Not a request you haven't heard before.

[Theocnoob]

Duly noted, sir. No trusta da Rosewill. Damn those swindlers can make a pile of **** look pretty, though. Ah well. Advice appreciated and taken. Corsair it is!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139036

This one should suit me, yes?

That case will be fine. For $50 you can get the 760T and get a wicked massive plexiglass window to view the guts of your new toy. Just sayin'....

Buy some brothers for the included fans (Hello, LED fans. I did not know you were a thing!)

There are colored LED light strips as well. Very good for systems with a side window. Useless for cases without one.

and the case is good to go (and also metal as ****)! So imposing, too! Exactly what I was getting at, with the color scheme and all that. Next issue! A series of worries have plagued me with some questions with the actual building process.

Will I need any specialized, specific tools?

Magnetized phillips head screwdriver. Anti static wrist strap or nitrile rubber gloves, non conductive surface (such as the bag the motherboard comes in). Do not build on carpet or with your shoes on.

What about static? I keep seeing horror stories of people accidentally zapping and destroying either a single part or many, and that would just devastate both my wallet and I. I'd seriously start bawling. Is this a legitimate concern?

Take an extra motherboard standoff (google it) and screw it into the power supply mounted in the case (do this first), attatch the anti static strap to this.


Is it safe to buy all these pieces over several weeks or months and assemble it a bit at a time, or should I just leave them in their boxes until I have them all and build it all at once?

No! Buy everything at once. Some new part at an amazing price may show up between when you start buying parts and when you finish. Save up, buy all at once. Always.

Is the build process pretty straightforward?

Carey Holzman. Watch his youtube videos. They're so detailed they're 2 hours long.

Windows 7's still alright, right? 8's newer and all, but I don't particularly care about which OS version I have as long as it successfully runs my ****, and 7 seems to work fine for other people. Also cheaper. Is there any reason I'd really want to get the new one?

Win 8 will support Direct X 12. Win 7 will not. Also, Win 7 will not be supported for as long as Win 8. You can make Win 8 run just like Win 7 with some 2 minute modifications. It's a lighter weight OS and is just all around better to have.

Motherboard standoff for reference:

 

[Heartomaton]

That case will be fine. For $50 you can get the 760T and get a wicked massive plexiglass window to view the guts of your new toy. Just sayin'....

There are colored LED light strips as well. Very good for systems with a side window. Useless for cases without one.[/COLOR]

Magnetized phillips head screwdriver. Anti static wrist strap or nitrile rubber gloves, non conductive surface (such as the bag the motherboard comes in). Do not build on carpet or with your shoes on.

Take an extra motherboard standoff (google it) and screw it into the power supply mounted in the case (do this first), attatch the anti static strap to this.

No! Buy everything at once. Some new part at an amazing price may show up between when you start buying parts and when you finish. Save up, buy all at once. Always.

Carey Holzman. Watch his youtube videos. They're so detailed they're 2 hours long.

Win 8 will support Direct X 12. Win 7 will not. Also, Win 7 will not be supported for as long as Win 8. You can make Win 8 run just like Win 7 with some 2 minute modifications. It's a lighter weight OS and is just all around better to have. [/I]

Where's the 760T for $50? All I can find is the one for $169 on Newegg. I'm sold on it at that price, if I can find it.

Would it be better to get the wrist strap or the nitrile gloves? If nitrile gloves can be bought in pretty much the same area and price as regular old dishwashing gloves (All of a sudden I feel really dumb. Hmm.), I'll probably go that route, but it the wrist strap is the best and safest bet then I'll do that.

Buy all at once and get an extra standoff and Win8. Then watch Carey Holzman. Gotcha, doing that.

I've also heard stories of parts arriving in an already ****ed-up state. Dead on arrival, they say. Is this a regular occurrance? I assume if it is then remedying the issue depends on the sellers exchange/return policies.

 

[GearingMass]

...non conductive surface (such as the bag the motherboard comes in)

Be careful with this, some of the bags are designed to protect what's inside them from static, but not what's on top.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Be careful with this, some of the bags are designed to protect what's inside them from static, but not what's on top.

+1.

Much safer to use the motherboard BOX than the BAG.
The protection from static is due to the outside being able to conduct static electricity away from the internal contents.

