Athlon XP 2500

[Silver_Pharaoh]

Nice!

I had a Sempron to OC, but I killed it by slashing all L6 bridges to unlock the multiplier. Turns out there are 4 conductive pats between the L6 bridges and I cut them so now it's dead

NOT good, I have shaky hands & have trouble trying to cut those little traces.

On the other hand, I am able to run my old Duron at 1015 Mhz, stock is 750 Mhz so not bad.

2 volts Vcore is a lot, that's how I damaged my Duron. (the one above)

Yes it is, it runs real cool even when stressing so I hope it will hang in there. I do have another 2500M Barton if needed.


EDIT: Want more overclock? Here, then look for this: "Interactive XP painting guide - AMD XP CPU overclocking via bridges"Nice link, Thanks. I tried going to 13x200 but it took me back to 13x166 so maybe I can find something in here to let me go 13x200.

Yeah, keep looking. That site has lots of info for these old cpu's.

 

[Dr. McCoy]

Feel free to pop in here as well, lots of info on Socket A's: https://www.classicplatforms.com/~classicp/forum/

I can say with Socket A, 2.0v's is what I normally use for going EXTREME with my clocks as in a pure suicide run. Anything over 2.0v's or so even with terrific cooling does nothing more than heat up the chip with no real gains seen. Always try to use the least amount of voltage needed for it to run at a given clockspeed with stability. If you chip is needing that much voltage to simply reach what you've shown, you either have a problem somewhere or a dog of a chip.

Here's an example of what I'm getting at, done with 1.85v's set in the BIOS for the CPU and it's one of mine: http://hwbot.org/submission/914469_bones_wprime___32m_athlon_xp_m_2800__60sec_20ms

 

[Mr.Scott]

EDIT: Want more overclock? Here, then look for this: "Interactive XP painting guide - AMD XP CPU overclocking via bridges"

If you have the right processor, you can unlock the multiplier with pencil! (My Duron was harder, it is ceramic, not PCB so I had to use a scribe to cut my bridges )

Bridge mods don't work on NF2 chipsets.
Only the L12 mod is recognized.

Fixed the good doctors link.
http://classicplatforms.com/forum/

 

[Silver_Pharaoh]

Bridge mods don't work on NF2 chipsets.
Only the L12 mod is recognized.

Fixed the good doctors link.
http://classicplatforms.com/forum/

Ahh, Mr.Scott!

Bridge mods don't work on the Nf2's? That sounds odd...

 

[freeagent]

2v should be fine as long as you can keep it cool. Stretching it's legs to 2.2-2.3v is ok too

 

[Dr. McCoy]

Bridge mods don't work on NF2 chipsets.
Only the L12 mod is recognized.

Fixed the good doctors link.
http://classicplatforms.com/forum/

Hmmm... The linky I posted seems to work but I did copy it from my bookmarks.

I haven't seen anything worth pushing it much past 2.0v's for any reason... unless you're talking about a chip that can run under DICE or LN2 and those are very rare with Socket A since those chips are terrible about having a cold bug. However if it works, why not?

Yes, bridge mods are mostly ineffective with an NF2 chipped board, that's just how it is.

 

[papadan]

I can say with Socket A, 2.0v's is what I normally use for going EXTREME with my clocks as in a pure suicide run. Anything over 2.0v's or so even with terrific cooling does nothing more than heat up the chip with no real gains seen. Always try to use the least amount of voltage needed for it to run at a given clockspeed with stability. If you chip is needing that much voltage to simply reach what you've shown, you either have a problem somewhere or a dog of a chip.

Hi, Yes I had been running at 1.85 most of the time but just bumped it up to 2.0 to start seeing what I could get out of it. I really haven't tried to see what I really need at this freq.

Here's an example of what I'm getting at, done with 1.85v's set in the BIOS for the CPU and it's one of mine: [COLOR="Yellow"]NICE:clap: The 60sec, 20ms was that the actual time of the run?[/COLOR]

 

[papadan]

Thanks for the info. Mr. Scott, I guess I won't be trying much with the bridges.

 

[papadan]

Ahh, Mr.Scott!

Bridge mods don't work on the Nf2's? That sounds odd...

