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MOSFET, south bridge, and northbridge

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A one time member here did a geothermal loop, though he lived in Mi. I recall his water temps hovered around 14.5c. I'm sure you're temps are higher how much IDK. He dug a trench 10' L x 36" deep and put thin walled copper tubing in it then filled it back up.
 
Mandrake, you're a genius!
When I drilled the irrigation well I use 3" PVC as the casing and 1.5" PVC for the hydraulic digging. The casing pipe had a 2x4 attached to it with 2 large U-bolts. the hydraulic pipe was attached to the garden hose. Both pipes had a serrated pattern cut on the bottom for digging. I started by digging a hole with a post hole digger, put the 3" pipe in the hole, put the 1.5" pipe in the 3" pipe, and turned on the water. Then I alternated grinding into the ground with the smaller pipe and (using the 2x4 as a handle) pushing the 3" pipe into the void. I was thinking I went 40' but I hit the hard upper surface of the aquifer at 30'(ish). Then I pulled the 1.5" pipe back up, cut off the serrated bottom and put a strainer tip on it. Dropped it back into the hole, pulled out the casing pipe, filled the hole with 5' of sand, and the rest concrete (state code). So there is the method.
So if I get a 50' roll of 1/2" copper tubing. straiten it out and put 2 180 degree bends in it I will have 1 tube of 4 equal lengths of 12.5'. I can space them apart using some sort of plastic holders along the length so they will maintain equal distance from one another touching the 4 quadrants of the 3" pipe. I will use compression fittings to attach the copper to PEX, insulate the PEX, and drop it in the hole. That will give me 50 feet of cooling over a distance of 12.5' in the ground water approximately 15' below the surface.
Dude, this may work.

pc geothermal top.jpg
 
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Mandrake, you're a genius!
When I drilled the irrigation well I use 3" PVC as the casing and 1.5" PVC for the hydraulic digging. The casing pipe had a 2x4 attached to it with 2 large U-bolts. the hydraulic pipe was attached to the garden hose. Both pipes had a serrated pattern cut on the bottom for digging. I started by digging a hole with a post hole digger, put the 3" pipe in the hole, put the 1.5" pipe in the 3" pipe, and turned on the water. Then I alternated grinding into the ground with the smaller pipe and (using the 2x4 as a handle) pushing the 3" pipe into the void. I was thinking I went 40' but I hit the hard upper surface of the aquifer at 30'(ish). Then I pulled the 1.5" pipe back up, cut off the serrated bottom and put a strainer tip on it. Dropped it back into the hole, pulled out the casing pipe, filled the hole with 5' of sand, and the rest concrete (state code). So there is the method.
So if I get a 50' roll of 1/2" copper tubing. straiten it out and put 2 180 degree bends in it I will have 1 tube of 4 equal lengths of 12.5'. I can space them apart using some sort of plastic holders along the length so they will maintain equal distance from one another touching the 4 quadrants of the 3" pipe. I will use compression fittings to attach the copper to PEX, insulate the PEX, and drop it in the hole. That will give me 50 feet of cooling over a distance of 12.5' in the ground water approximately 15' below the surface.
Dude, this may work.
Genius...Not!!!! I like you just like to Oc. Too bad you don't live up north you'd get a kick out of what a few of us do in the winter to get some cold in our rigs. Radiator hanging outside my window, 700 Gph garden pump, kitty litter bucket filled with a 50/50 mixture of Antifreeze. Oh and of course, the Evil eye from the wife! I can usually get my water temps down to within 2c of the outside air, I've seen as low as -20c on really cold nights. Makes for fun Ocing, especially on these Fx 8xxx heaters.
 
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