 

[Theocnoob]

Where's the 760T for $50? All I can find is the one for $169 on Newegg. I'm sold on it at that price, if I can find it.

I meant an ADDITIONAL $50. Not $50. It's clearly not a $50 case.

Would it be better to get the wrist strap or the nitrile gloves? If nitrile gloves can be bought in pretty much the same area and price as regular old dishwashing gloves (All of a sudden I feel really dumb. Hmm.), I'll probably go that route, but it the wrist strap is the best and safest bet then I'll do that.

Either way will work just as well assuming the gloves have no tears. You can get them at pharmacies.

Buy all at once and get an extra standoff and Win8. Then watch Carey Holzman. Gotcha, doing that.

Doesn't have to be a standoff. It can be an unpainted screw too. Any unpainted metal part that is grounded. Some people suggest plugging the PSU (after grounding yourself to it) to an UNPOWERED (but plugged in) power bar. I dont know how that works.

I've also heard stories of parts arriving in an already ****ed-up state. Dead on arrival, they say. Is this a regular occurrance? I assume if it is then remedying the issue depends on the sellers exchange/return policies.

DOA parts are not common. I have never experienced a DOA part and I have built about 12 systems. Maybe a couple more. It does happen though. For this reason I prefer to shop at my local Canada Computers (a very robust retailer with good prices) vs Newegg.com. I can drive back to the store and swap it the same day.

+1.

Much safer to use the motherboard BOX than the BAG.
The protection from static is due to the outside being able to conduct static electricity away from the internal contents.

Um.... The bag is a non conductive surface. The box is a non conductive surface. It makes no difference which you use. Clealy, the bag is not anti static unless the mobo is inside it.
This comes from Carey Holzman who has been building computers for 20 years and has built (according to him) 20,000+ systems.

 

[GearingMass]

The bag is a non conductive surface. The box is a non conductive surface. It makes no difference which you use.

Look at the bag below, the bag says conductive grid surface. Inside, it's safe, outside, it's a conductive surface, and should not be used.

It depends on the bag, better to not use the bag just in case. Like ATM said, the MB box is a great non-conductive workplace.

 

[Theocnoob]

Look at the bag below, the bag says conductive grid surface. Inside, it's safe, outside, it's a conductive surface, and should not be used.

It depends on the bag, better to not use the bag just in case. Like ATM said, the MB box is a great non-conductive workplace.

View attachment 146964

I have not read that. If its safe for the bag to be INSIDE the conductive grid why isn't it safe for it to be outside? Makes no sense to me but I'll drop the subject.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

I have not read that. If its safe for the bag to be INSIDE the conductive grid why isn't it safe for it to be outside? Makes no sense to me but I'll drop the subject.

Because there's a non-conductive layer inside the bag....

See my explanation above...

It uses the outer conductive layer to protect the inside.
The theory behind it is the same as the Faraday Cage.

 

[ASUS ROG]

You all confuse the hell out of the new guy
To the new guy, first off, watch this 3 video to get some clue

Watch those 3 video and come back here so you have a better understanding of what those veteran here are talking about.

 

[Heartomaton]

I meant an ADDITIONAL $50. Not $50. It's clearly not a $50 case.

Either way will work just as well assuming the gloves have no tears. You can get them at pharmacies.

Doesn't have to be a standoff. It can be an unpainted screw too. Any unpainted metal part that is grounded. Some people suggest plugging the PSU (after grounding yourself to it) to an UNPOWERED (but plugged in) power bar. I dont know how that works.

DOA parts are not common. I have never experienced a DOA part and I have built about 12 systems. Maybe a couple more. It does happen though. For this reason I prefer to shop at my local Canada Computers (a very robust retailer with good prices) vs Newegg.com. I can drive back to the store and swap it the same day.

Ah. Misunderstood. Well, it is a nice case, but I'll go with the one I picked out. I do think the window is a badass feature to have, especially taking into account the potential for the addition of those LED strips you mentioned, but it's not necessarily something I'd splurge on right now. I'll definitely consider it for future computer upgrades, though.

If I fill every available fan slot, will it be enough to sufficiently cool everything if I choose to overclock?

Gloves. Check. Awesome.

