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More cooling build :)

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lol, and thats with no name paste from swiftech as well that MAY be some air in his block, not sure yet. well see how the Dtek Fuzion compares once i'm done with this block.

img0320oci.jpg
 
Thanks for testing the block for me. Glad you are liking the results. If the block is turned which I think it is, then you may have some air left in it. How is your block coming along? I have a very strange design coming along right now. Rumbl3 was laughing at me today on how I am constantly making blocks. I also noticed that you have almost all the same WC parts that I do, you just have more of them, LOL. Good to see the system up and running. Your system looks great BTW, the 2nd case on the wall looks cool.
 
thanks, ya i'm not done testing your block just yet, will try for 3 overclocks and voltages. just need to sort out this stupid hdd crap.

as for my block i don't think i will be doing anything until i heal up this cut, need to keep it clean and metal from the lapping won't be to good for it. but i am curious to see how the heatpipes will work out.
 
As far a HD goes, I have always had good luck with Western digital, I will only buy them now and I haven't had any fail on me yet.
 
hey spawnany reason that theres almost a 10c diff from core0 and core3? manged to drop my temps 8-10c but cant go under 1.45vcore
 
OK now I feel whooped on the orderly, logical and functional front.

I feel inspired to source some fast couplings and get tweaking ;)

Top stuff Spawn :clap:

time to light the celebratory fireworks!
air bomb.jpg

still got a full rack of fingers then? #Chuckles#
 
got all fingers working, just can't get the 1 wet for a week or 2.

if ball valves didn't cost like 7-8 per valve i would have sodlered 2 valves on each side of the shut off's to make it easier to take apart and so i wouldn't have to drain it all.
 
sorry for the long time it took to get you guys some temp results but here are my temps with 5 tests using cadman's block. overall temps didn't go above 55C. tests where 10 minutes each.

tests are as follows.

1. stock clocks - p95 - 10 minutes
2. stock clocks - IBT - 10 minutes
3. 3.5GHz 1.4v - p95 - 10 minutes
4. 3.5GHz 1.4v - IBT - 10 minutes
5. 3.99GHz 1.6v - p95 - 10 minutes













i will be then testing my block, then my dtek and maybe make a chart with all 3 sets of temps.

then put back my 9800GTX in.
 
I think after looking at your pictures of your setup we all understand why it would take you some time to fill or drain your system. LOL. I really appreciate your help. Can't wait to see your results with the other design.
 
thanks guys, finished testing my homemade block and it didn't turn out to well. i think it was mainly due to the mounting system.

here are the temps i got with it. i forgot to mention that my ambient temps are about 20C during the tests

same tests as the first round

1. stock clocks - p95 - 10 minutes
2. stock clocks - IBT - 10 minutes
3. 3.5GHz 1.4v - p95 - 10 minutes
4. 3.5GHz 1.4v - IBT - 10 minutes
5. didn't make it at 3.99 GHz, BSOD.









i will try and do the same tests tomorrow and compile a chart or something to show the differences. then i can finally add my gpu back and see whats what for my final temps and see if it was worth the 300 i spent to do this mod. at least i can say i'm part of the $1000 water cooling club lol.


and here are some pics of the blocks and how well the contacted the cpu.

img0325y.jpg


img0321r.jpg


img0322g.jpg
 
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Terrific effort!

Even if you didn't get the results you wanted, the whole effort you put in was way, way above average! I have a lot of respect for people who roll their own watercooling gear, kudos!

I have made a lot of blocks that didn't do as well as I hoped too, but I still had fun and learned a lot.
 
got all fingers working, just can't get the 1 wet for a week or 2.

if ball valves didn't cost like 7-8 per valve i would have sodlered 2 valves on each side of the shut off's to make it easier to take apart and so i wouldn't have to drain it all.
Yes, the valves would help (been there myself) but also can restrict flow. Another good speed tip is if you can get a big enough res 'above the pump' to hold more than the system's capacity. That way it can just start pushing in the water and you don't have to add any. By 'big' I mean like this one that is over half a gallon ~liter.
00_00623.jpg
 
Hehe I remember reading the article that pic is from Owen. (and many others of yours) My choice for a large, easy to make and durable res is a length of 1 1/2" PVC pipe as long as you want it then cap the bottom with an endcap and cap the top with a threaded PVC endcap for filling. Then you just need some barbs and a cheap tap of the same thread.
 
i would only use ball valves if i did use them as they don't really reduce flow. i can get gate valves which would be the next best thing, for a couple bucks less, but i would just go with ball vales for the ease of shutting and turning off.

will try to post my results with the dtek block only using the same swiftech paste as i did with the other blocks.
 
i would only use ball valves if i did use them as they don't really reduce flow. i can get gate valves which would be the next best thing, for a couple bucks less, but i would just go with ball vales for the ease of shutting and turning off.
Any fitting will reduce flow compared to the same length of tubing, but you can reduce the losses by sizing the fitting a little larger.

If they are not just for drains I'd use ball valves that have a ball inner dimeter (port size) as close to 1/2" as possible.

EDIT: The description you want to look for is a Full Port ball valve. That will have the largest inner diameter for the equivalent pipe size.
 
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