First Custom Loop - Please help me build it

Alright guys, I'm ready to take the plunge into a full custom (even if kit) water loop for my hardware! I'm a little nervous, but have done a bunch of reading and watching and am ready to undertake this endeavor.

I need help picking parts however, as everyone keeps recommending really expensive stuff. I know that custom loops can get quite pricey, but I don't want to give my unborn first-born as payment for one.

Here's what I've got:

Corsair Air 540
ASUS Crosshair V
AMD FX-9370
Radeon R9-290x (one at the moment, but as funds permit I'd like to add a 2nd card).

I have contacted XSPC and frozencpu.com for help getting everything I'll need to make this possible, and while XSPC wasn't particularly helpful, they weren't unhelpful either, and frozencpu gave me a very expensive parts list that totaled over 700. I asked him to help with a cheaper setup and that one was 550. I'm really looking to spending no more than 500, but that doesn't look possible.

I want something simple, yet efficient and cool (so my GPU doesn't throttle once spring/summer start).

Do I really need that much stuff? Please help watercooling vets.

I need to purchase the majority of stuff from FrozenCPU as I got a bunch of giftcards for my birthday from them.

You could change out your compression fittings for standard barbs, which might save you a little bit, but you've really come into this head first, water cooling CPU+GPU really isn't cheap (but what it lacks in thriftiness it makes up for in awesomeness!).

You could also save a few bucks by switching to an XSPC Raytorm cpu block, but that's literally just a few bucks lol

The single 360mm radiator will most likely be sufficient for your cpu+gpu, but you may not have a ton of headroom for overclocking if you want to go there. I certainly wouldn't expect to effectively cool an additional GPU down the line if you choose to add one on a single 360.

I'd say go with your cheaper parts list for now, and if you decide to add a GPU later, then get another rad to go with it. (a 240 should be fine)

Here's some more options for you, an XSPC AX360 kit from FrozenCPU:

• XSPC Raystorm/AX360 Kit - 264.99
• EK Fullcover R9 290X block - 106.99
• XSPC Compression fittings (to match the kit) x2 - 5.99 ea. (11.98)

Now, this does include XSPC tubing, which admittedly is not the best. However, you can easily order the Primochill tubing you were planning on, and use that instead. Just make sure its 7/16"ID 5/8"OD tubing, as those are the fittings included with the kit. This should leave you with plenty of room if you want to grab a second radiator or some extra fans, or whatever.

Also -- I have no experience with the XSPC radiator fans included with the kit, so I can't offer any real advice as to whether they're worth using, but at the very least, they'll give you a starting point.

Maybe I'm going about this incorrectly.

How much rad will I need to effectively cool a CPU + GPU, the ones I have?

How much rad will I need to cool CPU + GPU + a 2nd GPU, of what I have?

I've been told between 240-360 for what I currently have, and 360-720 for adding a 2nd GPU. If I could get a good/straight answer, that would probably help me narrow stuff down and get me started.

A 360 should be fine for what you've got.

For a CPU, I would typically say 120-240mm of rad, and 240mm to 360mm for a high end GPU like the R9 290X.

360mm for both puts you right in the middle, and will handle the load pretty well.

For the second GPU if you go down that route, a 360+240 (for 600mm of total rad space) would put you in good territory.

The main thing that will change here with your radiator space is the delta between air and water temperatures. Generally the goal is to keep the delta down as low as possible.

I currently run an AX360 (the rad in the kit that I linked you) and an AX240 in my loop. This cools my i5 3570k as well as my R9 290X, and I have plenty of headroom to add another card should I choose to in the future, and the temps in my loop would probably only go up minimally. Current temperatures hardly break 45-50°C on the CPU during normal usage, and 55°C on the GPU under heavy load while overclocked, it hardly breaks 50°C at stock freq/voltage.
Radiator effectiveness sees diminishing returns the more radiators you add in comparison to your heat load. There's a point where more radiator space just doesn't make a difference.


So, bottom line -- A 360mm rad will work just fine for you. Add a 240 or another 360 down the line if/when you add a GPU.

Nice case you got there OP. Really impressed by its design and the room for custom water cooling.

As for your questions, for what you have now the slim 360 rad is perfect for the CPU + GPU loop with 3 fans in push or pull OR possibly if measurements are taken you could do push and pull.

