d-tek pro core rad positioning

Hi there,

I was just wondering if the orientation of the rad (on it's side, tank on bottum, parallel tot he ground, ect...) have any affect on it's performance.

I wanted to remount my procore so that the intake tanks are on the floor of my case, so as to facilitate the running of tubing from the intake of my 1250 to the rad.

would this be possible?

i also have a question about CFM through this rad. I am currently only running a 30 cfm 120mm shrouded in a pull configuration, and my temps are getting rediculous with the warmer weather.

with an ambient themp of about 30 degess celcius, my prpcessor will get up to 62 celcius under full load.

I have a barton 2500+ at 2305 and 1.93, so it's putting out over 100 watts at load, so it seems i have a c/w of ~.30.

I'm running 1250 -> d-tek tc4 rev 2 ->5.25 bay rez ->dtek pro core -> 1250

do these temps seem normal considering my less than stellar water block, and given the same values, would i be able to expect a load temperature of about 46 degrees celsius if I got a White Water block?

That would be a lot better, considering i'm about to get a hand picked mobile barton that runs 2600 @ 1.75, so i'm hoping to get it higher with 1.95 - 2.0.

anyways, so yeah, can I turn the pro core "upside down"? and are these temps normal ( i am sure everything is seated properly, it is fully bled ect.....)

thanks !

I would recomend mounting the radiator at the top of your case because it will not heat up the rest of the case and also if you happen to have a pump failure you have a higher chance of not frying your chip. Also it make it easier to get air bubbles out.

how would mounting a rad at the top of my case, thus making it the highest point in the loop make it easier to bleed?

also, i have enough airflow that the rad exhaust doesn't stay in the case for very long at all.

how would having the rad at the top help if my pump died?

am i missing something..?

also, my other questions still remain.

Having the rad at the top of the case WOULD help keep your chip from frying in the event of pump failure because of convection currents from the heated/cooled water.One of the members here ran had his pump fail and didn't know it, but he had the rad mounted in this fashion. He ran the computer for well over a month before he even noticed his pump had failed! So I would recommend the top of the case as well.

As for bleeding, unless you had a bleed valve installed on your rad, it would make it a real pain to bleed your system with the rad mounted in the top of your case IMO.

If you mount the heatercore with the both barbs at the bottom, you will have to bleed carefully to make sure air doesn't get trapped inside the top of the heatercore. If you can mount it on it's side that puts one barb lined up with the pump inlet and the other lined up with a gpu block if you have one. With the barbs up or on side, it is much easier to bleed, but any orientation (and location) will work once the air is bled from the water.

thanks for the replies guys (and or gals)!

i was thinking about convection, just didn't realize it could move that much water. never underestimate physics..

so, assuming that i go ahead with this moble barton, what would be a good waterblock.

right now i'm considering the DD RBX or a WW.

If anyone has a preference, or another choice all together, please let me know

thanks again!

I would recommend bleeding before installing the setup in the case if you plan on mounting the radiator on top.

I would recommend the White Water over the RBX for AMD systems - it provides a more consistent mount according to the article over at ProCooling.

first you said your ambient is 30c ( same here durring summer) which is high . you have a 2500 OCd pretty well which is going to rais temps a bit also especialy based off of your ambient.

personaly i would change the block or at least remount it with care to the paste and equal pressure kept in mind

Cyrix_2k said:

Having the rad at the top of the case WOULD help keep your chip from frying in the event of pump failure because of convection currents from the heated/cooled water.One of the members here ran had his pump fail and didn't know it, but he had the rad mounted in this fashion. He ran the computer for well over a month before he even noticed his pump had failed! So I would recommend the top of the case as well.

As for bleeding, unless you had a bleed valve installed on your rad, it would make it a real pain to bleed your system with the rad mounted in the top of your case IMO.

Click to expand...

I dont think this is possible.
There isnt enough water in the tubes and the tubes are too long to create a convection current in the water.

I'm calling the bluff.

Either way, the top of the case is a good place to mount it, it should cool nicely. Oh, and you dont have to worry about the rad in the front of the case "dumping heat into the system" because the main thing that needs cooling is the CPU, which is cooled by the radiator.

The only problem with having it at the top of the case is the bubble problem. If you dont tilt the case with the barb side up when you start the pump, you will have bubbles in there for a while.

johan851 said:

I would recommend the White Water over the RBX for AMD systems - it provides a more consistent mount according to the article over at ProCooling.

Click to expand...

Hello Johan, remember me
Yes, the WW is better than the RBX.

ok, it's been decided.

i am going to get a whitewater to go with my 1250.

also, i'm getting a mobile barton 2500+, which has been tested to 2600 @ 1.62 vcore actual

here comes 2800! (maybe more!)

i've heard that the WW from d-tek come with a ruff base, just like my tc-4 did, so it'll need a lapping.

anyone know how many millimeters thick the base is?

would i be alright going at it with some 600, and touching it up with some 1200?

I believe it is somewhere between 2-3, but you will probably not need to lap it. DTek has really gotten better with their quality control. The first WWs they made were rough on the bottom, the new ones are supposedly pretty spotless.

and chances are your lapping if you chose to and did it correctly would not go even .2 of a mill

This is proof!!! http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=149115&highlight=pump+fail