Interior color

[edwardaune]

edwardaune, no problem dude. I had to learn by trial and error...never ever again will I buy a jet black truck.

thats funny

3) wetsand the case, clearcoat it, wetsand the clearcoat, paint the mural, wetsand, then a final clearcoat over everything, wetsand it all and buff.

ok threadjacker , why would you want to put a clearcoat down before you paint the mural, to add depth maybe?

and just to clarify diggrr, prettyt much up to this point Ive only been putting on one coat fo clear, but a thick coat. Are you saying that I should put on a few coats? And if so, do I need to be sanding in between those quotes. Thank you oh great on for your abundance of paint knowledge, are you glad you replied to this thread

 

[Brundle Fly]

ok threadjacker , why would you want to put a clearcoat down before you paint the mural, to add depth maybe?

BUSTED! Heh heh heh. I'm thinking that if I clearcoat the base, I won't have to worry about sanding through the base paint when I sand the mural. I know I won't be able to just sand the mural, I know I'll sand beyond it's boundaries. It would really suck to get the mural down beauty, then sand through the basecoat while sanding the mural.

Hey, and now that you mention it, giving the paint behind the mural depth would look pretty slick. Possibly multiple coats of clear, then the mural. How about masking an area slightly bigger than the mural, laying down a pearl coat, then more clear, then the mural on top of that?

Thanks edwardaune, very cool idea, I didn't even think about the clearcoat adding depth. I should get shares in Dupli-colour by the time this case is done.

 

[edwardaune]

Thanks edwardaune, very cool idea, I didn't even think about the clearcoat adding depth. I should get shares in Dupli-colour by the time this case is done.

You have no idea how idea how much Krylon owes me or maybe its owns me.

Anybody on whether I should sand between clearcoats or just spray multiple coats and then sand.

BTW brundle, I have a can of pearlesent that I used to spray the flames, one word, sick. Im glad I went that route. It has very nice results if you just lightly spray about two coats on, kinda ghosts it. I would post some pics, but it seems that someone cant find the memory stick to go in the camera.

 

[Brundle Fly]

You have no idea how idea how much Krylon owes me or maybe its owns me.

Anybody on whether I should sand between clearcoats or just spray multiple coats and then sand.

BTW brundle, I have a can of pearlesent that I used to spray the flames, one word, sick. Im glad I went that route. It has very nice results if you just lightly spray about two coats on, kinda ghosts it. I would post some pics, but it seems that someone cant find the memory stick to go in the camera.

I'm not going to sand between clearcoats, with enamel I'd have to wait 5 days between the coats, and I'm just not that patient. As it stands, it's going to take a while to get all the layers on. If I had known better at the start, I might have looked for a laquer paint that did the same thing. Hindsight is 20/20 as they say. The paint guide at PC-workshop seems to be off limits now, I can't get in, I can't access pc-workshop at all. I know the guy that wrote the guide said something about sanding the clearcoats, but I forget what it was, doh!

I think we'll try that ghosting effect, nah, we're GOING to try that ghosting effect, your case looks sweet, and I know from taking my own pics, that pics never do them justice. Hopefully I'll get the clearcoats going this weekend, I'll let you know how the sanding turns out next weekend.

 

[syberspy9]

any way while u guys talk about Brundle fly's job all i have to say is...

WHEN DO I GET SOME PICS!

(im on 56k but still i dont care this case sounds so good i can wait for the pics o load)

 

[edwardaune]

soon...........

 

[Brundle Fly]

soon...........

I just checked out the link you posted in RIPSTER's thread, that dude says to sand between clearcoats. That got my memory in gear(it's getting rusty, in direct proportion to my birthdays, for some reason, I forget why), the guide at pcworkshop said the same. The trick was to sand between coats and not sand through to the colour level. The clearcoat will come off without colour, obviously, but if you do see colour start to show your water, stop immediately, and apply the next coat of clear before you sand through the colour coat to the primer.

Once you can get the orange peel off without breaking through to the colour, it's all over but the "buffing". I think that sucks, but if it takes longer to do it right, so be it.

 

[edwardaune]

Well, too bad I didnt get your response an hour ago. But, after applying the second (without sanding) the results came out good. The slight orange peel from the first coat lessened except for where I painted the flames. That pearlesent paint leaves a pretty rough surface and every place Ive read said not to sand it. I think applying several coats of clear then sanding with 600 (just to get rid of the orange peel thats left) then sanding with 1500 might be the roaf that Im taking. Brundle, I was reading a thread from Pimprig and it stated to shoot four coats sand then shoot four more. Im not going to go to that extreme but it coinsides with what I plan to do. I would imagine theres more than one way so skin this cat. Like Ive said before, Ive redone the bottom several times and sanding the clear to get the orange peel down will leave a milky haze and when I went to far obviously it started showing some pink. Dunno, I guess we'll have to find out the hard way. With the coats that Im spraying, Im probably going to give it a good week to harden then Ill sand. I did find out the hard way what happens when you sand too soon. Sux.

