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My first AND LAST forray into water cooling

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johan851 said:
Buying and selling has to be done in the classifieds section - so let's stay away from any offers and the like here. I don't think it's allowed to deal to people not cleared for the classifieds as well.

:rolleyes: sorry if that came across the wrong way, but i wasnt even close to suggesting that i wanted to buy his equipment. but surely if for whatever reason he wanted to sell it, he could sell it, somewhere.

i'm glad people are helping you, it would be a shame to have a negative experience totally turn you away from watercooling

good luck
 
After reading more about your video card problems I would first reinstall the game and if that didnt work reinstall the videocard drivers. If both of those didnt work you can reinstall the OS. What game/s are you having trouble with? I recently had some trouble with bf1942 series and it turned out some of the game got currupted somehow and it was getting all garbled/bad effects on the screen before it kicked me out. Fixed it by reinstalling the program.
 
I think I have found my problem. I would have posted this last night along with a pic, but we got 6+" of wet snow that then frose in my Direcway satelite dish which knocked out my internet connection at home. Hopefully we will get enough sun to melt it today. I pulled the card back out and went over it with a magnifying glass under brite light. What I found was where the w/b standoffs went through the pcb. There were no directions on the mounting of the bloc and I did something that I know better to do, but did it anyway. I did not put a plastic washer between the standoff and the pcb. I had looked at that but misjudged the space needed around the holes. There are some molded traces that run just close enough that when you turn the standoff to tighten it, it just scaped one fine trace line around each mount hole, scraping one and what looks like breaking the other. I am going to guess that one controls voltage to the gpu, and it is getting a bunch, because even just outputing the desktop, the caed is hot to the touch. That would explain why my case temps have risen so sharply. I KNOW better than to do what I did, it was just an oversight (an expensive one)in the excitement of the project. Now to find another vid card. I will probably just finad anothe 9800Pro. I don't see any justification for going to an XT for the $$$. Can someone tell me how, if it is possible, to remove the BGA ransinks off the broken card? They were mounted with AS Alumina Adhesive. Will the freezer trick work?
 
Why don't you try and FIX the 9800 first? Better than spending a lot of $$$. Also, I'm pretty sure the freezer trick dosen't work with epoxy.

Also, Lap the WW. The D-tek WW's are NOT FLAT and that may be the cause of your high temps. http://www.gruntville.com/reviews/wc/maze4_ww/page2.php

Now with the P4 and it's heat spreader, Lapping that WB will probably drop your temps 5-10c!

I too have virtually the same parts as you. Running at 2.5ghz @ 2.1v, my temps never break 45c. However, I don't have a GPU cooler. Here's what I have:

D-tek WW
D-tek Pro-core w/Push/Pull 120's. Only one shroud though :(
Hydor L30
All 1/2in ID tubing

I run the syetm so it is SILENT, I mean the only thing I can here is the HDD. I even have the fans in my PSU on my Rheobus! I do have to note that 2 fans really help. I'd have to run the Evercool 120mm fan at 12v to get these temps, then it was loud.

So, try to fix your current vid card, lap the WW, and buy another fan for Pro-core. Hopefully that will help you.
 
I don't know if it is fixable. Do you mean like say paint over the trace with say "rear window defogger paint" ? The trace line is really small.
Since I took the gpu block out of the loop the cpu temp has dropped some. Last night was idle at 37 and loaded (what load I could put on it) up to 41c. Take into that the Abit +5-10 factor and the temp isn't all that bad. And, the AS5 has only been through a few cycles, so it should go a bit lower yet.
 
You could try the defogger trick. I believe electronics stores like Radio Shack have a product made to fix tracers. I think it is the same paint-on concept as the defogger. Make sure you have something very small to apply it with. Maybe a toothpick with a tiny drop on the end. That way you don't get too much on the card and short things out. Good luck, and I hope you can fix it. Next time don't forget to use plastic washers! If you can't fix your card, you might want to try to sell it on Ebay. Clearly explain what you think is wrong with it, and take pics of the damaged area. Someone who is competent with fixing electronics may pick it up, and that would give you some money towards your new card.
 
I ordered a replacement today. I am half afraid to try and mess it up so that when I hit the switch it fries something else in the system, if you know what I mean. I am pretty sure what is messed up is controlling voltage to the gpu, hence the high heat output. I have spent enough extra on this episode. I will take a look at fixing it when the new one gets here.. There is also an electronics reapir place just down the block from my office. They did the Quadro hack on a GF2 fro me so they are used to working with small things. My main concern now is trying to reclaim 20 bucks worthy of ramsinks to go on the new card. I still sit here and wonder how I did that, I KNOW better.
 
Dont try to get the ramsinks off. Tiny bga ram is very weak compared to normal ram and epoxy will no doubt hold onto the ram forever. The ramsinks are stuck on there for good. I would just focus on getting the card fixed. It sounds like it shouldnt be too hard to fix. That way you dont have to pry off the $20 of heatsinks and accidentally rip the ram off a potentially fixable video card.
 
repairing those traces shouldnt be too hard man. first use an xacto knife or similar to scrape some of the coating off of the traces to get better connection with the trace repair. start on the outside one (theres 2 damaged right?) and go over it with a trace repair pen, not hitting the other traces that are scrached. then cover that with super glue to insulate it and keep it from shorting against the other one. then go over the second trace, connecting it. then cover with glue. now follow the traces to somewhere where you can test if they are shorted with a multimeter (on ohms or conductivity) hopefully all should be good, then do the same on the second hole. and keep in mind next time to BE CAREFUL WHEN PUTTING A SCREW THROUGH PCB HOLES! hehe. i really hope everything works out for ya man.
 
Yeah, rear window defogger paint should work. First use some fine sandpaper and sand the mask off the damaged trace to expose about an 1/8th inch of copper. Then use the defogger paint to reapir the trace. should work.

One other suggestion besides lapping the WW, invest in another 120mm fan. It really helps. I can run two 120's in a push/pull setup at ~5-6v and get better temps than one evercool at full speed. My system's dead silent right now and at 33.5C with an ambient temp of 30C.
 
The card is fixed. I have a friend who is taking Electrical Engineering and works part-time in an electronics shop. Him and his boss worked on it just for the practice with their new "trace work station" There was one trace that was broken, which they bridged with the smallest piece of wire they could find. Looks weird under magnification, but with a cooler of any kind on it you don't even see it. I put it back in to test and ran it for 3 weeks without a hitch. I pulled it back out and went back to the one with the VGA Silencer. I am going to let a friend have it for a low price since he is a poor college student. I pass alot of my stuff down to him as it keeps him somewhat up to date at college student prices.
 
Back to what they should be, anyway. I am guessing that the trace was part of the voltage regulator and when the 3d acceleration kicked in it overvolted to the max which caused the artifacts and the heat. Not an educated guess mind you, but it does make sense and sound good.
 
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