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Antec True430 Voltage adjustment?

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Metalwave

Registered
Joined
Jan 18, 2004
Location
Washinton DC
Anyone know if it's possible to adjust the output voltage on an Antec True430 PSU? My stock voltages are fine, but I was just curious if it's possible to do without major modification outside the PSU (i.e. are there voltage pots inside the thing?). It's always helps to know that you can do it if the need arises.
 
Nope, not that I know of. I just got an Antec True 550w which had weak rails. I vmodded all 3 rails with 10k vr pots via sensor wires. Only Psus i know with pots inside are:

TTGI 520w- 1 vr 5v/12v adjust
Fortrons
Sparkle ( made by Fortron)
PC Power & Cooling

Maybe more but those are the ones i know for sure.
 
I was initially going to go with a Fortron 400W, but I really like the independant rails in the Antecs. How do you do that vmod to the rails that you mentioned with the 10k pots? Is there a link I could goto to save you the trouble of explaining it?

Thanks
 
Well , I got the info from here. Just scroll thru the pages and you'll see the pics and how to's.

Here's what my Antec True 550w looks like:
Antec.jpg


You can see a vr for each rail.

This is what i have now:
+12v= 12.45v
+5v = 5.15v
+3.3v= 3.6v

I can crank up more, but don't need to. This is more than enough. If needed all i do is get my multi meter and turn a screw :D

If you need any more help, just give me a holla.
 
Hmm, that's pretty interesting. I'm not sure however, which wires are the feedback lines. It'd be interesting to try though. The link you gave was a little ambiguous in it's directions.

So essentially, after locating the feedback lines, you just put a 10k vr inline?
 
AntecRep said:
Out of curiosity how does that effect the voltage feedback?

AntecRep

Hmm, I don't see any changes. Also no changes in psu temps. Air being removed is still the same warmth.


Metalwave said:
Hmm, that's pretty interesting. I'm not sure however, which wires are the feedback lines. It'd be interesting to try though. The link you gave was a little ambiguous in it's directions.

So essentially, after locating the feedback lines, you just put a 10k vr inline?

That's correct. A 10k 15 turn VR. The VR has 3 legs, you eliminate the 3rd leg which leaves you with the 1st and middle legs of the VR. Use your multimeter to check if the VR is zero-ed out, meaning it's set to 10k. Solder the 1st leg of the VR to th sensor wire and the 2nd leg to ground wire. Jump the psu on with green and black wires from the ATX connector. Use the mutlimeter to test. Set MM to 20v DC and test thru the AUX connector of the psu. Orange wire is the +3.3v rail. Once you start to turn the VR clockwise you'll see the voltage rise. The lower resistance on the VR, the higher the voltage. All you're doing is tricking the psu's sensor into thinking it's not supplying enough voltage therefore it will compensate for it and viola! :D

Same rule applies to the 5v and 12v rails, but to test these you'll have to use a molex connector. Yellow wire is +12v and Red wire is +5v. Black of course is ground.
 
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AntecRep said:
Out of curiosity how does that effect the voltage feedback?

AntecRep

Well seeing as how the voltage feedback on mine never really worked. I guess not at all.

People kept saying let it break in, it needed to adjust the voltage. Well it never did. Measured with a multimeter the 12 was always around 11.85v which is too low if you ask me.

How is the voltage feedback suposed to work anyways?



Oh Nebulous, you da man. Finally got them taped down and labled. Looks good. Maybe it can help save you in Halo next time.
 
{PMS}fishy said:
Oh Nebulous, you da man. Finally got them taped down and labled. Looks good. Maybe it can help save you in Halo next time.

Oh yeah! ;) I think my video card is crapping out tho :( Even after formatting and reinstalling the os and fresh VC drivers, evry once in a while I get the same problems :rolleyes:

Lucky me i don't have to shell out for a psu for now, so my loot will go to a new VC.
 
Hmmm....I just got a Antec 550W True control that has a white wire that goes out to a 5.25 control panel that allows for voltage increases & decreases. Not to try & steal the thread or anything.......But how do you check the 3.3v line? Antec says use a power molex to check 12v & 5v, but they do not suggest a way or even checking the 3.3v line except for using software that reads your voltages. (which in most cases is not entirely accurate) Thanks!
 
