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Seasonic Platinum 1000W or 1200W

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One thing I noticed between your links... the Legit reviews test is pulled from a Kill-a-Watt meter... that value is how much the WALL SOCKET takes, which ADDS the (in)efficeincy of the PSU.

So to use that example, if it hit 743W on a KaW, assuming a 90% efficient (~platinum) level PSU, it is actually pulling around 670W from the PSU...

EDIT: Maybe I am crazy, but, that power meter reads after the PSU as well????? Not sure.. but its (in)efficienies would be taken into account as well... assuming I am right... which I am not remotely convinced of in this case. :p
 
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EarthDog said:
Well, what you first quoted from ATM he was talking to Tyerker... look at his signature to see what he could have upgraded... (the GPU... a better or bigger SSD perhaps?).

I don't think anybody here is exactly matching their PSU's to their requirements. We always suggest a buffer for upgrades. I can tell you, at least according to my kill-a-watt, that my startup wattage is not close to my gaming load. So while planning for transient response may be worthwhile, that is already built in with the buffer that most people would suggest and startup loads are really not a problem in the first place.

As far as overkill, that is in the eye of the beholder/person helping in my opinion. I like to run my PSU's in the 80% range give or take. For your specific example, 700W with a 1000W PSU I would call more than you need/overkill. A 850W PSU would be my 'sweetspot' for 700W of ACTUAL use (meaning not from the kill-a-watt) and that would like save enough money to get some beers or a decent bite to eat... .
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The points applied to both. For starters, theres no way in hell this system runs at 600w. Advising a 750w is ridiculous to me. I do agree in the 80% range, thats what most electronic fail safes work at. Range for 10-20% over load capacity during peaks and transients. I do think 1000w is "too much" at 43% over load capacity, BUT, it's not like the 1000w is going to drag down and explode either. Plenty of high rated 1000w PSU's that don't cost 250$ out there.


EarthDog said:
One thing I noticed between your links... the Legit reviews test is pulled from a Kill-a-Watt meter... that value is how much the WALL SOCKET takes, which ADDS the (in)efficeincy of the PSU.

So to use that example, if it hit 743W on a KaW, assuming a 90% efficient (~platinum) level PSU, it is actually pulling around 670W from the PSU...
Click to expand...



And you're implying that PSU's will give 100% of their rated load 100% of the time... Also, inside a nice, hot case with 2 r9 290x's and a 4770k overclocked, you're assuming that a PSU is giving rated power (hint : its NOT).
 
bob4933 said:
I was actually more "asking" than "telling". As far as the system running at 600w, I don't see how thats possible. A single 290x will pull 295w peak, so 2 would be 590w. Add in an overclocked i7 4770k, whats that 115w? Add in the extreneous and you're pulling dangerously close to maxing out a 750w power supply. He's not running "stock" as indicated in his OP.

Here's some numbers. PLEASE tell me where I'm "failing" my "calculations"?
http://www.legitreviews.com/xfx-radeon-r9-290-crossfire-video-card-review-at-4k-ultra-hd_139418/11


I appreciate that its a 4960x, but those aren't pulling 200w MORE than 4770k's overclocked...


Here's another one...

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/58...b-in-crossfire-video-card-review/index23.html





I wasn't trying to be bratty, but Im really curious where you're coming up with "600w" ... as that number is much much too low given real world testing data.
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That's power from the wall.
There's a HUGE difference (known as efficiency) as to what the PSU actually has to supply to the system.

A 4960X pulls ~75-100W more than a 4770K can, IIRC.
Assuming 85% efficiency that PSU on your link was actually seeing ~675W of usage.
Take from that the extra power of the 4960X, and you're around 600W, just like I said.

bob4933 said:
And you're implying that PSU's will give 100% of their rated load 100% of the time... Also, inside a nice, hot case with 2 r9 290x's and a 4770k overclocked, you're assuming that a PSU is giving rated power (hint : its NOT).
Click to expand...

A QUALITY PSU will absolutely give 100% of its rating 24/7.
 
ATMINSIDE said:
A QUALITY PSU will absolutely give 100% of its rating 24/7.
Click to expand...

No. It wont lol. Theres no power supply alive that will do this. Maybe if you're subcooling your PSU with cryogenic processes..


You may know enough about PSU's, but you should really expand your knowledge on factors that affect electronics. If you think a PSU is giving you 100% rated power... at what temperature? 65F? 70F? What about inside a nice warm case at 90-100F... That factor alone can drop rated power a good margin.
 
Yes... it will (damn well better). I actually asked this question to Oklahoma Wolf a couple of years back. ;)

And that is why GOOD PSU testers test units in a hotbox...

Also, I didn't imply or allude to that...all I did was to point out the ACTUAL load from that review not to run a PSU at 100% load for its life. ;)

I do agree in the 80% range, thats what most electronic fail safes work at.
Click to expand...
You should check out an OW(JG) review sometime. He pushes the PSU's to their rated load and they do not shut down... at least QUALITY PSU's dont. ;)
 
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EarthDog said:
Yes... it will (damn well better).

I actually asked this question to Oklahoma Wolf a couple of years back...

That is why GOOD PSU testers test that in a hotbox... ;)
Click to expand...