Man I nned to get done with this soon so I can start paying more attention to my puter. My stability has gone down some. I dont suppose it because theres an inch of dust in there. Ok, not an inch but you get the idea.

You crazy Canadians, it spelled COLOR not colour

 

[Diggrr]

Hey guys! Sorry I had to work late tonight..

For airbrushing, scuff the base color with 600 grit wet sanding first, then airbrush the design. When that's thouroughly dry, clearcoat with 2-3 layers then you can wetsand. To promote adhesion between layers you can scuff the previous clearcoat with some scotchbrite very lightly.
Clearcoat will make the sanded surfaces look like they'd never been touched.

For a single color paintjob, scuff sand the base color coat, clearcoat it and let dry. Then scuff sand again before clear coating again. You can do the final wet sanding and polishing when the clearcoat is on sufficiently thick enough and very well dried.
Metalic and Pearlescent paints shouldn't be sanded before clearcoating, it removes the colorant from the tiny flakes and makes it stand out in spots.
If I'm using a metalic paint, I'll lay 3 coats, sanding the first two lightly but not touching the third.

Scuff sanding is just a light wet sanding using little pressure. It's just to knock off the peaks some and promote adhesion. Do not worry about getting the paint super smooth at this point, that's what clearcoat is for.

In all cases, use some tack cloth after sanding and drying off so that you're not making any dust and particulates a part of your finish.

Colour...heh. Guess it doesn't matter which way it's spelled really. Even in America there's different ways of spelling some words. Grey or Gray ...depends on who you ask.

 

[Brundle Fly]

Well, too bad I didnt get your response an hour ago. But, after applying the second (without sanding) the results came out good. The slight orange peel from the first coat lessened except for where I painted the flames. That pearlesent paint leaves a pretty rough surface and every place Ive read said not to sand it. I think applying several coats of clear then sanding with 600 (just to get rid of the orange peel thats left) then sanding with 1500 might be the roaf that Im taking. Brundle, I was reading a thread from Pimprig and it stated to shoot four coats sand then shoot four more. Im not going to go to that extreme but it coinsides with what I plan to do. I would imagine theres more than one way so skin this cat. Like Ive said before, Ive redone the bottom several times and sanding the clear to get the orange peel down will leave a milky haze and when I went to far obviously it started showing some pink. Dunno, I guess we'll have to find out the hard way. With the coats that Im spraying, Im probably going to give it a good week to harden then Ill sand. I did find out the hard way what happens when you sand too soon. Sux.

Man I nned to get done with this soon so I can start paying more attention to my puter. My stability has gone down some. I dont suppose it because theres an inch of dust in there. Ok, not an inch but you get the idea.

You crazy Canadians, it spelled COLOR not colour

Cool, I'll throw 2 or 3 coats of clear on this weekend, and see how yours turns out before I start sanding next weekend. I may go with even more coats of clear, I want this "depth" effect to look really cool.

One thing that was mentioned in one of the guides is that clearcoats are much thinner/runnier than colour coats, so you have to be careful not to lay it on too thick, it's prone to getting runs.

Yeah, colour/color, center/centre, burns me everytime when I go to American sites, or use American programs with a spell checker.

Hey guys! Sorry I had to work late tonight..

For airbrushing, scuff the base color with 600 grit wet sanding first, then airbrush the design. When that's thouroughly dry, clearcoat with 2-3 layers then you can wetsand. To promote adhesion between layers you can scuff the previous clearcoat with some scotchbrite very lightly.
Clearcoat will make the sanded surfaces look like they'd never been touched.

For a single color paintjob, scuff sand the base color coat, clearcoat it and let dry. Then scuff sand again before clear coating again. You can do the final wet sanding and polishing when the clearcoat is on sufficiently thick enough and very well dried.
Metalic and Pearlescent paints shouldn't be sanded before clearcoating, it removes the colorant from the tiny flakes and makes it stand out in spots.
If I'm using a metalic paint, I'll lay 3 coats, sanding the first two lightly but not touching the third.

Scuff sanding is just a light wet sanding using little pressure. It's just to knock off the peaks some and promote adhesion. Do not worry about getting the paint super smooth at this point, that's what clearcoat is for.

In all cases, use some tack cloth after sanding and drying off so that you're not making any dust and particulates a part of your finish.

Colour...heh. Guess it doesn't matter which way it's spelled really. Even in America there's different ways of spelling some words. Grey or Gray ...depends on who you ask.

I may have to do a little more work on the base coat if you're not supposed to sand metallic paints, I have some really fugly dust particles in there. Ah well, a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. I always use a tack cloth before painting, but my basement is super dusty, un-painted concrete. I'm looking forward to warmer weather.

 

[edwardaune]

Still have a lot of work to do but I thought I would drop some pics..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00833.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00834.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00830.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00831.jpg still needs clear

started putting some things back together...there isnt a cable that isnt getting sleeved

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00829.jpg

Like I said, I still have a lot of work to do and Ive been asking A LOT of questions about sanding the clear. You really should use 600 at all to sand the clear down. At least use 1500 to start off with and work your way up to 2500, then you can use a really good polishing compound to get out the fine scratches that the 2500 left. I recommend using this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00836.jpg

more to come...

