Mobile Athlon problems...

Lightning[983] · Feb 11, 2006

Hey,

Well i recently boung some decent cooling for my mobile athlon rig, and decided to see how far i can push it...
My mobo is Gigabyte 7N400-L0 (nForce2U) so the choices of VCore are Default + 5,7.5 or 10%... not much i know but i managed to get 12.5*205 = 2568Mhz... and my VCore was about 1.73V.

The OC is stable according to Prime95 and S&M... and if i try any higher like 13*200 (2.6Ghz) i get FPU and PSU errors in S&M... (I have a Fortron BluwStorm 500W so that's not a problem...)

so i came to teh conclusion my VCore is too low, and i decided to do something like this and i want some advice from people who actually tried it:
I want to modify my L11 bridges to a start up voltage of 1.7V and L8 bridges to a maximum voltage of 2.0V...

Is that even possibile on a mobile athlon or just on normal desktop chips?

Lightning[983] · Feb 11, 2006

Oh yeah, i forgot to ask... is there a general rule of Mobile Athlon VCore?
i mean something like don't go over x.xx because you'll fry it? or is anything up to 1.9V with decent cooling OK?

The Coolest · Feb 11, 2006

I don't think that the L8 bridges play any role on desktop boards. If you want to reconfigure the L11s, it'll work, but just make sure you do it by desktop scheme as well as the max voltage you can get with bridges on a desktop board is 1.85v.

Lightning[983] · Feb 11, 2006

OK, so the L8 doesn't play a role but i checked and 1.7V is the same L11 coding in the desktop and mobile CPUs so...

The thing is i don't want too much voltage because then i'll have to mod the CPU again, and if i require some more voltage i can raise it by setting my bios to raise it by 10%...

would that work?
And how hard is modding the XP-M bridges? my main concern would be cutting the bridges

The Coolest · Feb 11, 2006

well mobiles by default go to 1.575 on desktops, so you could just close one bridge and get 1.775v and just use that voltage or up it if you need. opening bridges could be dangerous, depending on method used. popping the bridges with electricity sometimes doesn't open the bridge completely and could cause problem, cutting it could be fatal too if you go too deep.
I recommend just adding a little bit of voltage by simply joining bridges, don't risk opening them.

Lightning[983] · Feb 11, 2006

I was thinking the EXACT same thing... i checked and i am defaulting @ 1.575V so i just close 1 bridge and that's it... 1.775 isnt that much right?

Now i researched a little bit into closing the bridges... and most reviews wrote that you have to fill the laser cut hole and then apply conductive something...

Now i was thinking (probably someone thought of this before so), if i use a thin copper wire and glue it to both points of the bridge with arctic silver adhesive (which i think is conductive) would that work?

The Coolest · Feb 11, 2006

There's no need to fill these bridges, it was only required when unlocking the L1 bridges on old AthlonXPs based on palominos. The easiest way is to just use a conductive ink/paint/pen on the bridge.

Lightning[983] · Feb 11, 2006

Really? i read something like that on toms hardware when they wre modding a barton into a mobile barton, but i thought it a special example...

So you're sayign i just need to get some conductive stuff and connect the bridges together? no filling with superglue or stuff like that?

I saw somewhere people use that stuff to repair the window defroster on cars? is that any good?

The Coolest · Feb 11, 2006

Yep all that will work.
I have moded a TbredB (which is the same as barton PCB wise) into a mobile, and didn't have to fill any pits or anything, just painted that bridge and got a mobile chip.

RoadWarrior · Feb 11, 2006

I got a pencil to work on one of my Duron applebreds, just ground it into a couple of open voltage bridges to get a 1.7V default. Doesn't work on palaminos like that though. I also scraped a little at the spots on the bridges and inside them with a needle first to clean off any tarnish or laquer to get good contact.

Lightning[983] · Feb 12, 2006

OK great, as soon as i get some conductive paint or something i'll get on it...
But i just have 2 small questions:

1. What is the tehnological limit of mobile athlon xp's? is 2.7-2.8 on good air cooling a reasonable limit?

2. Is 1.8V too much for a CPU that is rated to run @ 1.45V?

_damien_ · Feb 12, 2006

1. Hitting 2.7 - 2.8 on air is possible, but not exactly something you should expect.

2. No, I'd say that 1.9+ is usually safe on good air-cooling. The lower voltage-rating of the mobiles doesn't reflect the CPU's resiliance to voltage - they just don't require as high voltage to run stable at a given clock because the best cores are hand-picked for the mobile-series. The desktop and mobiles are basically the same cores.

Lightning[983] · Feb 12, 2006

Well at least i'll stabilise my CPU @ 2.6 because S&M fails the FPU test on 2.6 @ 1.74V... 1.775V will probably help...

Now i just have to find something to use to close one of the bridges

Oh, i was just wondering is 48-52°C load temp (while running S&M) too high?

RoadWarrior · Feb 12, 2006

I'd say if you want a tbred or barton to last more than a couple of months you need to keep it below 1.9V no matter how you cool it, the technology is suceptible to a similar phenomena as SNDS.

_damien_ · Feb 12, 2006

RoadWarrior said:
I'd say if you want a tbred or barton to last more than a couple of months you need to keep it below 1.9V no matter how you cool it, the technology is suceptible to a similar phenomena as SNDS.

This sounds like an exaggeration to me. I had my Bartons at 1.9v on crappy aircooling for much longer periods, performing a lot of stress-tests and encoding day and night without any problems. No two CPUs are the same, but from my observations the Tbred/Bartons aren't nearly as exposed to the death syndrome as the Northwoods.

Lightning[983] · Feb 12, 2006

What is SNDS?

Oh and 1.775V isn't really that much, will my mobo have any problems with that? if it's compatible with older Athlons it should be able to give up to 1.9V without problems right?

_damien_ · Feb 12, 2006

SNDS = Sudden Northwood Death Syndrome

Cyrix_2k · Feb 12, 2006

RoadWarrior said:
I'd say if you want a tbred or barton to last more than a couple of months you need to keep it below 1.9V no matter how you cool it, the technology is suceptible to a similar phenomena as SNDS.

never heard of that... my T-bred B ran at 2.1v for years and my current Mobile Barton is running at 1.95v. Both chips have seen close to 2.3v too

Heat kills these things more than anything else; even then I run in the 50's at load without a problem.

Mobile Athlon problems...

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