EVGA gtx 970 superclocked and CPU water block help

[jveneziano]

Hey guys,

I'm planning on upgrading my PC to water cooling my specs right now are

Thermaltake level 10gt
Asus maximus V formula
16Gb 2133mhz Gskill ram
Intel I7 2600K over clocked to 4.4Ghz
Corsair HX1050

I plan on upgrading my case to a cooler master cosmos 2, I just don't like the level 10 GT.
So when I get the new case I want to upgrade to water cooling but I can't find a block that will fit my graphics card
the EVGA GTX970 superclocked
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487070

And I also can't decide on the CPU block there are so many choices is there a tried and true block for this CPU?

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Check out EK's coolingconfigurator for the GPU.

As for the CPU WB, check out the XSPC Raystorm or Swiftech XL WBs.

 

[Mandrake4565]

Cooling Configurator as far as Cpu blocks go I really like my EK Supremecy here's a Cpu block comparison . Definitely spend some time here reading through the stickys to educate yourself on what you need to know for watercooling.

Edit: I guess I type too slow GTXJB

 

[jveneziano]

thank you man! that is pretty cool. It says that this will fit
EK-FC970 GTX - Nickel [3831109869413]
but it says compatibility is visual does this mean its not a full coverage block ? will i need to add extra heat sinks?
Also what is the advantage of running a Nickel block over copper ?

 

[jveneziano]

Cooling Configurator as far as Cpu blocks go I really like my EK Supremecy here's a Cpu block comparison . Definitely spend some time here reading through the stickys to educate yourself on what you need to know for watercooling.

Edit: I guess I type too slow GTXJB

Thank you that comparison was really good I was going to get the EK-Supreme LTX CSQ but it appears to not preform that well. I would go with just the supremacy block but I cant find it without the clear top, I hear they crack after awhile. Maybe I will look into the Heatkiller REV 3.0 block.

 

[EK Luc]

thank you man! that is pretty cool. It says that this will fit
EK-FC970 GTX - Nickel [3831109869413]
but it says compatibility is visual does this mean its not a full coverage block ? will i need to add extra heat sinks?
Also what is the advantage of running a Nickel block over copper ?

Thank you that comparison was really good I was going to get the EK-Supreme LTX CSQ but it appears to not preform that well. I would go with just the supremacy block but I cant find it without the clear top, I hear they crack after awhile. Maybe I will look into the Heatkiller REV 3.0 block.

As the search with the CoolingConfigurator indicated you, the standard EK-FC970 GTX will fit nicely on your card. This is a full cover block you don't need to add heatsinks. Nickel vs Copper is only for aesthetics.

As for the Supremacy CPU Block "cracking after a while" I would really like to see your source of information since I never heard of that type of recurring problem!!! I currently own 7 EK Blocks (LTX, Supremacy and EVO) and 6 of them have the plexi top and I never had any issues!

 

[jveneziano]

As the search with the CoolingConfigurator indicated you, the standard EK-FC970 GTX will fit nicely on your card. This is a full cover block you don't need to add heatsinks. Nickel vs Copper is only for aesthetics.

As for the Supremacy CPU Block "cracking after a while" I would really like to see your source of information since I never heard of that type of recurring problem!!! I currently own 7 EK Blocks (LTX, Supremacy and EVO) and 6 of them have the plexi top and I never had any issues!

Thank you I was not sure if mixing copper and nickle would be a problem or if it was just when you mix aluminum in the loop that you need to use a biocide. For the cracking this is just one of the threads that I found, that talked about the cracking issue over time.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1405213/cracks-in-waterblock
I don't know if this has been fixed or not, but that's why I shied away from picking blocks with plexi tops. I know a lot of people have zero problems so I am not sure what to do lol, I want a loop to last me at least 3-4 years with just the regular maintenance like changing the distilled water and cleaning the blocks.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Yup, I feel the same way. Personal preference and my cautious self says I could be "that guy" of getting a crack. I tend to hand tight my fittings really well and of course lose skin in the process. I advise using some gloves. I've come close to cracking my acrylic reservoir. I saw the stress lines to it but no cracks thankfully. Maybe the funny sounds it was making was a submission to stop. lol Nonetheless I use it and it works great but I won't add acrylic or plexi on any blocks. I worry about my hardware to much and don't want to be "that guy" that it happens to on a rare occasion. I like the solid acetal and metal look with a "bling" of LEDs to it if anything. That's just my personal preference.

EK did have a nickel plating issue in the past that used to flake and cause a mess. They fixed that but because of the horror images and stories I've decided from the beginning I'd steer away from EK products. I will say I am open to their GPU WBs because they are really nice. I think they stepped up their game in the QC department when it comes to their nickle plating since those dark days.

