• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

High temps with WW block... Help

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

Drizzit

Registered
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Need some help on what I'm doin wrong....

Just got myself a kit with the following:

D-TEK WHITE WATER Alu
D-TEK Pro-Core unpainted
Pro-Core Fan Shroud
Hydor L30
Papst 4412 F/2GL 26db
ClearFLEX 60 Premium 1/2"

I'm using a T-line and I'w set it up in the following order:
Pump->Radiator->Cpu->Tline->Pump

Problem is I'm getting really high temps... atm I'm at 45c full load with a 1700+@2200(200*11) with 1,7V. System temp is about 25c with a roomtemp at 23-24c.

I'w seen people saying they got figures way below 40c full load with a vcore of over 1,85 (I get about 55c full load at 1,85) so what am I doing wriong?
I'w tightened the block screews 6 full times as it said in the setup papers as best I could(can well be 5 times not more than 6 though) can this be a problem... should I try it again?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
some pics of my system can be found at www.drizzit.org/dator
(since then I'w modded the window to get a 80mm fan at the right bottom and all problems with the tight bends on tubing is solved)
 
At first glance your problem seems to be radiator related.

You have a very weak low-flow fan attempting to pull air through the heatercore. The heatercore also looks like it is setup in a way that it will be struggling to draw in fresh cool air from outside of the case.

I would suspect that you may find that your water temperatures are climbing will into the high 30's, or perhaps even 40's (Celcius) and it is this that is affecting your temperatures.

Also, you have no air-flow over the CPU area at all. The in-socket thermistor, when using a heatsink, gets cooled by the air-flow coming off the heatsink. That air-flow also cools the power mosfets too. Without any air-flow over the CPU socket area, all that stuff gets pretty hot, and also heats up the thermistor making it read quite a deal higher than one would expect.
 
ok... posted this as ocau to so catar got my answer there... thanx both of u for your answers...

I got 2 80mm fans at the back of the case blowing into the case over the general area round the mosfets and cpu... my problem is to get fresh air down to the heatercore thats why I put in a fan in the window to blow at the fan on the heatercore. havent cut antyting out for the heatercore though so it has to squeese out the hot air in 2 preemade openings for 80mm fans in the front of the case... same as the ones u can see in the back in the pic of the case on koolancees page http://www.koolance.com/products/product.html?code=CCS-A08

So i should try to open up a larger hole in the front and get a stronger fan.... any advice on a good fan that wont destoy your hearing?

dont know if u got that but atm I got the fan taking air from inside the case pushing it through the hearercore out the front of the case... move the fan to push in from outside instead?
 
I think I definately found the problem... If you look at your tubing in THIS picture, it is almost closed shut at the inlet of the pump. You MUST fix that ASAP. You probably have very little flow at all through the system.
 
nikhsub1 said:
I think I definately found the problem... If you look at your tubing in THIS picture, it is almost closed shut at the inlet of the pump. You MUST fix that ASAP. You probably have very little flow at all through the system.


thanx for the tip but u missed the last line in my post...;)

(since then I'w modded the window to get a 80mm fan at the right bottom and all problems with the tight bends on tubing is solved)

dont have a camera avaliable atm so cant show u how it looks now but all bends on the hoses are gone... didnt notice that when I took the pics but saw it when I looked at the pics and sorted it asap....
 
Drizzit said:



thanx for the tip but u missed the last line in my post...;)



dont have a camera avaliable atm so cant show u how it looks now but all bends on the hoses are gone... didnt notice that when I took the pics but saw it when I looked at the pics and sorted it asap....
Woops, guess I did! You know that Abit's in particular seem to report higher temps than most other boards right? Have you tried placing a fan to blow over the WB? Also try a stronger fan on the Rad. How many mounts of the WB have you done?
 
only one mount.... I little nervous to break the core with the heavy block so well... thought I'd ask first....;)

I'll try remounting it tomorrow though....

and yea I know they seem to report high figures but I dont have anything else to measure with so well... problem is I'm getting almost same figures as with my old koolace block and well... it speaks for itself....
 
nah not a palo.... its a 1700+ T-bread B DLT3C JIUHB 1,5v default....;)

had a 1800+ palo before and I got it to 1640max no matter the vcore... so dont think there is a 1700+ that does over 2G..:D
 
I think all the above improvents are great, but that MB as already stated reports higher temps than normal. If you take it too far you might find yourself in another problem , like you chipped your core trying another mount that did not improve things or something like that....
 
Drizzit said:
only one mount.... I little nervous to break the core with the heavy block so well... thought I'd ask first....;)

I'll try remounting it tomorrow though....

and yea I know they seem to report high figures but I dont have anything else to measure with so well... problem is I'm getting almost same figures as with my old koolace block and well... it speaks for itself....
You must remount the block. What paste did you use? Did you apply it in a super thin even layer?
 
Are you sure that you bled your system correctly?

In some of those pics, I can see what looks like tiny bubbles. It's probably due to poor image quality, but there shouldn't be any bubbles in a water-cooled rig's loop.
 
using AS3 paste in a thin layer... never had problems with that before so I'm quite safe to say its not the problem....

and yes its bled correctly.... using a crap camera as u said thats the problem.... had it open for bleding for almost 5 hours and shaked everything alot before closing it.... so that shouldnt be the problem....but u never know do u..:D

will try making a larger hole for the core outblow and get a stronger fan first of....

any thoughts on whats better push out from inside case or draw in from outside through the heatercore?
 
ok... I'll change direction on the fan when I get a new one then....

should I change my to fans at the back of the case to draw out instead of in then?
 
Drizzit said:
ok... I'll change direction on the fan when I get a new one then....

should I change my to fans at the back of the case to draw out instead of in then?
Yes. Typically, you want air coming in the front and out the back and or top.
 
Drizzit said:
ok... posted this as ocau to so catar got my answer there... thanx both of u for your answers...

I got 2 80mm fans at the back of the case blowing into the case over the general area round the mosfets and cpu... my problem is to get fresh air down to the heatercore thats why I put in a fan in the window to blow at the fan on the heatercore. havent cut antyting out for the heatercore though so it has to squeese out the hot air in 2 preemade openings for 80mm fans in the front of the case... same as the ones u can see in the back in the pic of the case on koolancees page http://www.koolance.com/products/product.html?code=CCS-A08

So i should try to open up a larger hole in the front and get a stronger fan.... any advice on a good fan that wont destoy your hearing?

dont know if u got that but atm I got the fan taking air from inside the case pushing it through the hearercore out the front of the case... move the fan to push in from outside instead?

So you didn't cut out an opening for the heatercore? That means there is practically no air going through it. Cut out the entire metal section of the case that it pulls air through.

With your case, it would be best if the heatercore/shroud flows in, and your rear fans and power supply work as the exhaust. Adding more exhaust fans will increase the air intaked through the heatercore with this setup.
 
ok... thanx for the tip....

got 3 fans on top of the setup to... as I'm using my old koolance case... (u can see em on one of my pics taken from inside upwards in the case)so wich would be better:

2 fans at back drawing out and 3 on top blowing in
2 on back blowing in and 3 on top drawing out
all 5 drawing out
all 5 blowing in
 
If you seal the case well, and have the heatercore sucking in, more fans blowing out = more air through heatercore. :)

Before you play with fans, cut out the area around the heatercore. It should look like this:

gibcase.jpg


Also note how I cut off the vertical back section of the plastic front fins on the case for more airflow.
 
Back