- Joined
- Dec 4, 2017
- Location
- San Angelo, Texas aka Hell
Hi all,
New to the forum and wanted to touch base with some of the experienced water coolers in regards to my, for all practical purposes first water cooling build. My last build was an HTPC with a pre-built Corsair closed loop water cooler for the CPU.
I am planning what I would call a semi-custom hard loop build. My kit is as follows:
I. Corsair 780T full tower in white
II. 3 Corsair RGB 120mm fans
III. Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 MB running a i7-8700K
IV. 32GB, (2x16GB) Corsair RGB memory
V. Corsair RM750x modular power supply
VI. EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti (yeah I know, but I had to save money somewhere and I’m not a hardcore gamer)
VII. Thermaltake PETG bending kit CL-w093-AL00BL-A, (since I’m a first timer I figured this was worth the extra expense)
VIII. Thermaltake Pacific DIY LCS 500mm Lengths V-Tubler PETG Hard Tubing (4-Pack) OD 16mm (5/8") x ID 12mm (1/2") CL-W065-PL16TR-A
IX. Thermaltake Pacific RL120 Water Cooling Kit (120mm radiator, flexible tubing).
I know this isn’t top of the line, but I bought it to use as a basis for my loop, (I can’t justify a $400 cooling loop). I am replacing the radiator with a 360 (at some point I will upgrade the GPU and add it to the loop), PETG compatible compression fittings and a flow indicator
I’ve been browsing FrozenCPU to get an idea on the compression fitting etc.
Questions
1. I want to setup a draining line so that I can drain and flush the loop at some point. I want it external to the case. I saw some drains, but I’m not sure what the best way to integrate them into the loop is. I don’t want a line with a valve sitting with stagnate coolant in it. If there are some photos or suggested diagrams that you can point me too it would be much appreciated.
2. From what I’ve read I gather that there are two ways to attach things to you water block etc. You can bend the tubing and plug it into the compression fitting on the water block, or you can screw fitting onto the water block and then add angled fittings that rotate instead of doing bends. Or a combination of the two. Is my understanding correct?
Thanks
Gordon
New to the forum and wanted to touch base with some of the experienced water coolers in regards to my, for all practical purposes first water cooling build. My last build was an HTPC with a pre-built Corsair closed loop water cooler for the CPU.
I am planning what I would call a semi-custom hard loop build. My kit is as follows:
I. Corsair 780T full tower in white
II. 3 Corsair RGB 120mm fans
III. Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 MB running a i7-8700K
IV. 32GB, (2x16GB) Corsair RGB memory
V. Corsair RM750x modular power supply
VI. EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti (yeah I know, but I had to save money somewhere and I’m not a hardcore gamer)
VII. Thermaltake PETG bending kit CL-w093-AL00BL-A, (since I’m a first timer I figured this was worth the extra expense)
VIII. Thermaltake Pacific DIY LCS 500mm Lengths V-Tubler PETG Hard Tubing (4-Pack) OD 16mm (5/8") x ID 12mm (1/2") CL-W065-PL16TR-A
IX. Thermaltake Pacific RL120 Water Cooling Kit (120mm radiator, flexible tubing).
I know this isn’t top of the line, but I bought it to use as a basis for my loop, (I can’t justify a $400 cooling loop). I am replacing the radiator with a 360 (at some point I will upgrade the GPU and add it to the loop), PETG compatible compression fittings and a flow indicator
I’ve been browsing FrozenCPU to get an idea on the compression fitting etc.
Questions
1. I want to setup a draining line so that I can drain and flush the loop at some point. I want it external to the case. I saw some drains, but I’m not sure what the best way to integrate them into the loop is. I don’t want a line with a valve sitting with stagnate coolant in it. If there are some photos or suggested diagrams that you can point me too it would be much appreciated.
2. From what I’ve read I gather that there are two ways to attach things to you water block etc. You can bend the tubing and plug it into the compression fitting on the water block, or you can screw fitting onto the water block and then add angled fittings that rotate instead of doing bends. Or a combination of the two. Is my understanding correct?
Thanks
Gordon