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Evaluate my first WC parts list

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Bytor007

New Member
Joined
May 12, 2009
Location
Colorado
Please check out my first water cooling system parts list and make sure I didn't miss anything.

My current system: Antec 300 case, Asus P6t (standard, not deluxe version),
i7 920 (overclocked to 3.25 ghz), Xigmatek s1283 cooler, Radeon 4890.

I have read a great deal on water cooling lately and want to WC to cool that hot i7 920 processor and overclock to 3.8 ghz plus. I would prefer not to have to mod my case, and don't mind mounting the rad to the back. I've picked my components list based on my budget (under $300), and based on reccomendations from research on WC.

If you guys see anything I'm missing or would reccomend substitutions, I'd appreciate feedback. I plan to order in the next day or two. Right now I plan on only a CPU loop.

Here is the list, and thanks.



YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-12 - Medium Speed
$3.35 x 3 = $10.05

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Swiftech Apogee GTZ Extreme Performance CPU Waterblock

$61.95 x = $61.95

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Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump Without speed controller

$64.95 x = $64.95


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Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 Revision 2 - Black

$17.95 x = $17.95

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Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev 2

Selected options:
Res Port: NONE

$24.95 x = $24.95

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Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator
Selected options:
Barbs: 1/2" Swiftech Metal High Flow

$55.95 x = $55.95

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Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD

$0.49 x 12 = $5.88

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Swiftech Hydrx - Extreme Duty Coolant UV REACTIVE

$2.99 x = $2.99


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Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black


Selected options:
size: Medium Size (F)

$0.40 x = $4.00




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Shipping cost:
$11.49


Total:
$260.16
 
A very good list indeed. The only aspect I'd caution against is Hydrx. The one time I've had obvious growth in a loop was using Hydrx. I suggest distilled and a killcoil or two. This solution is elegant, non-toxic and works VERY well. If you can find it in your price range you might take a look at the Heatkiller LT for your CPU. If you decide to stay with the GTZ you won't have a problem, though. Otherwise you're good.
 
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A very good list indeed. The also aspect I'd caution against is Hydrx. The one time I've had obvious growth in a loop was using Hydrx. I suggest distilled and a killcoil or two. This solution is elegant, non-toxic and works VERY well. If you can find it in your price range you might take a look at the Heatkiller LT for your CPU. If you decide to stay with the GTZ you won't have a problem, though. Otherwise you're good.

I'll check out the killcoil. I looked at the Heatkiller, but it's out of stock where I've looked. I've seen the d-tek Fuzion v2, and have read it's comparable to the GTZ. Thanks.
 
Couple opinions to add, since you're asking...

First, no need for the rad box if you don't want it. You can simply use long bolts. It'll save you $18, FWIW. See pics of mine here for an example.

Secondly, since you're saving $18 and budgeting under $300, ditch the Swiftech rad and get a Thermochill 120.3, which is a steal at $99.99 from Jab Tech right now.
 
I'll check out the killcoil. I looked at the Heatkiller, but it's out of stock where I've looked. I've seen the d-tek Fuzion v2, and have read it's comparable to the GTZ. Thanks.

Sidewinder sent out a flyer not too long ago saying that they had them. :confused: I guess I few people got that email too :) If I had to choose between the v2 and the GTZ I'd go with the latter. The GTZ is a good performer out of the box and isn't gimmicky either.

If you're still interested, PPCS has the Cu in stock.
 
Thanks everyone for the feedback. Going with pretty much all of the suggestions. I'm ditching the Hydrix and the radbox (going with the long bolts, nice pics btw!). I'd love the thermochill rad, but it bumps my budget a little too high. Also going with some screw clamps instead of the herbies.
 
Secondly, since you're saving $18 and budgeting under $300, ditch the Swiftech rad and get a Thermochill 120.3, which is a steal at $99.99 from Jab Tech right now.

not worth the extra few degree's in cooling you get for the money IMO. unless you need to save space and get every last drop of cooling out of a certain sized rad there is no point in going for the best.


the build looks good but like others have said, no need for hydrx, just distilled water and pt nuke or a kill coil.
 
To be honest, I'd go with the 355 pump + top. The 655 is good, don't get me wrong. The problem with it is, the intake and output configuration takes up quite a bit of room. I'm worried that in thee 300 case, it might be a space hog.

Unless you've got a good place to put the 655, or are willing to put an aftermarket top on it like I had to, I think the 355 is easier to work with.
 
Thanks everyone for the feedback. Going with pretty much all of the suggestions. I'm ditching the Hydrix and the radbox (going with the long bolts, nice pics btw!). I'd love the thermochill rad, but it bumps my budget a little too high. Also going with some screw clamps instead of the herbies.
Glad to have saved you a couple bucks...and thanks!
not worth the extra few degree's in cooling you get for the money IMO. unless you need to save space and get every last drop of cooling out of a certain sized rad there is no point in going for the best.
Fair enough. TBH, I've just been lusting after that rad for a while now. Pretty much ever since I added a NB block to my already taxed Black Ice Pro II. :eek:
 
Ok...everything is ordered and on the way. Should be here tomorrow. Looking forward to the instal. Thanks again for the suggestions.
 
Ok, everything is installed and running great! I'm running at 3.8 ghz (with hyperthreading enabled) and with prime95 blend and OCCT linpack going simultaneously I'm loading at about 65 c (at 1.35 volts). This is a huge improvement over the xigmatek dark knight.

Pump mounting was a challenge in my case. I ended up mounting on top of the power supply.

Another issue I ran into was my A1 Dimm slot not working with the GTZ tightened down too much. At first I thought the slot was bad, but then I tried loosening the mounting bolts a few screws and A1 started working again. For anyone else with a P6t, you can try loosening the heatsink mounting screws if your A1 slot is not working.

Thanks to the board for helping with this project :beer:
 
Congrats! Not too hard, ya did your homework and have the knack for WC.

Check you system for leaks every few days for a month or so, never know....

Another build at OC Forums. More credit to the builder ,they did the hard work, we just verified stuff in this build.

Good job! Where are the pics?
 
Amazing. 2 years later people still come up with the EXACT parts list I myself used. The only differences are GTZ vs Dtek Fuzion (given considering the time span) and 300 vs P180B (how different really?). And steel barbs on Clearflex 1/2".

Good work on first build.
 
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