 

[EK Luc]

Thank you I was not sure if mixing copper and nickle would be a problem or if it was just when you mix aluminum in the loop that you need to use a biocide. For the cracking this is just one of the threads that I found, that talked about the cracking issue over time.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1405213/cracks-in-waterblock
I don't know if this has been fixed or not, but that's why I shied away from picking blocks with plexi tops. I know a lot of people have zero problems so I am not sure what to do lol, I want a loop to last me at least 3-4 years with just the regular maintenance like changing the distilled water and cleaning the blocks.

Ok this is new to me! Thanks for the link.

I can only say that I personnaly vouch for the plexi as much as the acetal even in long-term use but if you want to be safe the Supremacy in acetal would be your best choice or even the full nickel of full copper block

 

[Mandrake4565]

Thank you I was not sure if mixing copper and nickle would be a problem or if it was just when you mix aluminum in the loop that you need to use a biocide. For the cracking this is just one of the threads that I found, that talked about the cracking issue over time.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1405213/cracks-in-waterblock
I don't know if this has been fixed or not, but that's why I shied away from picking blocks with plexi tops. I know a lot of people have zero problems so I am not sure what to do lol, I want a loop to last me at least 3-4 years with just the regular maintenance like changing the distilled water and cleaning the blocks.

jveneziano, you need to use Biocide or Silver Coil regardless of mixed metals. You do not use Biocide for mixed metals you need to use some type of Anti Corrosive such as Ethylene Glycol aka automotive antifreeze. You can mix copper, nickel, brass, silver and gold without issue, it's only if you have aluminum in the loop where it would be required.

As far as the plexi tops, yes they can crack but it's usually only if you are removing and cleaning the loop a lot and over tighten it. I have been running a Ek Supreme HF with a plexi top for around 2 years now, I clean my loop 2x a year and I do not have any cracks in it.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Galvanic corrosion happens all the time but at a very slow process with silver, brass, nickel, copper etc. Aluminum is galvanic corrosion on steroids that's why we always recommend to steer away from those kind of metals. I am never worried as I have copper, brass mixed metals and possibly a little nickel in my loop. The only thing that showed some aging was my Koolance QDC's (Brass). I think even on some of the sides it looked like very small spots of rust. My Bitspower compression fittings on the other hand, at least 80% look good as NEW! I am not kidding. Been using them for almost 3 years now.

 

[jveneziano]

Yup, I feel the same way. Personal preference and my cautious self says I could be "that guy" of getting a crack. I tend to hand tight my fittings really well and of course lose skin in the process. I advise using some gloves. I've come close to cracking my acrylic reservoir. I saw the stress lines to it but no cracks thankfully. Maybe the funny sounds it was making was a submission to stop. lol Nonetheless I use it and it works great but I won't add acrylic or plexi on any blocks. I worry about my hardware to much and don't want to be "that guy" that it happens to on a rare occasion. I like the solid acetal and metal look with a "bling" of LEDs to it if anything. That's just my personal preference.

EK did have a nickel plating issue in the past that used to flake and cause a mess. They fixed that but because of the horror images and stories I've decided from the beginning I'd steer away from EK products. I will say I am open to their GPU WBs because they are really nice. I think they stepped up their game in the QC department when it comes to their nickle plating since those dark days.

I got your responce after I ordered my CPU and GPU blocks. I got
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2..._AcetalNickel.html?id=fvDiNcVu&mv_pc=94#blank
for the GPU along with the black plate, and
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Nickel_Original_CSQ.html?id=fvDiNcVu&mv_pc=92
for the CPU. Your response got me wondering about the nickel plating so I called frozen CPU and they said EK has resolved this issue and to not run a silver kill coil in the loop instead run this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html
they said the kill coil sometimes has a reaction to EK's nickel coating. have you seen this stuff before ?

 

[GTXJackBauer]

I got your responce after I ordered my CPU and GPU blocks. I got
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2..._AcetalNickel.html?id=fvDiNcVu&mv_pc=94#blank
for the GPU along with the black plate, and
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Nickel_Original_CSQ.html?id=fvDiNcVu&mv_pc=92
for the CPU. Your response got me wondering about the nickel plating so I called frozen CPU and they said EK has resolved this issue and to not run a silver kill coil in the loop instead run this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html
they said the kill coil sometimes has a reaction to EK's nickel coating. have you seen this stuff before ?

Deadwater is fine. I use that and a kill coil. Depending on how much fluid your loop takes will dictate how many drops is needed. The deadwater is basically a kill coil in liquid form. Does the same job. Yes, get that and you will still be fine.

 

[Kurama]

you may want to look at the ek fc 670 waterblock

i have that on my evga gtx 970 sc my cards model if inm not mistaken was 1972KR

if you search by comment DATE im on the second page of the newegg link that you posted on that gpu
WILLIAM W.
11/13/2014 10:24:32 AM
Tech Level: Somewhat High

its the same exact card i have in my pc now,

that card has the exact layout as the gtx 670 used to, and the older ek fc 670 waterblock is a perfect fit

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/...upgrade-pics?p=7762239&viewfull=1#post7762239