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Need opinions for Haswell watercooling setup

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M

MaStA

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Joined
Dec 12, 2004
Location
Hampton, VA
Hello,

I have all of my watercooling components from when I watercooled my Core 2 Duo. Since then I have not watercooled my sandy bridge/haswell, but I was looking to replace my Hyper 212+ Evo in hopes to lower the high temperatures of my 4770k haswell.

I will have to get a new waterblock and was hoping for some opinions on which one is the best for the money.

Do you feel my current radiator will be sufficient for cooling only the processor? It did fine for the Core 2 Duo and I don't recall if those ran hot or not. I do not recall what brand the radiator is.

What coolant/additive do you recommend? I think I used some green swiftech stuff in my last setup.

The pump (Laing D5 aka Swiftech MCP644) I have seems to still be a highly recommended pump so I imagine that will be fine.

Here is a picture of everything (fans not pictured):
20140106_183553_zps09c3fa3d.jpg

Thank you in advance for any input,
Jared
 
That looks like a black ice extreme II. I have one in my box o parts. http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-rad-12.html

Mine would clog up with dust very easily if the fans weren't filtered, because it was much higher fpi than my swiftech rad. But it I will have soon)s a very good radiator if you have the fan power to push air through it. And any 120.2 is enough for a haswell chip.

For the money, its hard to beat the xspc raystorm block on a budget. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ckets_LGA_115x_1366_2011.html?tl=g30c325s1118

As for coolant and additives, distilled water plus biocide or silver kill coil is what you want.


Edit: for what it's worth, I am heat limited on my 4670k on a custom loop (120.6 and 140.2) at 4.5ghz. Prime95 28.1 hits 91c in a cool room at 4.5 1.25vcore. These chips just run stupid hot.
 
Last edited:
Supertrucker said:
That looks like a black ice extreme II. I have one in my box o parts. http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-rad-12.html

Mine would clog up with dust very easily if the fans weren't filtered, because it was much higher fpi than my swiftech rad. But it is a very good radiator if you have the fan power to push air through it. And any 120.2 is enough for a haswell chip.

For the money, its hard to beat the xspc raystorm block on a budget. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ckets_LGA_115x_1366_2011.html?tl=g30c325s1118

As for coolant and additives, distilled water plus biocide or silver kill coil is what you want.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply.

If I remember correctly all of my barbs are 1/2" ID and the hose is 3/8" ID which provided a nice tight fit. I wonder if my barbs from my D-Tek Fuzion would work in any waterblock such as this XSPC RayStorm.

Would you happen to know?

Thanks!
 
If the fuzion has g1/4 threads then yeah the barbs will fit in a modern block. For that matter, you could probably find mounting hardware to use a dtek fuzion on haswell, waterblocks haven't really gone all that far in the last few years.

I like 7/16s id over half inch barbs, 3/8s will go but you would all but have to boil the end of the tube to do it.
 
Supertrucker said:
If the fuzion has g1/4 threads then yeah the barbs will fit in a modern block. For that matter, you could probably find mounting hardware to use a dtek fuzion on haswell, waterblocks haven't really gone all that far in the last few years.

I like 7/16s id over half inch barbs, 3/8s will go but you would all but have to boil the end of the tube to do it.
Click to expand...

It actually may be 7/16 ID tubing now that I think of it...I ordered it from that popular website that starts with an M if I remember correctly.

I did look into re-using this block, but it seems since I have the original Fuzion and not the v1, that there is not a mount for socket 1150 like there is for the v1 and v2.
 
Yeah, I have an apogee gtz that has a slotted screw area so it works on 775/1156/1366 all with the same hold down plate, the mounting holes are pretty close. Let us know if it works, if you decide to try it.
 
Supertrucker said:
Yeah, I have an apogee gtz that has a slotted screw area so it works on 775/1156/1366 all with the same hold down plate, the mounting holes are pretty close. Let us know if it works, if you decide to try it.
Click to expand...

So do you think I should just try the 775 holes since they are close or should I try using a dremel to extend the holes outwards slightly so the bolts will be closer to being straight instead of angled?
 
If you have a dremel I would try to slot the holes a little. I wouldn't run angled bolts through my motherboard, especially considering how tight a waterblock has to be for optimal performance. Just seems to be asking for trouble to me.
 
Supertrucker said:
If you have a dremel I would try to slot the holes a little. I wouldn't run angled bolts through my motherboard, especially considering how tight a waterblock has to be for optimal performance. Just seems to be asking for trouble to me.
Click to expand...

I don't know what an angled bolt is, but simply using the 775 holes would make the bolts crooked slightly since they are not as far out as 1150 holes.
 
I'm going to modify the mounting bracket and I will use the pushpin mounts on a stock haswell heatsink to see how the newly created holes line up I suppose.
 
What I meant was I wouldn't run the waterblock bolts at an angle through the board. They will try to pull straight as you tighten the block and that will put pressure on the sides of the mounting holes.

And yeah, that silver strip is what I use coiled in my res, been using it for two years with just a couple of water flushes and my loop stays clean.
 
Supertrucker said:
What I meant was I wouldn't run the waterblock bolts at an angle through the board. They will try to pull straight as you tighten the block and that will put pressure on the sides of the mounting holes.

And yeah, that silver strip is what I use coiled in my res, been using it for two years with just a couple of water flushes and my loop stays clean.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Well I will let you know how it goes when I get around to trying all of this out. Thanks!
 
Make sure you flush and clean all your existing parts that you will be using in this loop. You should be good to go than.
 
GTXJackBauer said:
Make sure you flush and clean all your existing parts that you will be using in this loop. You should be good to go than.
Click to expand...

What do you recommend flushing/cleaning the parts with? I've read people have used vinegar, etc., but I figured I would see what your recommendations are. Thanks!
 
Well, I would just use hot distilled water. Shake the hell out of the radiator full while plugged and repeat the process 5 times or so. (Don't burn your hands :p) Open the water block and rinse it with a toothbrush and distilled water. If there's any buildup I would than use some vinegar and distilled water @ 40%/60% I think. Some even have used ketchup if I recall correctly. Just don't let any of these acids sit too long on metal. Open the pump, rinse it with distilled as well. Just basically make sure there's no buildup. You might have oxidization but that's ok.

I would just buy new tubing. PrimoChill Advanced LRT
 
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