High Temps Stock 4770k on WC

Denatured alcohol, at least 90% isopropyl alcohol, or Arctic Clean. I love the Arctic clean. It may not work any better, but it smells like oranges. I'd wait, the 8 core 16 thread I7 is right around the corner, but it will be an Extreme CPU which means you are looking at 1100.00.

The only difference between the 4930 and 4960 is a couple hundred extra Mhz and 3 MB of L3 cache. They don't overclock any better. Is that worth twice the price? Not in my opinion.

I caved and ordered the Liquid Ultra, I guess I'll be delidding in a few days. :/

Post pics of your delidding and temps
I hope it works fine.

You know what, I'm running so much high end gear on a ****ty 650w PSU, and lately when playing heavy games It's squealing hard.

Should I replace it? Could it be causing inconsistent voltage issues? I'm thinking of replacing anyways since I'm running such expensive hardware on a no-rating 650w Antec Tru power.

It's not the titan either, if I get on my knees and put my ear at the Titan's exhaust it's not as loud. When I put my ear next to the PSU however it sounds loud and terrible.
I air dusted the PSU and the screeching is still there. Maybe the addition of a Soundblaster ZXR was too much for it? That's when I started noticing the screeching.

Should I upgrade to a more reliable PSU? I was thinking a supernova since their cheaper and around equal performance with the Corsair ones, as well as the warranty on my Titan BLACK Superclocked being with EVGA as well.
If I we're to change it, I'd probably get a 1300w G2 Supernova.
Any opinions?

Do you know what you're pulling total?

How old is this PSU? Is it making loud noises? Maybe its the fan?

A kill-a-watt would come in handy in this instance.

Nothing overclocked, the trusty PSU calculator, with 6 x 120 mm fans say you need a 466W PSU with 33 amps. I just picked the lowest watt pump.

I was researching and apparently my model of PSU had an issue with leaky capacitors and the rail going way out of spec. Ive already ordered a 1300w supernova (it was 10$ more than the 1000w)

I double checked today and its still whining badly.

That is way overkill, but WTH. With an overclocked 4930k, 3 x 780 TI's. 4 x MCP35X pumps, 8 sticks of RAM, and about 15 fans, my system only needs about 1200w. That's without the GPU's overclocked. I still have 300w to play with. Unfortunately, my UPS is only rated to 900w. A 1500w UPS requires a 30 AMP circuit. I'm not paying hundreds of bucks to get one plug changed to 30 amps from 15.

I thought might as well get a psu I won't ever have to upgrade.

The TIM for the delid should be in around this week hopefully.

Never say never.

Daddyjaxx said:

That is way overkill, but WTH. With an overclocked 4930k, 3 x 780 TI's. 4 x MCP35X pumps, 8 sticks of RAM, and about 15 fans, my system only needs about 1200w. That's without the GPU's overclocked. I still have 300w to play with. Unfortunately, my UPS is only rated to 900w. A 1500w UPS requires a 30 AMP circuit. I'm not paying hundreds of bucks to get one plug changed to 30 amps from 15.

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You dont have to, you only need to find out on which breaker the wallplug is on in the breaker box... and then put in a 32Amp breaker OR switch the wires with the neighbours whatever is rated 32Amps (probably furnace/boiler/hvac/...)

Unless you are living in some house/block where the wiring is older as 30 years, ALL wall plug wiring should legally be AWG 12 or better (light fixtures & swiches are probably AWG 14)

Of course, if its like AWG 14 or worse on the wall sockets, then you have to pull a new wire/cable (AWG 10 or 8) from the central breaker box to the wall plug.. Easy enough if your wall plug isn't a 100 yards up & away from the breaker box.

Robert17 said:

Your temps don't look out of line for the tests you're running on the system you've built. What are your ambient temps? I don't see mention of them.

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They are in the ballpark... I would agree.

Daddyjaxx said:

If you aren't going to run with H/T, what's the point of buying an I7? You might as well buy an I5 with 2mb less cache.

OP, I really don't trust RealTemp anymore, especially with the newer CPU's. You really need to spend a lot of time to calibrate it. Two of my six cores show an idle temp of 16c on my 4930k. Hey, why water cool? I'm apparently running sub-ambient on air.

Click to expand...

Realtemp works fine.

As was always in the past, these sensors are not accurate at idle, but as temps increase become more accurate. I assume your load temps are where you think they should be, correct? But yeah, that is usually what the issue is there (idle temps). As far as checking its accuracy, did you try other temp programs (Coretemp, Hwmonitor) and did they show the same idle temps? If it's reading off the same sensor, it should.

