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EVGA Hydro Copper 2080 Ti Water Block Issue?

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Migz

New Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2020
Hi Everyone,

I built my first custom water loop system in early January of this year and it's been running really well for 6 months now. My water loop components are made up of Corsair Hydro X series parts: 2 Radiators (1x360mm and 1x240mm), CPU Water Block, Reservoir/Pump, and hardline tubing (PMMA material). All the fittings are Bitspower fittings (there are a few Corsair fittings but they are made by Bitspower), Bitspower RGB Flow meter, and I'm using Distilled Water. Was planning after a year of use to replace the Distilled Water with the Corsair XL5 Performance Coolant.

p8ThEfj.jpg

Just recently, I began to notice some discoloration inside the EVGA Hydro Copper 2080 Ti GPU water block. What used to be clear and colorless, now appears to be clear and light "yellowish".

CFBlfaN.jpg

Would anyone know if this is corrosion that going on? Or bio growth? Perhaps I should change out the DI and clean out the loop since it's been 6 months?

Thank you.
 
First thing first : your rig is amazing!:thup:

I would drain the loop and clean the WB. I'd vote for bio growth. Do you use any biocide or just pure DW?
 
Thanks Tír na nÓg! :thup: Yeah, it turned out pretty good for my first try with building a PC with a water loop.

What's "WB"? Water Block?? Any recommendations on what to use for the cleaning? I'm assuming I will need to take apart the GPU water block or will I be able to just clean it by running some chemical agent through the system a few cycles and then drain it out?

Here's a closer look at the GPU water block.
KX468MH.jpg

- - - Auto-Merged Double Post - - -

And to answer your question... no. I just used straight DW and didn't add a biocide. :-/
 
Ninja edited

I would drain with distilled water for 15/20 minutes. Best would be to plug the pump to a 5v/12v with the computer off. If you can't, be extra careful! Then remove and clean the Water Block with a tooth brush. Might be wise to check the CPU block as well. An ecosystem could live in it!

Good luck!

Edit. You can use a little bit of engine coolant as biocide and anti corrosion, if you don't have anything better handy.

Edit 2: to run the pump with the computer off, you need to remove all psu plugs from mobo, jump start it and use a molex to 3/4 pins adapter (for the pump).

Jump start PSU:

images.jpeg

Then plug the molex. Pump will start.
 
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Yeah, I'm looking into water loop cleaning solutions.. maybe the Primochill or Mayhems stuff will work but I'm not familiar with their products. I know I'll use the Corsair XL5 coolant that is a premixed solution that has both anti-corrosion inhibitors and anti-bacterial growth suppressors since I bought it when I built my system.
 
I used the Mayhems Blitz on my current build prior to assembly. Other than it taking a long time to do, it seemed to do a good job. I'm also using the Mayhems clear premix in this build as well and so far so good after about 4 months. Not sure about the Primochill but I trust their tubing over most so their cleaner might work good too.

You say you used distilled, did you also use an anti-microbial/corrosion additive as well? If not, it needs a cleaning for sure because that probably isn't the only spot. I wouldn't call it corrosion though, just algae funk which a good cleaner will get rid of.
 
You say you used distilled, did you also use an anti-microbial/corrosion additive as well? If not, it needs a cleaning for sure because that probably isn't the only spot. I wouldn't call it corrosion though, just algae funk which a good cleaner will get rid of.
Just been running the system on distilled water with no additives. This is my first water loop and I definitely "glossed over" the part about adding inhibitor/biocide to the water. :facepalm:

Is that what you used on your system? It sounds like you did a full Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and Part 2?

Anyhow, the build-up looks to be minimal so I best deal with it now. I don't know if taking apart the water loop is necessary at this point as there isn't any major debris in the loop, just the start of bio growth, right? I was looking at Mayhems Blitz Basic (Part 2) since it seems you can use it with the water loop intact. Just need to drain the loop first, then add Mayhems Part 2 system cleaner and run for 24 hrs, then drain, add DI water, run loop again for at least 30min, and repeat another two times (at minimum) before adding the final coolant (I have a 1L bottle of Corsair's XL5 Clear as my coolant).
 
To be thorough, I will go ahead and clean out both water blocks. Then I'm thinking to use the Mayhems Blitz Basic (Part 2) after putting the water blocks back in and let it run ~24hrs. Then drain, fill with Distilled Water, run loop for 30-1hr, drain and repeat two-three more times. After last drain, fill loop with clear coolant that has inhibitors/biocide already pre-mixed. I think that should do it and probably won't need to do this for another 6-12 months.
 
Just been running the system on distilled water with no additives. This is my first water loop and I definitely "glossed over" the part about adding inhibitor/biocide to the water. :facepalm:

Is that what you used on your system? It sounds like you did a full Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and Part 2?

Anyhow, the build-up looks to be minimal so I best deal with it now. I don't know if taking apart the water loop is necessary at this point as there isn't any major debris in the loop, just the start of bio growth, right? I was looking at Mayhems Blitz Basic (Part 2) since it seems you can use it with the water loop intact. Just need to drain the loop first, then add Mayhems Part 2 system cleaner and run for 24 hrs, then drain, add DI water, run loop again for at least 30min, and repeat another two times (at minimum) before adding the final coolant (I have a 1L bottle of Corsair's XL5 Clear as my coolant).

Yes, I used 1 and 2 but that was a mix of used and new radiators so I felt it best to start fresh. I would think part 2 will be enough to clean out the rest of tyour system but I think you are right to disassemble the blocks just in case then running part 2 through the whole thing.
 
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