Finally getting into WC, some answers needed before beginning.

Hello guys, I've been around these forums for almost 2 years now but I'm more lurking than posting . It's been over 16 months since i built my last rig and since i got into computer customization and modding, and I love it. Almost 10 months ago, after my current rig was completely tweaked, I thought about a new project, which would be my ultimate computer.

I am now almost ready to launch this project, which will use of course Water cooling.

The main objectives of this build are:

1) Aesthetics
2) Quietness
3) Overclocking and performance (that will be my first time overclocking too)

I'm looking for some suggestions on points I'm not sure about. If you want to critize or suggest anything about the hardware, water cooling parts or anything I'm writing please do it, I learned more that way than when people say everything is perfect

I'll be using the current hardware:

Lian Li PC-V1200B Plus with full view window (from performance-pcs.com)
E6600
Crucial Ballistix tracer pc6400 ddr2 800 4-4-4-12 (already have)
evga 8800 GTS 320 mb
Silverstone Decathlon 750w or Silverstone Strider 750w (I'm not sure if the decathlon is really better for the price, I just want a powerful/quiet/modular/good looking psu)
WD 250 gb sata 16 mb HDD
Asus p5n-e mobo
Samsung 931c 19" lcd, 1280X1024 res (already got)

I'll be buying all these at NCIX.com, since i live in canada

I'll be using the following Watercooling parts:

Swiftech Apogee GT
EK 8800 GTS block acetal
NB/SB waterblocks? (I know about restriction, but the mobo I'm taking needs some additional cooling when ocing)
Petra's Laing DCC 18w /w custom top (from petra's tech shop) along with the " gel stuff " to hold the pump in place
Black ice gt stealth 360 rad
Black Rad Grill
DD Delrin Fillport
T-line
Yate loon D12SL-12 fans @ 7v
ClearFLEX 60 Tubing 3/8" ID / 5/8" OD
Cool cases usa uv orange coolant

Here's the setup:



Aesthetics

I'm looking for a real clean and professionnal setup.

1) All the wires will be sleeved with green uv reactive sleeving and heatshrink. The wiring job will be as clean as possible.
2) The Orange/Green theme will be respected in the lightning throughout the build. (UV green sata cables and such)
3) I might paint the interior black, to make the uv effect even better.
4) I'll be using some dual UV ccfls of course.
5) This case as a huge window, and I want to make the case look the cleanest possible, even on the bottom part. (the modular psu will help)

And now for a few other bling acessories:

1) Lian-li bezel guage, a temp monitor for the water, which I'll do by putting a temp probe in a closed T-line.
2) I'll install a fan controller to undervolt the fans to 7v, and make the setup quiter.
3) My hdd will stand in a 5,25 slot in a Scythe "quiet drive enclosure"
4) I'll make a custom plate for a 5.25" bezel that will show my project's name with some logo (to be decided)
5) I'll change the front leds (hdd and power, along with power button) to match my color theme.

That's about it. Let me point that this isn't really a modding project, more of a clean build project, because I'm not really skilled when it comes to modify or customize stuff.

Questions for the pros:

1) Where's the best spot for a T-line in my loop, and is my loop in the right order?

2) Should I add a NB or SB Waterblock (those from ek seem perfect), because the p5n-e mobo doesnt even have a sb heatsink or anything?

3) Is the clearflex tubing any good, or should I go with the popular masterkleer or even with the pricy tygon?

4) What paint should I use to paint the inside of the case? Any guide on how to do this?

5) Suggestions, insults? Overkill? (of course!)

Oh, and thanks for your answers

goodgod said:

Questions for the pros:

Click to expand...

I'm not one of those, but I'll answer anyway.

1) Where's the best spot for a T-line in my loop,

Click to expand...

Right before the pump. The pump is the worst place to have air, hence you want to get any major bubbles formed in other components out before the coolant enters the pump.

and is my loop in the right order?

Click to expand...

Order looks good to me.

2) Should I add a NB or SB Waterblock (those from ek seem perfect), because the p5n-e mobo doesnt even have a sb heatsink or anything?

Click to expand...

If your SB doesn't come with a heatsink, the most you're likely to need is a simple copper sink. I'm not familiar with your board, so I don't know if your NB needs more/quieter cooling or not.

If it's very unrestrictive and you have a good pump, a NB block won't hurt your CPU and GPU cooling. It will make your loop a bit more complicated, though. The other (and usually cheaper) option is to use a serious passive aircooler.
http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main_product_hr05.htm
http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main_product_hr05sli.htm

3) Is the clearflex tubing any good, or should I go with the popular masterkleer or even with the pricy tygon?

Click to expand...

Clearflex clouds more quickly than the other two. Tygon is great tubing, but if price matters, get the Masterkleer. It's almost as good at a fraction of the price.

5) Suggestions, insults? Overkill? (of course!)

Click to expand...

Overkill... What's that? Your mother wears combat boots! Tell her I said she's got great legs, and have fun with the build.

Otter said:

I'm not one of those, but I'll answer anyway.


Right before the pump. The pump is the worst place to have air, hence you want to get any major bubbles formed in other components out before the coolant enters the pump.


