Blockage in wb.

[johnm]

Blockage in a new WB no metric allen wrench.
SB system was working normal with 75c on Ib with 1.375vcc at 46ghz
Replaced a old danger den wb with a Swift Apogee Rev 2.$59
Still using a chevette heater core got 3 free years ago.
Ehiem 1250 GPH-320 pump rebuilt the pump last year.
I replaced all lines and checked for dirt in pump which was clean.
Added 1 45 angled enzotech fitting on outlet.
With the new Rev 2. Loop wont take a good prime too much pressure at WB.
While holding wb to the faucet inlet water will only comes out 1 inch on outlet.

Question could it be possible that there was blockage in block before installing it.
Question What are the odds that dirt from my core clogged the block.
There was no dirt in the in drained water pump was clean. radiator dirt ?
I have almost the same cooling in my 1366 except I got orig Apogee,core and d4 up for two years.
Problem Solved Dirt build up in radiator.
Only the 3rd time I removed radiator and flushed in sink since 2004.
Changed water every 6 months also.
I need to get back to the flushing.
Thanks

 

[m0r7if3r]

So...you're asking if your block is clogged? Your post is rather disjoint...

 

[johnm]

After I posted I flushed the radiator and enough dirt came out to clog a wb.
The wb got blocked from lack of flushing on my part.
Now I need to get a metric wrench to take apart the wb to clean it out.

 

[m0r7if3r]

So the question is what size wrench?

 

[Conumdrum]

Yep, you need a wrench. You should open, inspect, and clean a CPU block every year.

And yea, thats pretty hard to read.

 

[johnm]

There is a only a small amount of tiny lint and mirco hairs on inlet no solid plastic or solid dirt in the new R-2 block.
Blowing air through this R-2 is harder then other wb.
Had the loop running for a hour but it couldnt get out a inch air gap on the return line to the inlet and tee. no matter how i turned the case.
Since 2003 I never ever had any problem refilling any loop till now.
My Pump are always mounted a even distance between the cpu and radiator or a 120 mm from pump out to radiator and 120mm cpu to pump.
I replaced a large dia. ss tee with cheap plastic tee bad idea for fill line.
Try again later

 

[muddocktor]

johnm, you will probably need to upgrade from your Eheim 1250 pump, as it doesn't have enough head pressure for more restrictive waterblocks and your flow rate is probably pretty low in your loop. The Apogee XT is a lot more restrictive than your old DD block. I would suggest a pump such as a Laing DDC3.2 or 3.25, Swiftech MCP355 or MCP35X or MCP655. Not cheap but are good pumps and 12v too, so you no longer have to worry about getting 110v AC into the computer. I have an Eheim 1250 sitting in a box too. Also, a bigger rad would do wonders too and that might be the problem instead of the pump. That 930 in your sig outputs some really serious heat and I doubt that a Chevette heat core is up to giving good temps unless you are running some unGodly loud fans with really serious cfm and static pressure. Upgrade to a 77 Bonneville heater core, which will mount 2-120 mm fans and is roughly equal to a store-bought 120.3 rad.

 

[johnm]

SB is only used as web pc that wife uses 1-2 hrs a week but yes it desperately needs a cooling upgrade.
To avoid pressuse dirt what ever problems I added a single bay reservoir.
I like tee lines over reservoirs for many reasons.
My loop primes right up but there is no noise at or big spalshing in the reservoir that was strange.
So I found out what out what lack of head pressure means even if I read you post first I still would have have ran it off.

Had a Bonneville but it was brass not copper so i sent it back last month.
Had that old DD block in my 1366 with a D4 and many op suggested updating my DD wb which I did and only ended up with 3-5c cooler or 50c in games. {poor radage}
What I wanted to do is first add a new wb check out the temps then add a MCR220-QP in front bays.
What I should to is buy a halfx case and a MCR320 with a d5 and start all over.
Would you gain any more pressure with a MCP655 speed controller as with out.
Thanks for your help muddocktor

 

[muddocktor]

The MCP655 Vario (actually rebadged Laing D5 Vario) does have more flow and pressure than the fixed speed MCP655. The fixed speed model flows like the Vario on the "4" setting. And I see this is for the 2500k system and not the Heat Monster, so you can probably get by with the Chevette heater core for a while. But don't expect wonderful temps even with the new waterblock because you can only remove so much heat with that rad, no matter the waterblock. As for the Bonnie heater cores, brass isn't bad for a rad and won't react with the copper block. Now an aluminum rad would have electrolysis problems though, but that isn't an issue with the Bonnie heater core. And they make 2 different version of the 77 Bonnie heater core. I just recently replaced one that was leaking and I bought the one for a 77 with AC, which is just a tad narrower and longer than the one for a Bonnie without an AC. And the tubes on it were copper, IIRC. But the MCR220 is a good rad too and should do well with that 2500k with some Yate Medium fans.