Arghh, thats what I thought....I tried that this weekend with everything plugged & coincidentally after checking one of my HD's didn't work & I had to reformat my main HD cause my motherboard didn't recognize how to boot............

(as though it was a new HD & the motherboard had no boot record.)
 
Nebulous said:

That's correct. A 10k 15 turn VR. The VR has 3 legs, you eliminate the 3rd leg which leaves you with the 1st and middle legs of the VR. Use your multimeter to check if the VR is zero-ed out, meaning it's set to 10k. Solder the 1st leg of the VR to th sensor wire and the 2nd leg to ground wire. Jump the psu on with green and black wires from the ATX connector. Use the mutlimeter to test. Set MM to 20v DC and test thru the AUX connector of the psu. Orange wire is the +3.3v rail. Once you start to turn the VR clockwise you'll see the voltage rise. The lower resistance on the VR, the higher the voltage. All you're doing is tricking the psu's sensor into thinking it's not supplying enough voltage therefore it will compensate for it and viola! :D

Same rule applies to the 5v and 12v rails, but to test these you'll have to use a molex connector. Yellow wire is +12v and Red wire is +5v. Black of course is ground.

Ok, I see now. so you used 10k VRs on all three rails? what wattage vr's did you use? Also, the center pin on the vr's connects to the ground (any of the black wires/the casing), or to somewhere else? This seems odd to me if it's to ground as it looks like you're tricking the PSU into thinking there's 0 voltage, regardless, of the vr setting.

Another question. I've never jumped my PSU on before, I assume you would disconnect it from everything before you do it. So you then just short the green and black/ground wires?
 
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Metalwave said:


Ok, I see now. so you used 10k VRs on all three rails? what wattage vr's did you use? Also, the center pin on the vr's connects to the ground (any of the black wires/the casing), or to somewhere else? This seems odd to me if it's to ground as it looks like you're tricking the PSU into thinking there's 0 voltage, regardless, of the vr setting.

Another question. I've never jumped my PSU on before, I assume you would disconnect it from everything before you do it. So you then just short the green and black/ground wires?

Ok, it's simple: Yes i used the same VR on all 3 vmods. This is the VR i got from radio shack. The center pin connects to any black wire to the pcb where all the black wires are in a cluster.

Yes you have to remove the psu and disconnect evrything from it. You get a small piece of wire and thru the ATX connector jump the green and black wires. The psu will turn on.
 
The voltage feedback is suppossed to automatically get the voltages from the PSU to the motherboard to spec. The initial run of Truepowers did need a break-in (I've never had an explanation that I could understand on why) but that should have been fixed long ago.

Physcially I'm in Fremont.

AntecRep
 
AntecRep said:
The voltage feedback is suppossed to automatically get the voltages from the PSU to the motherboard to spec. The initial run of Truepowers did need a break-in (I've never had an explanation that I could understand on why) but that should have been fixed long ago.

Physcially I'm in Fremont.

AntecRep

I meant where did you go. Thought you lost sight of this one.

Why then do the voltage sensors set the voltages too low for most people. Should it not be 12v/5v/3.3v Spot on. I know there is a range I believe its 10% correct me if I am wrong. Don't you think from a design point it should set it slightly high?

Also why when the computer goes under load does it sag more, and the sensors not pick this up and adjust. Is it a real time adjustment, or how does it work?

I don't want you to say that I was overpowering the PSU, as I am running a smaller Enermax that works better. Your specifications on the TP480 provide more power than the 431VE Enermax, yet your rails are lower, and did not adjust properly. Do you have any insight into this?
 
Nebulous said:

The center pin connects to any black wire to the pcb where all the black wires are in a cluster.

oh ok. So I could splice in a connection off one of the black wires coming off the ATX connector (not cut them, just connect a lead to them)? Note that these aren't the thin black wires (which this PSU doesn't seem to have) that some other PSU mods use; they're the normal sized black wires (Pins 3, 5, 7, 13, 15, 16, 17 on the ATX connector)

Sorry if it seems like I'm dragging with this, but I want to have no doubt in what I'm doing. Thnx ahead for your patience.
 
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