Sounds like it's my board problem, oh well

 

[Mr.Scott]

The L12 mod will get you a little more FSB.
So will a good modded bios. BTW, What bios are you running?
I can help you with that. I have hundreds of modded bios for most all old school boards and platforms.
Any mods on your board yet? VDD mod will net you more NB volts and thus more FSB yet. This can be done with just a #2 pencil and a DMM.

 

[papadan]

2v should be fine as long as you can keep it cool. Stretching it's legs to 2.2-2.3v is ok too

I think it will be ok, It is running very cool. Stays in the 30s when not stressing. The FETs don't even get too hot.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Sounds like it's my board problem, oh well

Nope. The NF2 boards are far superior to any other chipset for socket A. You just need a little tweaking.

I think it will be ok, It is running very cool. Stays in the 30s when not stressing. The FETs don't even get too hot.

Idle temp means nothing. Load temp for socket A should be kept below 50c for best results.

 

[papadan]

The L12 mod will get you a little more FSB.
So will a good modded bios. BTW, What bios are you running?
I can help you with that. I have hundreds of modded bios for most all old school boards and platforms.
Any mods on your board yet? VDD mod will net you more NB volts and thus more FSB yet. This can be done with just a #2 pencil and a DMM.

Hi, I am running manta ray xt D26. I might try the L12 but my shaky hands could cause problems.

Dan

 

[papadan]

Nope. The NF2 boards are far superior to any other chipset for socket A. You just need a little tweaking.


Idle temp means nothing. Load temp for socket A should be kept below 50c for best results.

The board has been great for many years. I'm going to see what I can get out of it.

Dan

 

[Mr.Scott]

Hi, I am running manta ray xt D26. I might try the L12 but my shaky hands could cause problems.

Dan

Good all around bios.
Hard modded L12 might help a little, but that bios already has the L12 soft mod included, so I really wouldn't bother.
Look into the VDD pencil mod. NB at 2.0v with active cooling will really help your FSB climb. 230-270 range is what you'll be looking for if you have ram that can handle it. Remember, never ever run socket A's on a divider, always 1:1. Divider just kills performance.

 

[papadan]

Good all around bios.
Hard modded L12 might help a little, but that bios already has the L12 soft mod included, so I really wouldn't bother.
Look into the VDD pencil mod. NB at 2.0v with active cooling will really help your FSB climb. 230-270 range is what you'll be looking for if you have ram that can handle it. Remember, never ever run socket A's on a divider, always 1:1. Divider just kills performance.

Lots of good info, Thanks Mr. Scott

 

[Mr.Scott]

Anytime bro. Any questions, just ask.
That NF7 board is one of the top 3 socket A clocking boards of all time. Have fun with it.

 

[freeagent]

The NF7-S with the mobile 2500 was legendary. It was my first hotrod, and it pretty much set the bar for what we have today, at least that's my opinion. There were others that made pretty good boards too, but abit made it headache free. Too bad they dropped the ball on nf4, and the rest is history.. I fed a tbred 2600 wich didn't scale well, and a 2500 mobile that scaled like crazy quite a bit if voltage during the winter months, with fans everywhere inside the case lol. I enjoy the silence these days

 

[Mr.Scott]

The NF7-S with the mobile 2500 was legendary. It was my first hotrod, and it pretty much set the bar for what we have today, at least that's my opinion. There were others that made pretty good boards too, but abit made it headache free. Too bad they dropped the ball on nf4, and the rest is history.. I fed a tbred 2600 wich didn't scale well, and a 2500 mobile that scaled like crazy quite a bit if voltage during the winter months, with fans everywhere inside the case lol. I enjoy the silence these days

DFI LP Ultra B
DFI Ultra Infinity
Abit AN7
Abit NF7-S

These are the cream of the crop for socket A. I still have all of them.

 

[Silver_Pharaoh]

I think it will be ok, It is running very cool. Stays in the 30s when not stressing. The FETs don't even get too hot.

Take it from a pro, (Mr.Scott) and a noob (me) Never go over 50 with those A's.
It's how I killed my Duron, (Mr.Scott remembers )

Even with Arctic Silver 5, my Duron today still goes to 52 under full load (maybe I didn't put enough on?)... That's still pushing my already damaged chip.