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My passive radiator built of 1/2 in copper pipe
- Thread starter Cyrix_2k
- Start date
OP
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- Jul 5, 2003
- Location
- Frederick, MD
- Thread Starter
- #22
I got everything at Lowes. It was a little less than $7 for 10 feet.
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- May 20, 2003
- Location
- Colleyville, TX
That's badass... both of you. Way to be different.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2003
Gotta plug my passive rad 
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OP
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- Jul 5, 2003
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- Frederick, MD
- Thread Starter
- #26
nice. I think I'm going to copy that design when I work on upgrading this one. Should be much less restrictive and cool as wellReflex said:I did something similar but i used compression fittings as i found it easier:
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2001
- Location
- Corner of No and Where
I was going to mention exactly what jamesavery22 used as a way to increase surface area very easily.
I have messed with a pair of 4' radiator unit like those, and they do work ok- more surface area being better, of course.
Making your own fins can be done for far less money, but it will be quite a lot of work and the critical contact points may be hard to do well...
Gotta love home made stuff that works though.
Nice job.
I have messed with a pair of 4' radiator unit like those, and they do work ok- more surface area being better, of course.
Making your own fins can be done for far less money, but it will be quite a lot of work and the critical contact points may be hard to do well...
Gotta love home made stuff that works though.
Nice job.
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2006
Reflex said:I did something similar but i used compression fittings as i found it easier:
That looks great hows the temps/flow on that system and where did you get the fittings.
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2004
- Location
- Toronto
Reflex said:I did something similar but i used compression fittings as i found it easier:
That's pretty bad @$$. Nice job.
I'm having problems with the pump at the mo, its a Hydor L30 that's eaten one impellor and is eating the replacement one Hydor sent me. I'm goning to replace it with a D5 when they're in stock. Which is what i got told to do when i first posted my rig but choose to ignore it
Now with my excuses out the way it runs about 10C over ambient load with the rad fans on (there's a 120mm * 2 rad in the base) and about 12-14C over ambient with the fans off for an hour or so (but then the pump makes very scary noises) and settles out at about 15-18C over ambient if i leave the fans off as reported by mbm.
Little River Storm G4
MCW50 (i think thats the right code for the gpu block)
Hydor L30 II
XSPC R120-D
~6m of 1/2" copper pipe. (12 50cm lengths)
9500 Pro
2500xp-m @ 2300
edit: you should be able to get the fittings from any DIY shop, both compression and the solder ones. (i got them from wickes in the uk)
OP
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- Jul 5, 2003
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- Frederick, MD
- Thread Starter
- #31
lol, I had an L30 I that ate an impellor. I now have a MCP600 and it's one of the best decisions I've ever made.
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2003
- Location
- Cedar Rapids, Iowa
A relatively cheap way of adding a bit more cooling surface might be to solder a sheet of copper/other cheaper metal sheeting onto the pipes. Would be one giant fin, which wouldn't be as good as lots of smaller ones but it think it should still increase cooling.
OP
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- Jul 5, 2003
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- Frederick, MD
- Thread Starter
- #34
Sorry I can't be more accurate about this... My goal was silence rather than excellent temperatures so I really don't have an accurate idea of what my loop is capable of. My temps are the same now (heatercore + pipe) with no fans running as they were with just the heatercore and my 120x38mm, 124CFM Y.S. Tech fan running at ~9volts. That is my motherboard reports that I'm running at 51c load in a room that's ~70f; that jumps to about 60c at a room temp around 80f. Please bear in mind that my mobo seems to report temperatures about 10c too high. Also interesting to note is that the temperature also fluctates far less between idle and load temps after the addition of the pipe, but I don't why this would be.n6b72g said:
If you do decide to try this, use the design reflex used. My design adds a lot of resistance to the loop since all the water must travel through all the pipe; reflex's allows the water to flow through many passages of the same length which should dissapate the same amount of heat, but add far less resistance to the loop resulting in overall lower temperatures.
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2003
- Location
- Cedar Rapids, Iowa
I would guess there's less temp. fluctuations because there's a whole lot more water to heat up than a small loop with only a heatercore.
OP
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- Jul 5, 2003
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- Frederick, MD
- Thread Starter
- #37
Fins would work MUCH bettern6b72g said:
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2005
n6b72g said:
That would be a crap-shoot. The larger tubing would mean that the water is moving more slowly (not as good for heat transfer from water to metal) but the copper's surface area would be much larger. No way to know which one would be the larger effect until it's tried.
If you have a large fast pump to keep waterspeed up, go for it.
For the 12v pumps, I'd stay stick with the 1/2" and maybe add more tubing instead.
I tend to prefer the single pipe way of making it instead of the multi path one. Reflex's example sure is a nice compact package, but dang that water must be just crawling through those parallel pipes.
I'd also bet that the pipes on the right get warmer than those on the left (in the pic) because of preferential waterflow...most of the flow will be going through the shortest path.
I'm in no way digging on him for it though, because his is portable! so he can share that beautiful copper goodness!
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- Dec 17, 2005
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were did u get the hardwareReflex said:I did something similar but i used compression fittings as i found it easier:
