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My first WCS---Storm with results

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Wet Neophyte

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Joined
Jul 5, 2005
****Storm with results*****

I'd like to thank SewerBeing, Jas (and whoever else I forgot) for helping pick out this equipment! And for anyone who sees anything wrong that I should fix. Thanks

That cardboard shroud running 92's looks dank at night doesn't it?



I have my 655 riding my Storm's a$$. My cups runneth over.

I did a bleed for an hour and leak tested for a hour. Waiting on my 120's, improvised with two 92mm's with cardboard shroud. I forgot to rub in some new As5 on the Storm so it has whatever As5 the old heatsink left behind.

“Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise.”

Old Heatsink
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=685519&CatId=795
Code:
On old air setup (generic HSF):


CPU-47**(35 game play)***************Mobo-34 Load - 10 minutes of Priming.

Code:
[u]With new STORM:[/u]

CPU-32********************34-Mobo Load - 10 minutes of [u]Dual[/u]-Priming.


I don't have idle temps for my old air setup, but with this new setup it idles at 25CPU/Mobo30. This is my northy which is overclocked from 2.66 to 3.1. Voltage is stock. Haven't really fooled with this chip much.

I know this isn't much priming, but 10 minutes with the old setup was all I had documented on media, so I just ran a 10-min test. Anything past that 10min I presume is anecdotal.

New pictures:
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/5705/d1fm.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3021/e8zo.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/8964/o17ay.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3302/o24fg.jpg

http://img313.imageshack.us/img313/8498/o36xw.jpg

______________________________________________________

http://img307.imageshack.us/img307/7793/c0no.jpg

My camera isn't that great sorry.
 
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You are very welcome and I'm glad you like what you got and that is a huge temp drop (is it the same ambient temp though?). Also very creative pump mounting there :) Also I'm pretty sure you can probably optimize that tubing flow a little if you want however its not needed or recommended. I would recommend however that you find a creative way to secure that pump, I don't think just holding it with the tubing will work in the long run. Also may I ask why you did that except to save some tubing?
 
Thanks SewerBeing
I have a foot of coolflex tubing left(ordered 4ft).....when I read about the Storm it seemed like they wanted the maximum amount of flow filling the cups. I guess I was trying to cancel out all bends in the loop with the tubing. I figured the key to cool temps is to keep the water in the bonny as much as possible and the only way to keep it in there is to use a small amount of tubing/liquid. (for faster recycling times)

it really starts shining in the 1 GPM and above range. In other words, system designers should pay particular attention to the overall system flow rate when integrating the Storm water-block.

In a few days I'll test this loops GPM.....I have a 5gallon bucket with a threaded 1/2" barb in the bottom. ................. I have a question though, There's no info on that red dial on the back of the 655. I turned it but can't hear a difference ........this is when it's quiet and no bubbles are being chopped. I might be running this thin on 1800 rpm :shrug:...........If so I have to pay homage to this setup.
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp655.asp


I have an Aluminum bracket holding the 655 up. Sorry forgot to add.
http://img328.imageshack.us/img328/5148/11110jf.jpg

 
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Turn the red dial all the way to the right, that will be full speed. The D5 is whisper quiet, so good luck hearing any change. Very impressive temps even with the 92mm fans. Should only get better with bigger fans.

Very creative on the tube routing.

My one suggestion would be to remount the Storm block with fresh AS5 for the best results.

And, glad we could help!

EDIT: one more thing to add. It looks liek yo have an X-Connect PSU (I have one, love the thing). What would be pimp woudl be to put soem blue UV dye in your coolant mixture to compliment the blue glow of the cables.
 
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That looks excellent and i love the way you mounted the pump that is genious! I agree with jas put some uv dye in the coolant it would look very nice.
 
not bad at all... but i'm curious as to why you mounted the pump there like that... you're adding ~15w of heat into the water from the pump, which raises the temp of the water entering the CPU block - if you put the pump before the rad so that the water can cool down, you'd shave a couple degrees off your temps
 
Sneaky said:
not bad at all... but i'm curious as to why you mounted the pump there like that... you're adding ~15w of heat into the water from the pump, which raises the temp of the water entering the CPU block - if you put the pump before the rad so that the water can cool down, you'd shave a couple degrees off your temps
Nope wrong. Order of pump rad CPU block is of extremely little importance. Water from out of pump may be .1C warmer than just out of the rad, if that. Plus, he is getting the most pressure to the block in his current config, me likes.
 
I have to agree. Considering the loop reaches an equilbrium, he probably has the most ideal solution for providing max pressure/flow into that block.
 
Thanks guys.... I’m about to do the GPM test today...so Jas, I won't be able to hear it..... but hopefully I am able to see the rise in flow outside when I do this test.

Edit*** yeah, blue that would be big pimp'n instead of this crapp I bought from crazyPC............I'll order this http://www.frozencpu.com/dye-01.html

Yeah, the only downside to that PSU is POWMAX*cringe* but its V's have been good to me and I do love those connectors.

That shroud is leaking air out like a sieve too. I'll redo the As5. I already oxidized my bonny too with city water.
 
nikhsub1 said:
Nope wrong. Order of pump rad CPU block is of extremely little importance. Water from out of pump may be .1C warmer than just out of the rad, if that. Plus, he is getting the most pressure to the block in his current config, me likes.

...and i thought i knew everything :bang head :p
 
Jas said:
I have to agree. Considering the loop reaches an equilbrium, he probably has the most ideal solution for providing max pressure/flow into that block.

flow is equal at all points in the loop. Look at it this way if water is coming out of the pump faster than it is going in (assuming no size changes) then the pump would run on empty very quickly. Also if that were true you would have random jams where the water would slow down and cause a backup so again the flow is equal. Thats another reason why order does not matter.

Everyone please read this: http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/

Edited because nikhsub1 told me I made a mistake and explained it :)
 
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I think he may be losing 25%+ of his potential flowrates. Let me explain myself, first a little background. I am a service technician that works on pools and spas. The brand of spas we sell has been using the AC version of the D5 since 1989. In the pool industry using a 1/2HP-3HP centrifugall pump you always want to allow a certain amount of distance between the pump inlet/outlet and your first restriction.

Example; on a typical 1hp pool pump using 1 1/2" plumbing you need to have a straight piece of pipe a minimum of 10 inches from the outlet, 12 inches being preferred. If you only go say 4 inches and then use a 90 degree elbow to change direction, you can expect an approx. 40% loss in flow. The reson for this is the water is accelerating as it is leaving the pump volute. And adding a restriction so soon is causing a "knee-jerk" action to that acceleration.

Now I have no idea how accurately one can apply this knowledge to a pump that is approx 1/50 HP and has 35"jets" instead of a 90 degree fitting. It is merely food for thought.

I like his idea and effciency, I just want to make sure he is doing the best thing for flow/temps.
 
Travis you do bring up an intersesting point. It is my understanding that it is much much worse to restrict the INLET as opposed to the outlet. The outlet will have restriction no matter what, we just add up the pressure drop of each component. In the above setup, I don't think it makes any difference if he were to have a 12" piece of hose between the outlet and the inlet of the block, after all, even that unnecessary piece of 12" tubing will have some parasitic drag. As you mentioned, unnecessary 90 degree fittings are horrible and should be avoided at all costs. Perhaps a fluid mechanics person can chime in and shed some light for us all on this.
 
Travis I do not think this point applies too much here lets for the moment assume its a linear relationship between the strength of the pump and the length of that accelerating piece (which it probably is not its probably quadratic. So a 1hp pump needs 12" and our D5 pumps are .032hp at peak consumption. So that pump is 31.25 times stronger than our pumps. So assuming its a linear relationship it would be .384" for us. However more data would be needed and I have no faith in these numbers, if you could provide us a little bit more data I would probably be able to build us a fairly accurate model of what we need. If you could tell us what you would use for say two different pump sizes we would have a much better idea of what we need. Also you are using 1.5" while we use .5" which would have an effect on the path also. So if anyone wants to do more testing I would be happy to digest the data.
 
Yes the inlet restriction is much more important as that can cause cavitation which adds noise as well as flow/psi loss. i think an easy way to correlate would be to formulate velocity in the tubing. That way we could come up with an apples to apples comparison/analysis.
 
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