Hi.
Well I´ve seen HDD die several ways: Most of them secuential clicks, scratching sounds, chip burning like incense sticks and most of them under strict software and smart surveliance. They are 100% fine and somehow just die in seconds. Hope to die same way when the time comes.
So SMART is only usefull if you have an announced death.
Bad sectors is definately the announce I get that makes my wallet cry.
All other software and SMART rely on sensors that are working wrong because of shocks, humidity, etc. I don´t know.
I also got this Airflow temperature issue on one of my two 250 GB ST3250820AS. Guess the airthight seal of this old HDD is compromised. Already 2+ years laughing at the SMART fail prediction. Manufacturers apps are the way to go, however I mostly use HD Tune, always the long test not the quick one.
Lets test both hdds today 21_Jun_2014:
I press the 25ºC temp icon of Hdtune and "No temperature statistics available".
Health: Airflow temp fails .... Current 75, Worst 44, Threshold 45.
Im running an error scan now, my finger thermometer says HDD is just fine, like for a bubblebath with Adriana Lima XD.
This reliable kitchen thermometer on top of the unit reads 32 Celsius.
Finished 249 Gb all sectors green and check thermometer again ... steady 33 Celsius. Back to HDtune s Health tab ... ahaa yes current temp 60 instead of 75. Dropped. haha bullsh.. , it raised 1 C.
I could be making fried eggs on the surface if it was 75 or 60.
Lets compare and check the twin hdd which is flawless.
I press the temp Icon and I get HDD tune details ... current temp 37C.
Lets put the thermometer for 20 minutes till it finishes to scan. All sectors fine too. Thermometer reads 29C.
What can I say one HDD 29C and the other one 33C, standard and acceptable for me.
HDD dont need fans, unless you have a tremendous heat source near.
It never should go over 45 C, inner components can resist spikes up to 60 for a while, but Ill start to degrade.
I hate noise and would rather attach an old cpu PIV dissipation module block for passive cooling than another FAN on the HDD.
The best sensor is you listen it startup, smell the chip PCB board and touch the disk surface yourself. I´ll give you hints right away.
So if you have a bad HDD and need to DIY then...swap or hit.
If it does nothing and is not recognized at OS. The board is done. Get another junk HDD, the exact same model and swap the board. Presto, you get a working HDD to keep. However if you need to get the data back then you first need to check the chip firmware is exact the same. Send the boards to a service where they swap chip info.
If you hear constant click click its the heads that cant find the data and heads must be replaced. Of course same method, get same junk HDD and swap the whole arms with heads. Heads should not touch each other.
After data recovery trash the disk.
If it does not make that acceleration spiiiiiiIIInnn rrtttrtttrtr sound at startup, its well hahah because its not spinning. Most of times the heads are stuck to the plate or the rotor motor is dead. Put your ear at the rotor axis and hear if the motor is alive. Its an electric sound like when you force the drill motor by holding it strong. If you hear it disconnect HDD, get a rubber hammer and hit it on the side as near as to the arm parking position you can. You want to apply enough strenght so the shock releases the superbonder stuck arm. Half the strenght you use with a regular hammer and nail. If it does not release try just once with the drive connected so the rotor helps to unstuck it. If not, then you have to open the drive and do it manually avoiding to scratch the disk surface. Recover data trash the disk.
Thanks for reading, hope it helps, all info is search-engine-able.
