First Time Looper - setup q's

[netjack]

Hi Guys,

First time to water cooling and been searching quite a bit and this is what I've come down to and looking for some feedback.

Current setup:
Case - Lian Li pc-011 dynamic
CPU - 9700K
GPU - EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Hybrid Ultra Gaming

Rig pic:
https://ibb.co/kHtKchP

Both the CPU and GPU are currently overclocked pretty aggressively (5GHZ for CPU and 2.1MHZ GPU).

Water cooling Setup:
- CPU Block - EK-Velocity RGB - Nickel + Plexi
- GPU Block - EK-Vector FTW3 RTX 2080 Ti RGB - Plexi + Nickel
- Pump/Reservoir - EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM
- Radiator - HWLabs 360 GTS
- Fittings - EK-ACF x 10 (enough?)
- Tubing - LRT Primochill
- Fans - ML120 Pros
- The EK configurator throws in an EK-ATX Bridging Plug. What purpose does that really serve?


Questions:
- Will I benefit from having 2 radiators vs 1 for both the CPU & GPU?
- Am I over doing it with 360 radiators vs just going 240?
- I'm going to skip the backplate as I hear it's mostly for aesthetics. Thoughts?
- What's the best tool to cut the plastic tubing?

 

[EarthDog]

The bridging plug is there so you can run your loop and check for leaks without powering on the PC.

1. No, but you want but you want a bit more radiator than that for best results. Your GPU is 225W stock and the CPU is 65W stock (but skyrockets when overclocked. I would either go 2x 2x120mm rads or a single 4x120mm rad.
2. I see here you mention radiatorS (plural) are you running two? Please clarify
3. I'd run a backplate if only to protect the back. Many of these have thermal pads and do help with heat removal.
4. A knife? box cutter? Something sharp? It just needs to be cut.

Maybe give the sticky threads a read!

https://www.overclockers.com/forums...Water-Cooling-Your-PC-***-READ-THIS-FIRST-***

 

[netjack]

The bridging plug is there so you can run your loop and check for leaks without powering on the PC.

1. No, but you want but you want a bit more radiator than that for best results. Your GPU is 225W stock and the CPU is 65W stock (but skyrockets when overclocked. I would either go 2x 2x120mm rads or a single 4x120mm rad.
2. I see here you mention radiatorS (plural) are you running two? Please clarify
3. I'd run a backplate if only to protect the back. Many of these have thermal pads and do help with heat removal.
4. A knife? box cutter? Something sharp? It just needs to be cut.

Maybe give the sticky threads a read!

https://www.overclockers.com/forums...Water-Cooling-Your-PC-***-READ-THIS-FIRST-***

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I had already checked out that thread.

 

[bignazpwns]

Personally i would go for the Acetal top for the blocks. I never had a Plexi top not get micro cracks. Regardless of brand they have all got micro cracks. Total of 4 EK blocks all of them got micro cracks in less then 5 months of installing them. But i also had XSPC, Thermaltake all crack. But i never had any issues with the Acetal tops. Why i switched over to Corsair the transparent nylon they use wont crack. That said not a single one of the blocks leaked. I ran the EK for over a year before building a new loop after i seen the micro cracks. So its not the end of the world. But just dont want you to freak out when you see it. But any cracking in a loop is a bad thing. But i have yet to see one of the typical thermal caused micro cracks. Any cracks i seen leak were from user error.

1. Go 2 240's or a 480.
2. CPU + GPU i would typically do a min of 2 240's
3. These cards run hot. Ever touch the back plate? Go with a back plate. Might wanna aim a fan at it. They get extremely hot.
3. Anything that cuts. You want a nice clean cut that's straight. you want it as flat as you can get it to the compression fitting.


Coolent.

I know people love Mayhems and Corsair picked that for there line. But i always had good luck with EK's cryofuel. Im running the sold Cloud White premix and have had no problems. And the white looks great with RGB.

 

[Zerileous]

The 011 dynamic is nice to work in. For your setup I would use two 360 rads, you can fit a thick one in the top and a slim on the side intake, then still have room for a vertical GPU. This might be necessary as iirc the FTW is a tall card and there is a tight clearance for GPU height in this case.
Check here for GPU clearance http://www.lian-li.com/air-gpu-guidance-list/. This video has great discussion on radiator clearance, especially for the side rad

.

For fittings you'll need to plan where you want each component and anticipate any tight bends. You'll probably find yourself wanting a few 90 and 45 degree fittings, even with flexible tubing. Also get a couple more of each than you anticipate needing. I know fittings are expensive, but having $50 in extra fittings is worth it for the headaches you'll save when everything doesn't line up exactly the way you planned. Also you can get G1/4 90 and 45 degree adapters without the fitting, then use them for future builds, if you want to be more flexible.

I also find it beneficial to have a drain, even with flexible tubing. Sure you can just remove the CPU block or res, but I think it's easier to drain without having to un mount anything.