Order looks good to me.


If your SB doesn't come with a heatsink, the most you're likely to need is a simple copper sink. I'm not familiar with your board, so I don't know if your NB needs more/quieter cooling or not.

If it's very unrestrictive and you have a good pump, a NB block won't hurt your CPU and GPU cooling. It will make your loop a bit more complicated, though. The other (and usually cheaper) option is to use a serious passive aircooler.
http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main_product_hr05.htm
http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main_product_hr05sli.htm


Clearflex clouds more quickly than the other two. Tygon is great tubing, but if price matters, get the Masterkleer. It's almost as good at a fraction of the price.


Overkill... What's that? Your mother wears combat boots! Tell her I said she's got great legs, and have fun with the build.

Click to expand...

I'll check if i can get reviews on the sb/nb waterblocks from ek to know if they are really restrictive. Or find a black passive aftermarket cooler or any good looking cooling solution.

I'll probably go with some Tygon if I can get a good price, because I want my loop to stay clean for a while.

Overkill...I was saying that because some people talk about doing too much in computers build, like in " these two 8800 ultras are way overkill man, you don't need that much power to play solitaire". You knnow what I mean?

Thanks

goodgod said:

I'll probably go with some Tygon if I can get a good price, because I want my loop to stay clean for a while.

Click to expand...

Masterkleer is resists clouding fairly well, and it would be cheap to replace, but if you want the best, get the Tygon.

Overkill...I was saying that because some people talk about doing too much in computers build, like in " these two 8800 ultras are way overkill man, you don't need that much power to play solitaire". You knnow what I mean?

Click to expand...

Course I do. I was kidding about that. But most of us here only mention overkill when the mod is unlikely to yield any practical benefit, and even then only when it's overkill to the point of silliness. Because this is an overclocking forum, increased computing power is seen as an end in itself. Besides, what if you wanted to play several thousand games of solitaire at once, really fast?

I was kidding about your mom too. As far as I know, I've never met her, so I know nothing about her boots or her legs.

Otter said:

I was kidding about your mom too. As far as I know, I've never met her, so I know nothing about her boots or her legs.

Click to expand...

And that is why I love you, Otter.
Just came in here to read, I'll go away now.

I have the P5N32-E SLI

I have the optional fans, from Ebay, was very cheap, for the NB and SB

The copper sink alone was pretty good, I was able to get 3.7GHZ on my E6700 with water, without really trying.

When I really tried to push, I could get 4GHZ, but wasn't Orthos stable. But when I put on the NB optional fans and bumped the voltage to 1.6v, I was able to go beyond 4GHZ. However, it's the Summer, I live in LA, I throttled back down to 1.5v, and I'm at a stable 3.8ghz 24/7 use.

To answer your question in short, it's not overkill. It only matters if you're going high overclock, it helps stability.

SB on the other hand is more RAM and Video card. I haven't had to really bump the voltage on the SB for the video card at all, so it's probably not as necessary. I think the video card poops out regardless of SB voltage. I'm on a XXX XFX 8800 GTX.

As a side note for the SB, it's in some association with the RAM. If you're overvolting your RAM, AND you're overvolting your SB, you may cause not only instability, but may also fry your RAM, just be careful about that.

If you're able to do handy drilling/cutting work, then it'll show on your aesthetics. I think when it comes down to it, it's just your own handiwork. There's no rush, my best advice is tinker while it's still open and find what you like best. Do it right the first time, so you don't have to open it up over and over again.

Putting the T-line sideways between the rad and the pump is the best place for it from an operating standpoint. Bleeding is going to be a PITA but once that's done it'll look very clean and will work fine.


You might consider installing a bleeder on your rad. Or you could keep your rad off to the side while you bleed (making the T-line UP and the GPU the high point) then mount it once the lines are clean ...

goodgod said:

1) Where's the best spot for a T-line in my loop, and is my loop in the right order?

Click to expand...

A loop is the coolest (though probably only 0.25 - 0.5*c) just after the Rad.
T-line goes just before the pump. You may want to put in a drain line too.
Use Tygon R-3603, you'll be happy.
The latest thoughts on tubing sizes:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=147767

Comments: Quiet and overclock are mutually exclusive terms. Your overclock will, eventually, be limited by heat...period. The more heat you remove the more noise it takes....period. That's not to say there isn't some balance point you will be comfortable with.

I'd suggest the D5 pump, there really isn't that much difference in the noise.

Those fans will limit your OCs, especially at 7v. Why not put them on a rheostat. That way you can have better cooling when you need it.

An overlooked option is to add a second pump and rad (With honk'in big fans) on a bypass loop. Just turn it on when you need it. Kind of like two speed cooling.

I'm thinking of getting the AC bullseye res and to mount it on the front, below the 5.25" slots, where the 120mm fan is supposed to be.



If the res is at the same level than the pump, would it be harder to bleed or would it cause any problem?

I really want a quiet system, and I'm not looking to overlock the hell out of this rig, just a small oc to begin, im still learning about it. I'll stick with the modified ddc from petras or ppcs. The Tygon is my choice tho.

thanks for your advice