If thats the case, then PSU's are OVER rated from the box. Which would be interesting to note.
 
bob4933 said:
No. It wont lol. Theres no power supply alive that will do this. Maybe if you're subcooling your PSU with cryogenic processes..


You may know enough about PSU's, but you should really expand your knowledge on factors that affect electronics. If you think a PSU is giving you 100% rated power... at what temperature? 65F? 70F? What about inside a nice warm case at 90-100F... That factor alone can drop rated power a good margin.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is absolutely capable of doing such.
Why do you think Oklahoma Wolf loads the PSUs in his hotbox for JonnyGuru's reviews?

Go ahead and ask Oklahoma Wolf or Bobnova, see what they say.
They know more about power supplies than anyone else around here (or any other forum I've browsed)

bob4933 said:
If thats the case, then PSU's are OVER rated from the box. Which would be interesting to note.
Click to expand...

No, the quality units available are actually able to supply what they say they can supply. Period. End of story.
 
Then these things defy the laws of physics. I'll wait for them to chime in. Electronics ratings are at a design temperature and loading. Exceed that, and the ratings diminish.

If its working 100% above design temperature, then they are in fact, over rated from the factory.

edit: here ya go. http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/resistors_01a.php


If in fact they are designed to be loaded 100% at high temperatures, then I will eat my foot and carry on with my day. There are some very specific LAWS OF PHYSICS that are being applied here, not simply "random musings" from a bob type mind.
 
bob4933 said:
Then these things defy the laws of physics. I'll wait for them to chime in. Electronics ratings are at a design temperature and loading. Exceed that, and the ratings diminish.

If its working 100% above design temperature, then they are in fact, over rated from the factory.
Click to expand...

Did you ever think that they can be designed to operate at higher temperatures?!
 
If its working 100% above design temperature, then they are in fact, over rated from the factory.
Click to expand...
BUt that is the thing, they are NOT working above their design temperature in most 'cases' (pun intended). I believe OW tests at 40C... that is why we go there. :)
 
Here, I'll make this so theres no speculation on my thought process

Wattage = volts x amps

Volts = amps x resistance

Holding amperage constant, which is should relatively be from the wall.... you raise heat. Heat raises resistance, which raises the amount of volts. This is directly proportional to the wattage -> ergo more wattage.

If at 25c its held at a certain wattage rating, it should be pulling MORE wattage as temperature rises.

So, I don't care what "oklahoma wolf" has to say on the matter. IF they are puitting out 100% loading in a "hot box" they are over rated from the factory.
 
EarthDog said:
BUt that is the thing, they are NOT working above their design temperature in most 'cases' (pun intended). I believe the 80+ cert is 40C...and IIRC, OW tests at 50C? ;)
Click to expand...

bob4933 said:
Here, I'll make this so theres no speculation on my thought process

Wattage = volts x amps

Volts = amps x resistance

Holding amperage constant, which is should relatively be from the wall.... you raise heat. Heat raises resistance, which raises the amount of volts. This is directly proportional to the wattage -> ergo more wattage.

If at 25c its held at a certain wattage rating, it should be pulling MORE wattage as temperature rises.

So, I don't care what "oklahoma wolf" has to say on the matter. IF they are puitting out 100% loading in a "hot box" they are over rated from the factory.
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It isn't OVER RATED.

ATX spec (Section 5.1) shows operating temperature to be 10°-50°C
 
How hot is this "hot box"???? If its at the "rated temperature" its not much of a "hot box" more of a "rated temperature box". You guys have me sitting here thinking its operating past its design.
 
bob4933 said:
How hot is this "hot box"???? If its at the "rated temperature" its not much of a "hot box" more of a "rated temperature box". You guys have me sitting here thinking its operating past its design.
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50°C, as EarthDog already said.
Which is the operating spec from the ATX specification sheet.
 
Ok Ok Ok... Earthdoggydog is having a moment of clarity... at some point, I want to split this thread into its own discussion... until that time, can we stick to the topic at hand??

Please... no more posts unless its actually helping the OP? (I am just as guilty here... just trying to bring this back home men)..

Im going home.. eating dinner, hanging out with the family, and then should be able to split this mess up so we can continue the discussion? Ok? Ok. 'Sal right? 'Saaaaaaaaaal riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight. :)
 
OP, I think you should buy what you want, as long as reviews from legitimate sources look good. And Seasonic Platinum is a very high quality unit. And if you want to get Tri-SLI 780ti, then you will be glad you overspent on the PSU.
 
Hi, I'm sorry I didn't wanted to start a heated debate. After thinking about it I think I'm going to get a EVGA 1000 G2 over the 850 G2. It's only a 20 difference and I like the extra buffer space. I forgot to mention I also have a NZXT x60 CPU closed loop water cooler. I also plan to water cool my 2x R9 290x. I spent a lot of money (for me at least) on my new desktop and I don't want to cheap out on a PSU to save just $20. If I don't use 1000W I don't think it's going to cause any damage yet if I push the 850W to the max it might shorten the PSU's lifespan.

David

PS I was really close in getting the 1300 G2 but I knew I would get hell from everyone :)
 
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