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Cutting Acrylic

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Warren G

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Location
California
I just got a piece of acrylic window for my mod from Home Depot today. I wanna cut out some holes to mount fans on. Whats the best tools/way to cut out the hole?
 
Hi
Is it acrylic or plexi glass the not the same
plexi is a bit harder to cut without cracking

I use a jigsaw for both with a fine tooth blade
22 per inch
also if ya have some srap thin board (wood,ply,MDF) clamp that to the plexi/acrylic and cut both the board n plexi/ acrylic where ya gonna cut it helps to stop it splitting and just take it stedy
oh and have the board on top cos the saw dose the work on the up stroke
Good Luck
Borgy
 
hmm its acrylic but i got it in the plexi glass section. would a dremel work? also, if i wanted to cut holes, can i use a drill? (and put on the circle saw)
 
save yourself all the worrying about cracking it and get your self some Lexan, i tried my hardest to crack it and still cant it, its like rubber glass.
 
BinarySuperman said:
save yourself all the worrying about cracking it and get your self some Lexan, i tried my hardest to crack it and still cant it, its like rubber glass.

I second that. I've had nothing but crap from anything but Lexan. Trouble with generic plexy, all the way up to Lucite.

For a hole, if you've got the money, nothing beats a hole saw. NOTHING. Hole saw bell (3" for 80mm hole) - ~$20. Hole saw arbor - ~$20. ~$40 is alot for one size hole, but if you want to make 120mm holes too, you can buy just a 120mm (4.75") bell for ~$20 more and use the same arbor.
 
I'll third that :D

I use lexan as well. It makes a huge difference when cutting or drilling. I also use what's been stated so far. A circle cutter for holes and a jigsaw with a fine blade for straight/curved cuts. If all you have is a dremel, it will work, but the lexan will melt itself back together from the heat generated. You may have to cut and clean in small steps. The edges may also require some touch up with a flapper wheel or buffer.
 
I third....oops

nah, I don't, sorry boys but I have to disagree. I used acryllic plastic, and I've had ZERO problems using a dremel with 24 TPI (teeth per inch) It was going through the acryllic like a hot knife through butter, with the smoothest cut possible too. but when you almost finish a cut,t he acryllic will start to shake alot. thats when you need to either clamp it down, or get someone to help you cut it.

Yes, a dremel will work, but I don't reccomend it, You'll kill alot of cuitting wheels, when you can do the job with a jigsaw in a few seconds
 
shauns said:
Lucite has NEVER broke on me never cracked, and i used a dremel to cut it =P

A Dremel isn't a jigsaw. =\

I can be rough as heck with Lexan, I've never had a sheet break on me. I've come at a sheet quickly with a jigsaw, so quickly the bit popped out, but the Lexan remained intact.

Conversly, the only two times I tried cutting generic plexi with a jigsaw, it shattered instantly, never even got a chance to cut, it just blew up on impact.

The Lucite was better, at least I could cut it. But when I was half way through with the cut, it split accross to the other side, ruining the piece.
 
well i will admit lexan is better its not quite as scratch resistant but it has hell of impact resistance. acrylic can be done with a bit of care. i have managed to split/crack every acrylic window ive tried to cut BUT the were all being cut at weird angles and i didnt break it till right neer the end using a fine tooth metal cutting blade in my jigsaw at low speed. cut it on something and you will be fine. if you have a ban saw it isnt to hard. and i cut acrylic on my table saw all the time without any trouble.(my resiviors and such)
 
shauns said:
Lucite has NEVER broke on me never cracked, and i used a dremel to cut it =P

i used lucite too ... no problems at all .. thoguht the cut was smooth
$10 canadian for a sheet a bit bigger than a full tower
 
PlexiGlass is an inaccurate term and 90% of the time refers to thicker grades of acrylic.

Acrylic is made for window treatments where image clarity is more important than impact resistance. It's also used where abrasion resistance is very import, such as display cases. Therefore it is used for green houses and some types of triple layer energy efficient windows. It's not that great for tooling simply because it melts easily (at which time it may give of toxic fumes, I know because it gave me the worst headache I've ever had).

The same easily meltable properly allows it to be thermally warped at lower temperatures than polycarbonate. But this should be attempted outside of a professional level or controlled circumstances because it is EXTREMELY dangerous to heat acrylic.

Lexan (Polycarbonate) is made for impact resistance but is much easier to tool because of it's low abrasion resistance. I highly prefer it because it won't give me brain damage if I accidentally melt it while cutting. It flexes without cracking too.


As far are cutting, abrasive discs will melt either material unless ou use the lowest speed possible.
I recommend using a jigsaw and a metal-smooth cut blade to get the best edges on your cuts. And you have to go as slow as you can to avoid melting the two piece back together. BUT LEAVE THE STATIC PAPER ON. Both materials can get scratched from tooling so the protective sheeting needs to do it's job.

McMaster.com sells Acrylic and Lexan in a variety of shapes, thicknesses, sizes, colors and tints for comparably good prices. (as versus Home Depot or Lowes which only stock building code standard sized sheets at 1/8" thickness).
 
ONE TIP i'll share that cost me $500 to learn - i've built a couple of experimental aircraft, and the second one had one pc acrylic canopy that came with the kit, while it was molded to the shape needed for the canopy frame i had to build it was oversize - after each cut i'd take it back to the frame to see how it fit, take it back to the worktable shave some more off. On the final shave, as i was carrying it, it was about 40" in length by 35" or so in width and i was carry it by holding in the front center and rear edge center, so the sides were flapping a little - on that final shave on the way back to the canopy frame, it cracked in my ****ing hands.

The kit mfgr gave me the canopy supplier and he told me before moving it, to shave the edges that i'd cut with the back edge of a hacksaw blade (ie not the tooth edge) and use that blade like a draw knife - and to scrape it until there were no cut or saw marks. He said the cut marks are like stress risers in metal, and will start a crack.

fwiw
 
Thread is from 2002.. wowzas!

somebody new to the forum will stumble into reading it the way i did - i still grumble that the kit mfgr hadn't put that tip in the construction manual about shaving the edge of cut acrylic
 
Acrylic Sheets Cut to Size

Cutting Acrylic at home can be a difficult task, which could require some mechanical tools like - Handsaw, Scoring Knife, Jigsaw, Bandsaw, Laser and many more.
Instead of struggling into all such tools, one should go for the online sites which provide a variety of acrylic sheeting of different specifications.
Recently, I have ordered some of the acrylic cut to size, with three simple steps you can just order your acrylic sheet cut to size of any measurement. Once you have specified the measurement, your work is done, leave rest of the things on the providers and you will be amazed when the delivery comes.
You can see below image to refer -
burgundy_acp_-_new.jpg
 
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