Yeah, at full load on air with Thermaltake C4 or C5, temps are in the high 50's or low 60's.

Uh, you never just change a breaker to 30 amps, unless you want your house to burn down. I'm not an electrician, but I do know that much. My house is 22 years old. I have no clue what gauge the wires are, but probably not enough to handle 30 amps, plus, if you do it correctly, you have a 30 amp plug installed. If the wires can't handle 30 amps, they will heat up and burn your house down because the breaker won't trigger. This outlet is about 150 feet max, probably less, up and to the breaker. The breaker is in my garage and the garage is next to my bedroom's bathroom.

Success!

Successful deliding and new 1300w supernova installed!

I went a little more conservative on the thermal paste this time I swear!

I took pictures of the process:

Yuck~~


Cleaned off the thermal paste


In the vice (I fixed the tape but didn't take a photo)


SEPARATED! (you can see the tape job was better)


**** that's disgusting intel...


The camera didn't want to focus on the damn chip...only the die


Just the chip


Cleaned chip and IHS


That liquid ultra...mmm


He's in the slot!


So tight!~~~


Liquid cooler on!





AND THE RESULTS:

Ambient temperature: 75F/24C

[email protected] Before DELID @ 10mins Prime95


[email protected] After DELID @ 10mins Prime95


Conclusion:
I am extremely happy with the results. When I was about to hammer the CPU with the wooden block I was sweating like a pig. And when it came off gently (moved like 2-3 inches) I knew it was a success.

The cleaning wasn't difficult but it was a pain. The thermal paste on the IHS felt exactly the same as the glue, I could only tell the difference because of the color.

On the second test the water cooler was on silent mode and the fans didnt even bother ramping up. I should probably do a test on high performance and see what happens...

I guess all that remains is too see how far I can actually push him.

1.3kw psu, lol.

70c at 4ghz 1.18v?


Edit: ahh 120mm AIO...

At least your load temps are more even now. Besides WAY too much paste the first time, your previous mount appears to have been uneven leaning too much in one direction. I'm surprised you actually used my suggested vice method.

Awesome improvement. That's something you'd see in custom water cooling, a 20c+ improvement. Glad it all worked out for ya. You got some guts cause I know I sure as hell wouldn't have tried that. lol

Yeah I wasn't sure if you were putting the IHS back on as some don't and just put the WBs/HSs on the actual die which is fragile I've heard as its susceptible of being crushed. I am wondering what did you use to keep the IHS back to the chip or was it just the liquid ultra keeping them together? Liquid Ultra is some new paste or something?

Nice job Voaltile, now you have similar temps as if the IHS was soldered.

@GTXJackBauer, the socket/IHS clamp holds the IHS in place, you just place naked die in socket, then place IHS on and clamp it. coollaboratory liquid ultra and liquid pro are metal tims with low contact resistance like solder, and high bulk thermal conductance ~35-40 w/mk for both. And yeah there are a few people using bare die cooling on other forums, have seen two cracked dies/dead chips so far, but you can get 4-5C better temps by going bare die versus IHS with liquid metal for tim1.

I've kept it for a few days at 4.0 GHz solid and noticed some extremely weird improvements.

Even though the clock-speed pre-delid and post-delid are identical, except for the vcore, performance has gone up substantially.

I noticed this is Skyrim, which would never exceed 20% cpu usage, now dropped even lower to 8-10% max, and I never rise above low ~40C.

My Skyrim has over 80 mods and most of them are 2k/4k textures.
The CPU factor has been pulled almost entirely out of the equation due to disabling deferred rendering and leaving all textures uncompressed (thank you 6gb of VRAM ), but I STILL GAINED 10-15 fps on average with a UGRID of 7 (UGRID = render load distance, default is 5 and much smaller).

I did install the 1300w supernova while I was doing the deliding process. The old Antec TruePower had some capacitors that were melting (white stuff on the top that I know is not supposed to be there, and no, it wasn't glue). I also read that this PSU had issues with the rail going outside of voltage spec.

I literally haven't changed a thing in the settings pre and post delid, yet the CPU has magically turbo-charged in performance. I mean 15 FPS gain is pretty ridiculous, as well as never going above 10% CPU usage.

Not only that, but in general everything seems to run smoother, with a major performance boost in games ( I can't be exact other than Skyrim, but I can tell a difference ).

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this if you guys have any to share, it has left me a bit confused.

However, it's all POSITIVE weird **** that has happened, not negative

It could be the combination of a cooler run CPU and a new PSU with cleaner power going to your components, especially your GPU.