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Fan configuration on RAD

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Yes, those are Yate Loon D12SL-12's with a resistor in series with the fan motor. Swap them in and see what happens. :)
 
If you dont have a way to measure water temp then just use core temp to see what your processors temp does. It will be accurate enough to determine what is the best thing for you anyway.

~jtjuska
 
I have been using PCProbe II, Speedfan, and NvMonitor to measure the temps, unfortunately Core temp does not work on Vista 64bit unless you disable the driver signing.
 
Acutally now that I am thinking about this, maybe as a first try I will use PC Probe II and turn the fans down to 60%, this would bring them down from 2100rpm to around 1200 and see how the temps react...
 
Do you have those fans on the motherboard headers? If you do, be sure the headers are rated for that much power. Those fans would cook the fan headers on my mobo.
 
Yes, I have 8 fan headers on my MB so each fan is connected to a separate header.
 
Travis Dawes said:

The golf ball dimpled fan looks fun but since 90% of the air a fan moves is from the outer 20% of the fan, the dimples they show on that fan would do nothing.

I compared panaflo stats to the golf fan and panaflo on paper gives the same loudness with 15 cfm more air flow...probably because the panaflo hydro bearing is so quiet.

Forget the golf fan.
 
Check this out Fan Review and let me know if that changes your mind. I have both L1A's and M1A's originals from Panasonic, not the NMB stuff and they are overall noisy from a mechanical motor noise point of view!
 
If you cannot accommodate two shrouds, and still want quiet operation, consider 3 pushing with shroud and 3 pulling with no shroud. Additionally you can adjust the depth of the shrouds. The rig I'm working on currently includes a Stealth GT 360 and 6 yate loons in the top of a PC-G70, if you buy sheet acrylic, you can push the shroud depth to the very minimum effective distance of 3/4", or simply leave the pulling shroud out. However I've calculated that even with 1.5" shrouds, the G70 can hack it. In my experience, push pull with lower cfm and noise can equal or best pull with med cfm and noise, but ONLY if you have a well designed shroud array to help that air along. As I see it the choices are 6 with push pull and both shrouds, or 3 pulling, probably with a shroud as well, anything else will be a reduction in performance.
 
On my UFO I have a PA120.3 w/shroud in a pull configuration air intering from outside the case. I normally use (3) Yate D12SM-12 with a Sunbeam Rheobus controller but currently I am trying (3) ebmPabst 4412 FGML fans.

I suggest trying different configurations and fans and see what works best for your situation. I am interested in trying the Sharkoon fans also.
 
Again, push-pull only helps when the fans are struggling against restriction, and the PA series is not very restrictive. But if you really want to run six fans and don't have room for two shrouds, try pull-pull with one shroud and a one or two inch spacer between the fans.
 
orion456 said:
The golf ball dimpled fan looks fun but since 90% of the air a fan moves is from the outer 20% of the fan, the dimples they show on that fan would do nothing.
The dimples go all the way out to the edge of the blades. I think the idea is to reduce turbulence rather than to move more air. This may help make the fan more quiet, though it's still not enough to beat the quietest smooth-blade fans in cfm/db.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/24649_01.jpg
 
The Sharkoon (dimpled) fans rate very high on the performance/noise test done by Vapor at XS. It was a toss-up between those and the ebmPabst that I am currently trying. ThermoChill rad have a small built-in shroud so Marci says an extra shroud is not needed. I chose to use 1 shroud on the fan pull side and have tried using three additional fans on the push side without a shroud.

Since a Thermochill rad only needs about 47cfm from a fan to do a great job I chose to use a 70cfm with a Sunbeam Rheobus controller and have the option of under-volting them when silence is an issue. But when I need performance I just crank them up. :beer:
 
So I reduced the speed using PC Probe II to 80% and the rpm's went from 2200-2300 to 1900-2000, by doing this the preceived noise dropped quite a bit and the CPU temp only increased 2c so this looks good to me...

Thanks to everyone for their input...
 
I'm looking to build shrouds for my build
waterCooling%20045.jpg

Have added a 2nd blowhole forward of the one in the above pic. Currenly running with 2x empty fan cores instead of 1.

Am thinking of making a 2x shroud between case & rad & a 3x shroud on top. Am runnning currently with 3x YateLoon D12SH-12 . I would like to keep things flexible which is why i'm adding the lower shroud to add a 2x pull option if i want.

I have the luxury of not being restricted by shroud depth and would welcome advice on optimum gap between fan & rad. I'm using a Black Ice GT Stealth III rad, fan control is automatic using Mcubed T-balance BigNG.

I noted
ackrungh
you can push the shroud depth to the very minimum effective distance of 3/4", or simply leave the pulling shroud out. However I've calculated that even with 1.5" shrouds
where are you calculating effective distancw ??
is this the gap between the fan & rad or the height of the shroud which will be 25mm greater distance assuming a normal fan depth.

thanks
 
I use 3 yates loons and 3 nexus they are the same fans except nexus are hand picked and run at 1000rpm where yates loons are 1350 rpm. The nexus is the best fan you can get from a noise stand point. My radiator is a BI GTS 360 which is a thinner with more fins per an inch and I use a fan controller with both sets of fans I get 2c drop in cpu temp fans at full speed and if I run them at lowest rpm I get the same temp as if I was using only the 3 fans so if you have 6 fans it gives you a few more options and you really can't argue with a 2c drop in temps
 
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