Need to purchase tubing and additives...

I am about to set up my first WC loop using parts I purchased here: D5 pump, Bonny heatercore, and MC-TDX block.

The only thing I need is to buy tubing and a fluid additive, but now I'm a little stuck with questions:

1) Is PVC tubing the same as the junk in hardware stores? I would think petras wouldn't describe/sell junk, but it seems too good to be true (save ~$20).

2) If all my components use 1/2" fittings, are there too many cons with going with 7/16" ID tubing to save $0.50/ft for PrimoChill PrimoFlex? I hear it's tighter seals, but you might have to cut the tubing to remove it...

3) Are all biocides created equal? Mayham vs Petra's Cu vs Petra's PHN? I think I rather not use a kill coil.

I use Primoflex on two different rigs with zero complaints.

There would be no real drawback to using slightly smaller ID tubing to add a bit of safety. I would still strongly suggest you use clamps as I have had tubing work its self loose due to vibration.

Why do you not want to use a kill coil? I use one in both rigs with zero issues and I highly doubt it adds much if any obstruction to the flow.

Additivewise, PT nuke or similar is all I would add if you are running pure distilled. I have always tried to the premise of KISS whether it was in my aquariums or elsewhere. I have seen firsthand on more then one occasion where reliance on an additive ends up causing more work. This doesnt exactly apply to WCing but again the premise holds true (Dye issues).

Petras PT is what he made years ago, still good. His PHN is best for distilled only loops. Kill coils work, but I use KC and PHN, PHN by itself is enough. One bottle will last a longgg time, 4 drops per liter, a loop is 1-1.5 liters.

Adragontattoo said:

Why do you not want to use a kill coil? I use one in both rigs with zero issues and I highly doubt it adds much if any obstruction to the flow.

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Because, uh, it costs 7 bucks? lol... This is a LOW budget loop. Heck, low budget computer.

Conumdrum said:

Petras PT is what he made years ago, still good. His PHN is best for distilled only loops. Kill coils work, but I use KC and PHN, PHN by itself is enough. One bottle will last a longgg time, 4 drops per liter, a loop is 1-1.5 liters.

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I probably will go with the PHN since I will be running only distilled water. I don't wander in the WC section much, but I always read 'DISTILLED ONLY'.

RE: Tubing, I wanted to do the Primoflex from the start since it came so highly recommended, but could only find 10' for $34 shipped... But I just googled it, and found an Amazon vendor was selling a 10' section for $16.25 shipped. It's even the right color. Thankfully I don't have to cheap out on the tubing; I went to Lowes and that tubing SUCKS.

Thanks guys. Hopefully my next thread will be "Look at my first WC loop".

Would it make sense that a low budget PC would be air-cooled instead?

I just use 6" coiled silver strips in each of my loops, so far so good. They were sold as strips instead of coils and were a little cheaper than the I&H ones... I thought I got them from FrozenCPU... hmm...

Been there, done that. Always wanted to try watercooling, so when I saw the $60 CPU loop, I had to jump on it.

Another reason I wanted to use biocide instead of a silver strip was because I am going to use a T-line, so I don't exactly have a 'nice' place to put the coil. I figure you could stick it in the tubing and it shouldn't go past the barbs, but I rather not have to worry about it getting sucked up/stuck. Plus, I read about how algae could grow in stagnant sections of water that do not flow over the kill coil; I figure the biocide should have everything covered.

Bio from Petra has always worked for me. So can't go wrong in my book or what I have read for a few years. Seen a few over-done applications, just follow the bottle. Err the Petra bottle instructions........

Received the Primoflex today. I'm wondering if the deal was too good to be true (about half the price vs other online retailers). I never played with Primoflex before, but it does seem much nicer than the Lowe's junk. Like, at very tight radii, the tubing slowly looses shape instead of just completely folding in on itself. Plus, the tubing is actually round.

Too bad school starts tomorrow and I have a dumb retreat I need to attend this weekend...

Received biocide and T today from Sidewinder. Also, leaving for the weekend in T minus 1.5 hours.

I also ordered a foot of Durelene PVC tubing 1/2in. ID x 5/8in. OD by Saint-Gobain. It is surprisingly soft, which I suppose is bad since it kinks very easily with its thin sidewalls. I suppose the coils/zipties might help? Will play with it more when I get back.

can't remember who was saying this, but someone said the 5/8" od stuff will take tighter turns than the 3/4" if you use an assload of antikink

ever since i found out about it i've used nothing but masterkleer tubing, 7/16"x 5/8" OD. it's great stuff and very cheap, 10 feet for $4.90 at jabtech, http://www.jab-tech.com/Masterkleer-Tubing-7-16-ID-5-8-OD-pr-3079.html

but i guess i'm a little late to the party.

neonblingbling said:

Received biocide and T today from Sidewinder. Also, leaving for the weekend in T minus 1.5 hours.

I also ordered a foot of Durelene PVC tubing 1/2in. ID x 5/8in. OD by Saint-Gobain. It is surprisingly soft, which I suppose is bad since it kinks very easily with its thin sidewalls. I suppose the coils/zipties might help? Will play with it more when I get back.

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With thin-walled tubing you need to use SmartCoils or something similar. I use the thin-walled for all internal runs that have tight turns because you can keep it perfectly round - but it does take SmartCoils for added support.

Any you're right, it's very soft. Once it's full of water the feel reminds me of dry jello ...