Need help with cooling problem on new system

[justanotherguy]

I've been a lurker for a while and registered because I need some help. I am building a new system and having problems with the water cooling.

The system is made up of the following;
Logisys CS8009BK case and it's built in cooling (Same as Ikonik RA 2000 liquid)
ASUS Crossahair Extreme Motherboard
AMD 1100T Black
16gb GSkills Ripjaw DDR3 1600
A pair of ASUS HD 5670 Crossfire cards
Antec TPQ-1200 Power Supply
300gb Raptor boot drive
A pair of WD10EALX 1TB drives raid 0 for data

I have Windows 7 64 bit loaded and stable with the 1100T at stock speed.

The problem is with the cooling. On water I idle at 38C and Prime95 takes the temps to 70C within minutes. This is with the pump and fan controllers set at "Performance" which is the max setting. I know the pump is running and I've purged the air more than one but still no luck.

If I take off the water block and place the stock cooler that comes with the 1100T the system idles at 28C - 30C and Prime95 running for 2 hours averages 48C never goes above 53C.

This is my first water system and I need ideas on fixing the cooling so I can get this thing overclocked.

 

[justanotherguy]

PS I am using Artic Silver 5 on the block using the single 4mm drop suggested for the AMD chip.

 

[Conumdrum]

That is one odd system. Aluminum rad and res with a copper block. Hope they tell you to use very good anti-corrosion liquid.

The rad has 4 80mm fans. Looking at a review pics they aren't really on the rad.

I have never seen that system anywhere. I just can't say if it's the system being unable of handling a modern CPU or it's broke.

I'd get rid of it completely. It looks weak and just really wrong. If temps are too high and they allow a full refund, please do it. Even an H70 Corsair unit can keep temps better than that odd unit. Oe even a good air cooler.

Honesty is number one in my way.

 

[Daemonkin]

That case is a rebadged Ikonik RA X10 LIQUID.

It was released in 08, and even then did not get very good reviews on it's ability to cool.

http://www.guru3d.com/article/ikonik-ra-x10-liquid-review/13

With a c2q it cooled about the same as high end air of the time.

 

[Conumdrum]

08, witch means it's weak by the standards back then, and behind the times now.

Just, it's ot going to be worth keeping. Dump it.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Unfortunately I think Conumdrum hit the nail on the head. If the stock cooler is doing a better job and you've tried re-mounting the water block, you may just want to ditch it and start over. I'd look into how they advertise it and, as he said, try to get a refund if it's not performing as stated.

Sorry you got stuck with a bad solution from the get-go. Water cooling is a great way to get superb temps (and quiet, if that's your thing), but it needs to be done with quality components or it's no better than air.

There is hope though...see if your vendor will do anything about it. I'd offer to get a case + air cooler (or one of the Corsair H70's) for a zero-sum exchange and see if they take you up on it.

 

[justanotherguy]

I'm afraid I am past the return period for the case.

I think the problem lies in one of two areas. The cooling block or the pump. When running Prime95 and the temps are getting close to 70c I never feel any temp change at the cooling block or the tubing. Also, if I pop open the quick disconnect and introduce an air bubble it seems to take the pump a while to move it out of the lines.

If possible I'd like to savlage the radiators and fans. So should I buy a new pump, tank and block and give it a try. Alternatively, should I just remove the WC components and go buy a good air cooler like an NH-d14?

I really would like a system that doesn't have too much fan noise.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Alternatively, should I just remove the WC components and go buy a good air cooler like an NH-d14?

That.

Unfortunately the items you wish to save (radiators + fans) are the part you should get rid of. They are aluminum and the combination of those plus any copper components will lead to galvanic corrosion unless you use cumbersome corrosion inhibitors (i.e. antifreeze).

Plus those radiators just can't deal with much heat at all. They're tiny, have little surface area and just generally aren't all that great. I'm sorry to be saying these things, and am not trying to insult your gear. I'd just rather you know all of this now rather than wasting your time (and money) getting a new block and pump to go with radiators that should also be removed.

The ND-H14 would be a superb solution for you. Assuming you have an average 1100T, 4GHz 24/7 operation ~1.41V with temps under 50°C isn't even remotely out of the question.

 

[justanotherguy]

hokiealumnus,

First thank you for taking the time to reply and offer advice.

I am not trying to defend my gear just looking for information to keep from making a bad choice again. The strange thing is that when I run a heavy CPU load with any benchmark and the temps start climbing none of the cooling system seems to pickup any heat. I need to pickup a infrared thermometer but I'd swear that the cooling block, tubing, and radiators all stay at the same temp regardless of the CPU temp.

I'm tempted to unplug the pump and run Prime95. I'd bet alot of money that the temps raise exactly the same and no higher with the pump off.

PS the provided coolant does include an anti-corrosive to address the copper and aluminum mix.

 

[hokiealumnus]

The only time I've had a component in my loop get hot to the touch was the block when my pump died. Provided you have an adequately designed water loop, the water's delta T (temperature differential between water temperature and ambient temperature) should be under 10°C, so it's normal to not feel heat in loop components.

In your case it sounds like the block perhaps can't remove the heat fast enough to keep the CPU cool, just to keep it imploding. Only after a relatively long period would you possibly feel the block heating up; the heat may not be making its way to the radiators to really employ their services, such that they are.

 

[Owenator]

That's def a big case. I think the rads are it's greatest weakness. Looks like the radiator is essentially a 2x120 but quite thin. There looks to be enough space for a front mounted radiator. You could try replacing just that with a current 2x120 and see what temps you get. If you don't mind some modding there looks to be space for a lot more.

 

[spitter3]

hokiealumnus,

First thank you for taking the time to reply and offer advice.

I am not trying to defend my gear just looking for information to keep from making a bad choice again. The strange thing is that when I run a heavy CPU load with any benchmark and the temps start climbing none of the cooling system seems to pickup any heat. I need to pickup a infrared thermometer but I'd swear that the cooling block, tubing, and radiators all stay at the same temp regardless of the CPU temp.

I'm tempted to unplug the pump and run Prime95. I'd bet alot of money that the temps raise exactly the same and no higher with the pump off.

PS the provided coolant does include an anti-corrosive to address the copper and aluminum mix.

Yeah feel the block and the rads, if the block is cool with full load, it is more likely to be a mount issue with the block and make sure your rads are drawing in ambient air, no case air.