When adding the 2nd GPU the slim 240mm would be a perfect choice as well. You'll have more than enough heat surface in that nice case. You'd pretty much fill up the case to the max heat surface that can be fit inside. Those rads are known to fit nicely in that case. Do some searches of other builds in that case as you'll see a few using those specific radiators. Good choice on radiators all around. If you want to go and purchase both rads budget permitting than do it otherwise wait till you get the other GPU as already stated by Loki's good advise.

For liquid I would go with distilled and silver kill coil. You don't need that expensive utopia bottle. Take that out and save the $15.

Tubing is great as I have the same line in white.

Again make sure the GPU full waterblock is compatible for that card. Check out here to see if they do have one for yours.

For pump res combo's, I would either go with this pump and this res or go for this combo.

For the fans the Helix 120 (PWM or non PWM, your choice) are a couple bucks cheaper as well as the Raystorm CPU Block.

With a tight case you might need a few angle fittings to make some nice routes.

Hope this helps.

Hey guys, thanks for the help thus far. I did a bit more research today, and I think that I've come up with most of what I want and/or need.

I'm thinking this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...oton_and_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g59c683s2174
This: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ofile_Split_Fin_Radiator.html?tl=g59c673s2158
This: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...Block_-_Reference_Design.html?tl=g59c661s2190 (I like the look of this GPU block, but would something else be a better idea to get?)

Some distilled water, different tubing, as someone said that XSPC's tubing wasn't that great.

Is there anything I'm missing? I know I'll need extra fittings (coupling) but I don't know what brand or kind to go with? Do you guys think that a 240 + 280 rad would cool what I have now efficiently, plus an extra GPU down the road, or should I really go for a 360 + 240? I'm wanting the smaller rad so I don't have tight components inside.

Or would I really be server better by buying piece-meal everything, such as the original quote?

Thanks for all the help thus far, and just a little more.

The kit is fine. I would do the AX240 rad included in the kit and the AX360. You should be good to go on that point. Make sure you get extra fittings and angles (45 and 90).

Only problem with the kits is the tubing and fans aren't up to par. Most end up replacing those. I would try grabbing it piece by piece so you have more control. It might be a few more bucks but in the end you'd end up saving more cause a kit you'd end up changing a few things in the future as already stated.

It's up to you but either option you go with should be fine.

try to get a backpalte for the 290 it helps a couple degrees (literary just a couple lol)

Also dangerden has a 10 or 15 feet tubing pack that has a cutter and the barb wires/clamps

It cost the same as just buying 10-15 feet of tubing.

This kit + barbs will save you half the price on fittings

I might be wrong on this, as I've seen no data, but I don't think a backplate will help with cooling at all? As far as I'm aware, they don't thermally interface to anything, except minimally by the screws. My understanding was that their purpose was aesthetic.

m0r7if3r said:

I might be wrong on this, as I've seen no data, but I don't think a backplate will help with cooling at all? As far as I'm aware, they don't thermally interface to anything, except minimally by the screws. My understanding was that their purpose was aesthetic.

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Really depends in the card and how efficient the front part of the block is.

The 290 backplates are metal and actually help dissipate the heat from the VRM's

I've had cards ion the past where it was pure looks ( a gtx 680) but in this i get 1-2 degrees when full load mining out of them.

the price still doesnt justify but its a good thing to keep in mind

Is part of the power phase on the back of the card? That's kinda unique.

m0r7if3r said:

Is part of the power phase on the back of the card? That's kinda unique.

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Not in the back but the heat it produces its big lol, its the same reason some people put heatsinks in the back of it

m0r7if3r said:

I might be wrong on this, as I've seen no data, but I don't think a backplate will help with cooling at all? As far as I'm aware, they don't thermally interface to anything, except minimally by the screws. My understanding was that their purpose was aesthetic.

Click to expand...

I've read alot about the backplate being a support role for the PCB and helps ventilate heat because most have thermal pads on them. Great for those GPUs that have Ram chips on the backside as well.

GTXJackBauer said:

I've read alot about the backplate being a support role for the PCB and helps ventilate heat because most have thermal pads on them. Great for those GPUs that have Ram chips on the backside as well.

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Oh support yes this one actuLly helps vs the old ones . It has 6 screws I think on a metal plate . The block if self bends a little the pcb

Huh, that's super interesting, I would never have guessed that it would do anything.

Depends on brand really and model. Like i said my 680 backplate was a waste of money . It was plastic, bendable, and hold by 1 screw. So not even minimal support.
By having 6 screws (plus one in front). The 290 does support the pcb). It is not required , but if he's sling in the future I will grab one for the bottom card minimum in case the top one leaks , etc.