Ah, okay. Worry about DOA parts 83% alleviated.

Okay, so what we have here, after several days of scattered but omfgsooooo incredibly helpful communications, is this:

Case: Corsair Graphite Series 730T

It says it has tool-free SSD, Hard Drive, and Optical Drive installation. I get the feeling this doesn't change things much. Right?

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler

Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Storage: Either Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive or Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Which one? Or both? Am I supposed to get both? I am, aren't I?

Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Dual-X Video Card

Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply

Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer

Good to go? I'm excited!

 

[Theocnoob]

If I fill every available fan slot, will it be enough to sufficiently cool everything if I choose to overclock?


[*]Yes. You don't need to fill every single slot. 2 front, 1 top, 1 back is enough. Feel free to add as many fans as you want. You may want to go with quiet fans. Corsair makes a quiet series of their AF fans. Having 10 fans running at 1500RPM droning away is kind of annoying. I've been there. The more fans the better but at a certain point you get diminishing returns.


Gloves. Check. Awesome.

Ah, okay. Worry about DOA parts 83% alleviated.

Okay, so what we have here, after several days of scattered but omfgsooooo incredibly helpful c ommunications, is this:

Case: Corsair Graphite Series 730T

It says it has tool-free SSD, Hard Drive, and Optical Drive installation. I get the feeling this doesn't change things much. Right?

Tool free just means you don't need screws for those parts.

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler

Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard

I still prefer the ASRock Z97 extreme 6.
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Storage: Either Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive or Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Which one? Or both? Am I supposed to get both? I am, aren't I?

both
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Dual-X Video Card

Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply

Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer

Good to go? I'm excited!

Yes, go ahead and buy now.

Keep in mind one thing- the Hyper 212 should get you to maybe 4.3Ghz. Maybe a bit more. If you want to go higher get a better CPU cooler instead. Noctua's NHD14 or Corsair's H100i (make sure your case is compatible). They are 3-4X the price though so you really have to ask yourself if that's worth it to you for a couple hundred MHZ. You won't notice those Mhz in day to day use though.

 

[Robert17]

Shameless F@H recruiting will now commence:

Get a much better CPU cooler. You'll need it when overclocking and Folding @ Home for Team 32. A truly good cause and way to put unused CPU + GPU cycles to good use.

 

[Theocnoob]

Shameless F@H recruiting will now commence:

Get a much better CPU cooler. You'll need it when overclocking and Folding @ Home for Team 32. A truly good cause and way to put unused CPU + GPU cycles to good use.

The flip side of that is that running hardware hot and under heavy load constantly like that will affect lifespan. Especially for components like fans on GPUs.

 

[Robert17]

The flip side of that is that running hardware hot and under heavy load constantly like that will affect lifespan. Especially for components like fans on GPUs.

...like mine !

 

[Heartomaton]

[*]Yes. You don't need to fill every single slot. 2 front, 1 top, 1 back is enough. Feel free to add as many fans as you want. You may want to go with quiet fans. Corsair makes a quiet series of their AF fans. Having 10 fans running at 1500RPM droning away is kind of annoying. I've been there. The more fans the better but at a certain point you get diminishing returns.




I still prefer the ASRock Z97 extreme 6.

both
Yes, go ahead and buy now.

Keep in mind one thing- the Hyper 212 should get you to maybe 4.3Ghz. Maybe a bit more. If you want to go higher get a better CPU cooler instead. Noctua's NHD14 or Corsair's H100i (make sure your case is compatible). They are 3-4X the price though so you really have to ask yourself if that's worth it to you for a couple hundred MHZ. You won't notice those Mhz in day to day use though.

Couple extra fans, but not overboard. Checkaroo.

Hrm, this 'ASRock Z97 Extreme 6' is only about 15 extra dollars. Well worth a little extra if the difference in performance is that noticeable and it still fits with the rest of this setup.

Both and the purchases can commence! Onward!

I think this cooling will do just fine for my purposes and maybe some basic overclocking. Anything more sounds like something for later on. My central idea is for this machine to be a starting place. Nothing overtly fancy, just strong enough to rely on until I can afford something grander. Like anyone who starts doing Let's Plays or other YouTube related entertaining, I do harbor some hope that I'm lucky enough to make enough money doing it so that I can do it (and all the extensive other things it brings with it, collaborations, skit comedy, ComicCon, wish fulfillment,and the like) full time. Then, most likely only then, will I start looking into more powerful setups in order to keep up with everyone else.

