!
The definitive strip for the monitor has been soldered with some wires, as I needed the two copper strips on the sides to be continuous, to feed the whole strip.
I repositioned it on the back instead of on the bottom, to have a better effect.
Here's the final effect, I love the green aura around it! I will probably add a switch to turn them off, as even in low consumption mode they still work.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
A true work of art and I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.
