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Koolance PMP-450S Strong High-flow D5 Pump

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H3LLSMAN

New Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2015
I have a question about this pump, I am running a external water cooling setup and in need of a new pump this is the same style as my last pump just stronger.

Under the specs it says
Maximum Flow Rate: 17.4L/min (4.6 gal/min) @ 12V, 22.3L/min (5.9 gal/min) @ 24V
Maximum Head Pressure: 5.1m (16.8ft) @ 12V, 5.8m (19ft) @ 24V
Motor: Brushless DC, electronically commutated, spherical motor
Expected Lifetime: 50,000 hrs. MTBF (5.7 years)
Power: 8-24VDC, 3-55W, 0.13-2.1A
Startup Voltage: 9 to 13.2 VDC
Maximum System Pressure: 3.5 kgf/cm2 (50 PSI)
Maximum Temperature: 60°C (140°F)
Electrical Connector: 4-pin Molex power supply connection + 3-pin (single lead) tach
Hose Connections: 13mm (1/2") ID hose barbs
Wetted Materials: PPO, Carbon/Allumina Ceramic, EPDM or Viton, 316 SS
Noise: Less than 40dBA
Weight: 862g (1.9lbs)

I admit I do not know much about voltages but how do I know if connecting a molex is providing 24v and not just 12v to the pump. I have a molex AC adapter it is this model

Model: CS-1205000
Input: 100-240VAC 50/60Hz 1.5A
Output: Standard 4 Pin Power Connector
12 V DC at up to 5A draw
 
It's a Lang D-5. And they run it at 24v to get those numbers. They just payed someone who markets/makes them to put a label on it that says Koolance. Nothing special. Your PSU puts out 12 VDC max. You need a 24 VDC separate power supply for 24 VDC.
 
could you not make a custom molex plug using the +12v and -12v to get 24v?
Sure, and watch your PSU crossload and blow itself to the moon. They're not meant to do that.
Meanwell makes a PSU for up to 48v.
 
Reason for wanting 24volts is because its a huge loop The rad is a Watercool MO-RA3 420 PRO 9 x 140mm and I have a really long amount of tubing over a gallon and a 1/2 of distilled water yea its way overkill and honestly does not perform better than something less. Once I add GPU's and a motherboard block when and if it comes out for the board there will be alot of resistance.

I did see that make your own 24v plug but out of my league and I feel like it will not be reliable, the koolance switch seems that it will do the job for this. I guess I will just stick it to the side of my radiator.
ctr-spd1224_p1-700x700.jpg
 
If you want a stronger pump, why don't you go with an
Iwaki pond pump
or an
Ehiem 1048 pump

They both run on 120v AC and there's a conversion adapter somewhere on the net to switch the pump on with you turn the pc on.


I used to use the Eheim 1048 years ago. Strong pump to say the least. The Iwaki is much stronger tho.
 
I have heard that they are weaker in the PC setting due to PSI or something, and when comparing to the Ehiem 1048 the D5 at 24 volts will do 5.8m (19ft) @ 24V head and 354 gph vs Ehiem at 195 gph and 4`11" head

Not mention the bigger pump need adapters and then the other issue is aesthetically they can begin to look like ****.
 
You get the D5 and the meanwell psu in order to run it. The meanwell psu is not purdy, plus it's fairly large (unsure where you will mount it). Not to mention the wiring involved. I know, I've used one with a peltier. Dam rats nest of wires.

In any event good luck with your project.
 
Not getting the meanwell PSU just using the koolance controler to get the 24v and then the rats nest of cables for the 18 fans is held in line on the side that faces the wall with these wire runs bought 100 of them for under 5 on Amazon and they are inline with each other all the way down to the fan hub, will post some pictures when its all done and setup. 10 output fan hub is used with splicers on each 10 connections. Its very clean looking

51JiN%2BH8JyL._SL1447_.jpg
 
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Have you considered the Swiftec MCP 50x pump? Much better head pressure and PWM adjustable, plenty enough for your loop.. It'll cost more but in the long run, your not building a cheap PC.

Gonna be a nice rig, post pics.

It's not PSI. It's called head pressure, it's what forces the water through the tough parts. More head, more flow with many blocks. The 50x KILLS the D5 , even the silly 24VDC Koolance one.
 
http://www.swiftech.com/MCP50X.aspx#tab3 this pump is better? it showing 22 PSI MAX vs 50 PSI max from the koolance rebrand pump and less head pressure 15.8ft vs 19.7ft. Keep in mind another reason I am wanting to stick with the D5 is in the past I bought the bitpower black housing for it and the pump top so buy switching pumps I would have to discard those two items that are not cheap. Remember that I can manually control the pump with the spd1224m I think that setup is the best since I would have to run a fan extension out side my case to have the pump controlled any other way which I do not want to do. So I am not stuck with this thing at 24v 24/7

What I am hoping is the tubing does not pop out of the compression fittings don't know how much would be needed but I know with twisting it can eventually pop out. When I get this I am going to run the loop not connected near an computer stuff for 24 hours at 24v just to see if anything happens if not them I should be good to go.
 
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12V to 19V or so converters are often sold as auto laptop chargers. A cheap one should do the trick.
 
PSI means burst pressure from the housing. Look at head pressure, that's what matters. The PSI is low in our loops. LOL 50 PSI would make your radiator tubes look like pumpkins.

Since you bought more parts for the pump then stick with the D5. I'm just showing you that the D5 can be beat since you are worried about enough flow rate in a restrictive loop.
 
The Koolance pump + the controller should do you fine. This pump is basically a "suped-up" D5 by koolance. If it was me, I would have went with 2 pumps in serial.

And yes, show us your project once done. Just remember all the basic necessities on the basics (Type of fluid, biocide, tubing, priming, bleeding, etc) and maintenance of water cooling.

:welcome: to OCFs btw.
 
I have changed it once more they have this pump which is 12v PMP-500 has a Maximum Head Pressure: 7.5m (24.6ft) at 12v volts which is more than the D5 @24. This will save me money aswell since i will not have to buy a controller. And yup plain distilled water and biocide, using tygon neoprene tubing this time around. the matte black goes good with the build.

pmp-500_p1-700x700.jpg

This is how it looked for the second build very basic wire management there but now that the front and back is completely filled with fans I needed better management and that's why I went with the wire runs to make it look like its part of the rad and flat. But it weighs alot thats for sure and have a 400mm rez ontop of the pump, I will post pics of how it looks now in a separate thread when I get my pump and other items.
10497479_269897066531915_1632492486532851530_o.jpg

10257722_269897106531911_6332823505397978180_o.jpg
 

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And then this is the very first computer I built, had this rad ever since because it never gets outdated lol one part that will stay with me for a long time as the hardware changes. The very first time I build it with no fans on it and just let it passively cool due to the huge surface area.

1461753_214117925443163_1121053935_n.jpg
 
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