-
Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!
My 1st Time! Pics
- Thread starter JPetrillo
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2004
- Location
- Tampa, FL
Looks good, I like how you didnt put the pump in where the PCI slots go. Darn kids think empty PCI slots are stylish or something....
- Joined
- May 22, 2004
- Location
- Gainesville, FL / Frankfurt Germany
why not turn the pump around and directly couple to the core?...much less tubing that way.
SenC.
SenC.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2003
- Location
- Pacific North West
Nice cable management.
- Thread Starter
- #25
Thanks guys 
Senater_Cache - Yes, you're right, there would be much less tube that way... a lot less. I'm a strong believer that the rad should be directly before the block though. I just feel if its not my performance wouldnt be 100%
Senater_Cache - Yes, you're right, there would be much less tube that way... a lot less. I'm a strong believer that the rad should be directly before the block though. I just feel if its not my performance wouldnt be 100%
Why? Do you have temp measuring equipment that is accurate to 0.1 degree C? That's what it would take to measure any difference in routing (and that assumes equal length tubing).JPetrillo said:
Your setup would be very clean by running the pump inlet to the bottom rad barb or mounting the pump with the inlet pointing straight up and connect the pump outlet straight to the rad.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2004
- Location
- Montgomery Alabama Yall
JP, you're making me want to start WC man. There's a guy that goes to my college who's building a phase change setup from some parts he bought online. He had WC before, so I'm considering buying it from him.
Just to ask, how much does it cost for all of the random parts that you have to buy to start WC? I wouldn't buy a prebuilt, because they are always either more expensive or just pieces of junk. But I've always wondered how much it actually costs to build your own setup.
Just to ask, how much does it cost for all of the random parts that you have to buy to start WC? I wouldn't buy a prebuilt, because they are always either more expensive or just pieces of junk. But I've always wondered how much it actually costs to build your own setup.
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2004
- Location
- Ohio
enduro said:
How much performance do you want? Watercooling can go from about $150 all the way up to like $400 or so.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2004
- Location
- Montgomery Alabama Yall
Well, I know absolutely nothing about WC, so I'll just describe what I'd like to use it for.
1) I'd like to get my cpu temp down enough that I can run 2.1V without a problem. I don't want 30°C full load at 2.1V, but 45-50 would be acceptable.
2) I'd like it to have a NB water block, but not a gpu block, because I don't overclock my vidcard.
3) I don't really care about noise so much, because I have a Tornado and Delta 70 cfm in my case, so I wouldn't mind having a radiator that requires a high pressure fan.
4) I'd still like to have fairly nice parts, but at a good price. Because I hate poor quality components, but I also hate overpriced components that do the same thing as something 20 bucks less.
So that's really what I'm thinking about. Just something that is efficient, cools well, and definitely is easy to setup and maintain.
1) I'd like to get my cpu temp down enough that I can run 2.1V without a problem. I don't want 30°C full load at 2.1V, but 45-50 would be acceptable.
2) I'd like it to have a NB water block, but not a gpu block, because I don't overclock my vidcard.
3) I don't really care about noise so much, because I have a Tornado and Delta 70 cfm in my case, so I wouldn't mind having a radiator that requires a high pressure fan.
4) I'd still like to have fairly nice parts, but at a good price. Because I hate poor quality components, but I also hate overpriced components that do the same thing as something 20 bucks less.
So that's really what I'm thinking about. Just something that is efficient, cools well, and definitely is easy to setup and maintain.
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2004
Well look around, all the answers to pretty much any question are here or over at procooling. One thing though, if you do this, even with high pressure high cfm 120's on your rad/HC, it will be MUCH quieter than one of those banshee tornado HSF rigs.
Good luck, and welcome to the fold
Good luck, and welcome to the fold
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2004
- Location
- Montgomery Alabama Yall
Well, I looked around, and for a good setup ( I guess?) it would be around 230 bucks. What cpu and chipset block would you guys recommend? I was looking at the Black Ice 120mm radiator. Tygon(?) tubing, it was only like 3 bucks per foot, not too bad, the resevoir can be anything from what I've seen and it wouldn't be that hard to build my own, although for 25 bucks you can save yourself the work. I'm guessing that distilled water is pretty cheap, so that wouldn't be that bad. The only thing I was wondering about was the waterblock and chipset block, which company tends to make the best quality copper wb.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2004
- Location
- Montgomery Alabama Yall
You know, I was thinking JP. The front of your case is really air restrictive. Something that you could do if you're in the modding frame of mind, is cut out the entire front of the case and move your power switch either up to one of your drive bays and mod one of the inserts to hold the switch, or put the switch on the top of the case. Then you would have the space to cut out the front and after that, you could just mod a bracket around the outside of the newly cut hole to hold a filter or something to hide the hole but let air through. That would look pretty cool I bet.
- Thread Starter
- #34
Heheh, its funenduro said:
Yeah, I know I could open up the front of my case more. I'm not trying to go all out with the performance though.. it will be good enough the way I got it. I still want it to look good... I think it would look ugly if i just cut up the whole front and threw the switches in a bay... none of my bays are empty anyways, they're all full.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2004
- Location
- Montgomery Alabama Yall
Well, what I was think is that you could cut the square out of the front, then use edge molding around the edges in crome or black, and then use some mesh from the front. Like aluminum mesh, not black mesh. Then you could move the power switch to the top of your case by cutting out that rectangular piece holding the power switch and then drilling holes in the power switch plate and your case, so that the rectangle goes inside the case. Then cut a hole in the top of your case smaller than the rectangular piece so that you don't get an uneven cut look and then screw it in. After that, put in some chrome edge molding around the power switch, and you're done. Excellent airflow with an easy mod. Here's the power switch idea. Just mold the open edge with chrome edging, and that would look pretty good.
- Joined
- May 22, 2004
- Location
- Gainesville, FL / Frankfurt Germany
Well you wont notice the difference !!
But the tubing lenght you save will yield better performance, even if not measurable, it will be there.
I mean you bound to save at least a foot that way !!
How were you going to route anyways??
pump->rad->block->pump->?
SenC.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2004
- Location
- Montgomery Alabama Yall
Well, I'm in the process of selling a vidcard and my EB ram, so maybe after that stuff is gone, I'll have some money to buy these parts. WC sounds like it would be fun. I'd like to hit 2.8 Ghz on this chip anyway. Something to showoff in the NF7 forum.
