Finally my Rig photos!!!

[jdmcnudgent]

are you rolling 3/8 or 1/2 inch barbs??? i have half inch and my temps are way killer.

 

[ElroyCarbon]

WOW nice temps! I'm running the 3/8 barbs.

 

[ElroyCarbon]

res

another res shot! A big Phat chunk O Nylon. It has a .125" thick plexi glass cover that fits just inside that machined groove. Notice the Radius cut for the bead of Silicon to embed itself for added security when sealed.

 

[SaERoR]

Your reserivor looks fine. Next time use weldom #3 to glue the pieces together. You have to wait maybe 30-60 seconds before attaching the top piece and once its on, its on! Its an aquarium sealer so no water can get out, unless you really screwed it up.
Make sure you use a really good applicator.
You should place the fill valve attachment towards the bottom of the res. If you place it towards the top air can easily go into the res. By having it on bottom it makes it harder for air to get in. If air does get in tip the res over and fill it back up so no air is in there. Then put it in your case. The inlet and outlet attachments should also be placed towards the bottom of the res.
Whatever you do be careful with the weldon glue.

 

[Big Nuttz]

Thats a bad unit you got there brother.

 

[ElroyCarbon]

yeah thats a mistake I found out the hard way. I love this res with exception to the location of the fill valve. I had intended on it dropping as the water level dropped, which should have worked! As time goes on I S**t you not this circuit ALWAYS seems to fill up with tiny amounts of air causing the fill valve level to actually rise, no kidding.................*** backwards. So I then put a cork inside the full fill valve and then the backpressure generated by the pump then caused a very tiny leak around the fill valve fitting as seen in the photos as a result of the build up of pressure. Finally my answer was to simply not fill the valve up and allow the air to fill the top of the res. The circuit remains air tight because the in and out barbs are located at the bottom below the top of the res and air tight. Even though my board has been wasted I continued to run the cooling set-up off and on sometimes for days just as a precaution. It is now installed and running like a champ. I'm thinking of getting a P4 2.53 and trying it on this mobo. I will use the mobo voltage mod this time instead of the vid pin. Now if I caould just get my temps down like jnudgents I'd be in great shape! CYA!

 

[drewthomas14]

i read its not good to take them past 1.75v.

 

[ElroyCarbon]

Well I did not have an issue with the CPU, bit yes I have also heard that. I accidently busted a pin off the CPU and it still runs like a champ! It is now a socket 477! I have now set the voltage to 1.6 and have had NO issues as of yet.

 

[Kunaak]

thats the most las vegas PC I seen in awhile, I picture a dude in a purple crushed velvet suit and featherd hair kickin it with that cool PC.
cause thats some pimpin gear you got.
hahaa.

 

[Buzzard]

I'm looking into building the same set up ( only without the fancy lighting...I think? till I seen this Rig ) AWSOM. Good job.
Could you post or send me the listings of where you purchased everything?
I have a P4 1.6a CPU as well, but noticed there are 2 different chips when I purchased mine. One has a cache of 256 and the other has a cache of 512.

 

[ElroyCarbon]

Yeah there were two back when I did mine as well. I did not know a darn thing back then (still don't) so I bought the damn Willamette (256). I was able to OC it to 2.1 GHZ and I was not content. I then bought the 1.6a and was able to get to 2.6 with the vid pin mod. I wasted my mobo and to this day have no idea how. I had identical setups so I was able to troubleshoot the dead board thoroughly, as a result I know it was the mobo. It is running again and this time as you see in my sig I'm playing it cool. This is fast as hell, but I have to get to 3 GHZ! I just ordered a 2.4 and they called and said they were out of stock. It is a tight package, but my temps I think suffer because of this. 37C idle and 42C under load. BUMMER! Anyway here are the components at the time:

LianLi PC65
Abit TH72 RAID
P4 1.6a
DangerDen Maze2 and Super cube radiator (heat exchanger)
Tygon tubing with 3/8" fittings form Home Depot
all clamps from http://www.smallparts.com/
Gainward G Force 4 TI4400
SB Live Audigy Platinum/ live drive
Pioneer slot DVD
Plextor 40/12/40
WD JB1200SE (8MB cache)
E Heim 1048 pump
Baybus came from http://www.highspeedpc.com
neon came from http://www.pcmods.com
the res is custom
Intel pro 100 management and thats all folks!

 

[drunkmonkey]

Awsome job man!
[off topic]If I didn't have honors english I was going to build a $50 watercooling setup(all i need 2 buy is a pump, i found a heavy duty 600gph pump fro $50), lol. My grandad owns a car junkyard so I can get a radiator 4 free. [/off topic]
Did you need that resivoir? Wouldn't inline give u better temps? Thats an awsome w/b.

 

[Emericana]

i dont think i have seen anyone cram as much stuff in a lian li as you have. GREAT WORK!

 

[ElroyCarbon]

ya know this was my first H2O cooled machine so I really do not know if its better to have a closed loop rather than the res, but I would think the res would be better. In this case I really don't think it matters because its the same temp in the inside as everything else is because of the fact its internal. I suppose it gives the water a few more moments to lose the heat. I dunno maybe someone can comment on this. Yeah its packed it's a bi**h to work on because of this fact too, but all I have to do is turn on the neons and BAM I still grin ear to ear.

 

[Penguin4x4]

are you rolling 3/8 or 1/2 inch barbs??? i have half inch and my temps are way killer.

How in the.........? 24C??!?!?!?!?

 

[JFettig]

i say you make it out of anodized aluminum or lexian, and skip the fill/bleed thing, just make it fill so its nearly full,

 

[ElroyCarbon]

Yeah I realize the fill deal was kind of a weak idea, it does work for filling and looks cool from the side I guess, whatever it takes to qualify it!