- Joined
- Jun 11, 2004
Some people have more trouble than others with T-lines. Nearly everyone agrees that filling and bleeding is easy with a res.Rickster said:which is better to manage a t-line or a reservoir? like which is easier to drain, fill and bleed?
The first one is aluminum, which introduces the problem of galvanic corrosion due to dissilmar metals in the loop. This isn't as big a problem as many make it out to be, but I suggest sticking with copper, brass, and plastic for your first rig just because it's one less thing to worry about.if i go for a t-line, i can get that t-joint from a hardware store right? i really dont want to be making reservoirs. Is there certain designs that would make a reservoir better than the other?
if i do go for a reservoir im really looking at these two
swiftech micro hi-flow
or
watercool reservoir 2
No. I use a third barb on my rad.otter do you use a t-line or a reservoir?
That's one way. If you're going to use a T, consider a drain line off another T. Having a second T-line can also make filling easier because it gives the air somewhere to go. The extra fitting will cause a slight pressure drop, but I doubt it will make any practical difference with a 655 driving the loop.i heard that if you use a t-line you have to cut the tube when you want to drain the system. don't like the sound of that.
You mean the wall thickness? Yes, 1/2"ID 3/4"OD. 7/16"ID 5/8"OD bends more easily may be slightly less restrictive in systems with less than 7 feet of tubing because the ID of the tubing matches the ID of 1/2" barbs. That's based on calculations by Cathar. I'm not sure if anyone has actually tested it, but I trust Cathar's theoretical calcuations more than most watercoolers' hard data.secondly, about tubing... i planning for a 1/2" ID, so i want to get a tube that is 1/8' in thickness?
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=331742
Don't be! You did your homework and asked your questions properly. That's what the forum for.thats my last question. sorry