Wow this looks like an exciting build. Can you please post a list of the planned hardware for the PC you intend to cool, as well as including what you have or do not have currently. I have a lot of feedback for you, and I intend it all in a very positive light. I remember how exciting but also how daunting it was to plan my first loop. If someone here suggests that something might not work, it's not that we're trying to be negative, only trying to make the process go as smoothly for you as possible. Most importantly, remember to have fun.
When I went to design my first WC build last year, I was excited to see so many cases with radiator compatibility listed, and essentially assumed that if it could fit a rad, it was a good case for a custom loop. Some Senior members here gave me the excellent advice to think bigger.
Is the H210 a case you already own, or one you're planning on purchasing? I would look at getting a larger case specifically oriented towards a custom loop. Trying to fit a custom loop into that case will be a challenge. Furthermore trying to fit enough radiator into that case for a CPU + GPU loop is going to be next to impossible.
I've never heard of signature before, but that's cool to see another player in the game!
For fittings I would suggest compression fittings vs barb and clamp. They simply look much better. I know they are expensive, but in the end I think you'll appreciate the appearance of it. There's nothing technically wrong with barbs as long as you use the appropriate size (true for any fitting) and some kind of clamp, though.
Pump and Reservoir Combo...
First option is RGB, do you want it or not. Next is PWM. PWM is nice for increasing loop flow as loop temperature increases, but that doesn't have a huge impact on performance. I prefer the D5 Vario, which can be adjusted and set with a screwdriver. This makes filling your loop easier as you can run it slow during filling, and then adjust the speed back and forth to help eliminate bubbles. If the PWM pump is controlled by the motherboard, you won't be able to control the pump speed during filling and leak testing. If you want to go the Vario route, it looks like you might actually spend a bit more because it's not a combo. You'd need the
res and pump top,
pump, and
mounting hardware.
Blocks in general, especially GPU blocks, all have pretty good performance. I wouldn't worry about which full coverage block got a couple C better in one test. In other words, I think the EK block would be just fine, EK makes great GPU blocks. The ever important junction temp is going to depend on mounting technique and paste application more than block design.
It is important to note that the block appears to be designed for reference PCB only. Most blower cooler design cards should fit it, but double check their compatibility listing. The AIB manufactures (ASUS, MSI etc) use different PCB designs across the range of their cards, both reference (based on the AMD release version) and custom ones. In other words, the specific model of graphics card that you have will determine what (if any) GPU block will work with it.
HL rads are great, as are Alphacool (although they tend to require more cleaning, but you should clean all of your rads anyway). Is your depth measured to include fans or not? Rads usually come in 30mm, 45mm, and 60mm thickness. With a 38mm space you'll need a 30mm rad such as the Hardware Labs Blaack Ice Nemesis GTS.
There are two guidelines for determining how much radiator capacity a loop will require. One is 120mm for each water cooled component or 240mm for each overclocked water cooled component. By this measure, the 240mm would be adequate for a CPU+GPU loop with ZERO overclocking. However I believe a more useful metric is to use 120mm per 100W that needs to be cooled. The 5700xt is a 225W card stock and that would increase if OCd. Meanwhile most CPUs are between 100W and 150W stock and increase when OCd. With this latter metric we see that optimally, a 360mm rad would be ideal, even with no overclock.
No idea, I just use needle nose for similar hose clamps on my car, but it's a lot more clumsy and the downsides of slipping are a lot lower in an engine compartment.
I use EK cryofuel clear. I would avoid any colors, and use what the block manufacturer suggests. You can also use PT nuke and distilled water, or a silver kill coil and distilled water. It's important to note, however, that there are two kinds of PT nuke. One contains copper sulfate, the other benzalkonium chloride. If you have nickel plating in your loop, it is advisable to avoid using silver or copper sulfate in the loop, leaving only the benzalkonium based ("Petra's PT Nuke) as an ideal option.
You must use flexible / soft tubing with barbs. You should be able to use something like
this. Some people have reported issues with the box staining their tubing though with this brand. I would suggest ordering it from
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ from their bulk supply to avoid this problem (I would link directly but their site doesn't want to load rn).
I hope this helps you get started. Good luck and have fun!
