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Watercooling COMPLETE (56k)

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Teh_0ni0n

Registered
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Well, After much BLOOD and Sweat my watercooing is finally done. I need to roatae the clamps on the bottom so the windows fit, and at some point drill out the rivets for the hard drive cage holder, and slide the rad into the space. I also need to get the bubbles out. Anyways, Here's pics! (Excuse my crappy webcam()

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EDIT: Also there are more pics, just change the 1.jpg to any number between 1 and 19

EDIT EDIT: Also ignore the tape on the cathode, it's temporary.
 
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Very nice. I see you have the old style NF7. How is that one clocking for you? Ive heard that the old ones are much better
 
It's a nf7-s v 2.0 for you info. I am running the cpu at 200x12 @ 1.7v. It's a mobile 2500.
 
I knew that, I was wonderin about ur FSB speeds. Alot of the newer ones wont go past 220mhz. The old ones went well into 250.

Fortunatly I got a runt. Mine runs just fine @ 250 if I had the RAM to do it.

Either way very nice....

Maybe you could ziptie some of the tubes togerher to make it tidier looking. Also nice choice on the red lights. It looks very nice
 
Hmm, I never tried bumping up my fsb past 200. I have no reason too hehe. It looks tons better in the dark, the blue mixes with teh red and it's sweeeetttt. I've got cold cathode fan grills in the front, i'll take more pics tonight. And zipties are not needed, cause i'm yanking it out in a few days anyways.
 
looks like a nice setup, but you cant sell it here. you need 100 posts to get into the classified section.

how are the temps?
 
Well the block is far from fully tightend, I'm getting 55c full load at 1.75v. Pretty ****.
 
Ok tightend block a bit now running at 43c idle, 47cc full load. I'm running Pump>Cpu>T>Rad>Pump. I seem to have a alot of bubbles. How do I get rid of em.
 
I'd say rearrange it so it goes like this.

Pump>Rad>CPU>T>Pump

You need the T right before the pump intake so it fills the system, and doesn't let the pump suck in air. You have to bleed the system if you have bubbles, so let it run for a bit, and move the system around to dislodge any bubbles if you need to.
 
Well the t is inbewteen the outtake of the waterblock and the rad, so when I fill it it goes through the rad and into the pump. I've heard of many people doing it like this. The only reason to get rid of bubbles is to stop noise coming from pump right??
 
Teh_0ni0n said:
Well the t is inbewteen the outtake of the waterblock and the rad, so when I fill it it goes through the rad and into the pump. I've heard of many people doing it like this. The only reason to get rid of bubbles is to stop noise coming from pump right??

The "T" is OK where it is but, it would work best at the highest point in your system, As for trapped air it can have many bad effects that will lead to lower effectively in your cooling loop, especially if some air gets trapped in your block.
PS I sent you a PM please read it as it could save you a head ache ;)
Stedeman
 
what size piping is that!?

looks huge or do I just not know what 1/2" piping looks like.
 
Looks good!

The position of your tee is good. You can get the bubbles out of your loop faster if you were to turn case on it's side. Then loosen the clamps on the tee and turn it so it points up (with no componnants hooked up of course). Let it run like that for two or three days and keep shaking the rad. You will be all set. After that, just turn the tee back to its origional position and make sure no air goes back down the tee while you reinstall the hardware. Spah.
 
Sweet lord, too much red my eyes, i can't see, i'm blind.

the red catod is too much, ppl (and u ) can be blind from so much red.
 
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