 

[sharkmont]

That looks like an excellent paint job. Very very nice! Keep up the fine work.

 

[syberspy9]

May have much more work to do but it looks SO GOOD!

very nice job the heart looks great and the front pic is so clean nice black with the fan grill out and the sleeve job.

very nie i would say much mroe but i have to run out the door...

 

[thegreek]

^^ good job on that

 

[Brundle Fly]

Still have a lot of work to do but I thought I would drop some pics..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00833.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00834.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00830.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00831.jpg still needs clear

started putting some things back together...there isnt a cable that isnt getting sleeved

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00829.jpg

Like I said, I still have a lot of work to do and Ive been asking A LOT of questions about sanding the clear. You really should use 600 at all to sand the clear down. At least use 1500 to start off with and work your way up to 2500, then you can use a really good polishing compound to get out the fine scratches that the 2500 left. I recommend using this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00836.jpg

more to come...

Brundle adds 3M Perfect-It III to his shopping list.

 

[edwardaune]

That rubbing compound is "Extra cut" in case you couldn't read the pic and there was a error in my grammar. You shouldn't use 600 grit on clear coat. The pros that Ive been talking to said that you would have to have some pretty serious orange peel even for a can, to use such a harsh grit. That would explain some of the reason why when I get to that point it always seems to fail. I just dont want to see you guys make the same mistake. Start off with at least 1500, it may take longer, but hell you've put that mush work into it. Anyways....

 

[edwardaune]

I know its a crappy pic and I will show more when the lighting is better, but I think I FINALLY mastered the "buffing" portion of it. After shooting the clear I let it stand for at least 4 days then I started sanding with 1500 to remove the orange peel. After sanding with 1500 it loks hazey but if you go outside and look at an angle you can tell the orange peel is gone and you get a "mirror" like reflection off of the trees and such. Then I sanded with 2000 just to smooth out the sanding of the 1500. BTW, both of the sandings were done VERY lightly with soapy water. After sanding I then applied the 3M rubbing compound (liquid actually) and started buffing and there there you go.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00848.jpg

Its kinda hard to see mainly because Im inside and the color is pink but there is a mirror reflection. Yea!! After I assemble the case I am going to apply 3M's polishing compound that they claim will have a "new car" appearance. Im glad I finally found a good way to get this done. Only 4 more pieces to go.

EDIT: This one might be better
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00849.jpg

 

[Brundle Fly]

I know its a crappy pic and I will show more when the lighting is better, but I think I FINALLY mastered the "buffing" portion of it. After shooting the clear I let it stand for at least 4 days then I started sanding with 1500 to remove the orange peel. After sanding with 1500 it loks hazey but if you go outside and look at an angle you can tell the orange peel is gone and you get a "mirror" like reflection off of the trees and such. Then I sanded with 2000 just to smooth out the sanding of the 1500. BTW, both of the sandings were done VERY lightly with soapy water. After sanding I then applied the 3M rubbing compound (liquid actually) and started buffing and there there you go.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00848.jpg

Its kinda hard to see mainly because Im inside and the color is pink but there is a mirror reflection. Yea!! After I assemble the case I am going to apply 3M's polishing compound that they claim will have a "new car" appearance. Im glad I finally found a good way to get this done. Only 4 more pieces to go.

EDIT: This one might be better
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/EdwardAune/DSC00849.jpg

Cool dude, I'll be snagging some this weekend, and I know all about how looking at your "piece" at an angle takes away the haze, it's a mirror at the "right angle"(pun intended)

Yes, the second pic is better.

Any paint guide you read will tell you that light colours don't show off the mirror effect like dark colours, it's something that has to be seen in person. What I'm looking forward to is a pic of your girlfriend's/wife's mod, with something in the background to give it some contrast, we really can't get the full effect with the shots you have now, if you know what I mean?

Like maybe set it up infront of a red background, or black for that matter, so we can see the colour differences. Tweak the contrast or whatever with the image program you're using right now, make it look like it does to you. Natural light is the best for this, it really shows off what you've done, but once again, you have to have the right angle.

Anyhow, fantastic job, I'm impressed, very well done.

 

[syberspy9]

nice i think thats a great clean and clear job.
i wish i had the effort to do that one day...one day...

 

[Brundle Fly]

As an aside, I watched American Chopper tonight, awesome bike built in memory of Dave Mann. Anyhow, the paint job, so very sweet, flames engraved into the metal, then air-brushed, more engraving/etching on top, layer upon layer, so very sweet.

In the end, buddy is buffing out the oil-tank, and what's on the bench in front of him? 3M Perfect-It, go figure.

I figure that if the painters that can make Paulie Sr. happy use that stuff, that's what I'll go with, good call there edwardaune.