If it doesn't happen, then that's okay too. In that scenario, this build will still be useful as a respectable casual gaming machine, receiving the odd upgrade or two when I have the means and desire to do so. Whatever happens, happens, and either way I still get a slick, pretty machine to keep me company with its pleasant whirring and beeping noises. Like an awesome little robot sidekick. A mostly immobile R2-D2, but with more balls and a better paint job. Not too bad at all, really.

Shameless F@H recruiting will now commence:

Get a much better CPU cooler. You'll need it when overclocking and Folding @ Home for Team 32. A truly good cause and way to put unused CPU + GPU cycles to good use.

Eeeehhh, no thanks. At least not right now, with this machine. Helping others with this program sounds cool, but I would like to try and help myself first. Sorry if that sounds selfish or something, I don't mean for it to.

 

[Theocnoob]

Eeeehhh, no thanks. At least not right now, with this machine. Helping others with this program sounds cool, but I would like to try and help myself first. Sorry if that sounds selfish or something, I don't mean for it to

I agree with you. You want to degrade my hardware by searching for a cure to cancer on it? Pay me. I'm not F@H, SETI, etc for anybody unless there's something in it for me.

 

[Robert17]

Eeeehhh, no thanks. At least not right now, with this machine. Helping others with this program sounds cool, but I would like to try and help myself first. Sorry if that sounds selfish or something, I don't mean for it to

I agree with you. You want to degrade my hardware by searching for a cure to cancer on it? Pay me. I'm not F@H, SETI, etc for anybody unless there's something in it for me.

I'm uncertain if this is posted in jest, or not..?

Something in it for you?? It seems that if your health degenerates due to some malady you may think differently about what's in it for you; a cure perhaps?

 

[Theocnoob]

I'm uncertain if this is posted in jest, or not..?

Something in it for you?? It seems that if your health degenerates due to some malady you may think differently about what's in it for you; a cure perhaps?

That was a bad attempt at humor, yes.

 

[Heartomaton]

One final pre-plunge checklist before I leave you alone, if you don't mind. After this I won't be back unless something goes awry/it's time to overclock, so I won't be bothering you guys for at least a little while.

1. Confirmation that everything you put together for me (including the superior motherboard you suggested) fits in the case I picked out. (Sorry to ask again. Paranoia's a *****.)

2. We've covered or linked to all the basic information I need to get started, yes?

3. Any last sage, expert advice to throw at me?

4. The part where I thank you for taking the time to work through this process with this chimp. I know explaining things to the inexperience first timer is sometimes taxing, but I sought help from experts, and you answered. Good on ya, sir. Won't forget it.

 

[Theocnoob]

Yes, the motherboard and other parts definitely fit in the case you have selected. It's a good case. It has the guts of a 760T without the fancy exterior with the big window etc.

To build your PC, I highly suggest watching some of those Carey Holzman build videos. If you are puzzled by the instructions for mounting your CPU cooler, you should watch a video specific to it (Youtube search Hyper 212 installation).

Basically, get all your parts out of their packages (keep the CPU socket's plastic cover on and keep the CPU in the little plastic container it comes in for now), put the case on some sort of non scratch surface, so that the case wont scratch and the surface itself wont scratch. Install the power supply, and ground yourself to it with the wrist strap. (Or if using gloves you can skip this step.) Installing the power supply should still be one of your first steps, along with installing the motherboard's rear I/O plate (aka I/O shield).

From there, follow Carey's instructions. Install the CPU, RAM, and CPU cooler outside the case m(doing this on the box the motherboard comes in is a good practice), then lower them in and secure them, and follow along with carey as he goes through the steps. Don't forget to use Corsair's class-leading cable management system to keep as much of your cabling BEHIND the motherboard tray as possible. This improves airflow and makes your system look better. Primarily airflow though.

It's all pretty straightforward.

The most critical part that you have to be careful with in your case is adding the heatsink compound (TIM: thermal interface material) beteween the CPU and the heatsink. Carey tends to use stock coolers which skip this step, so watch a video (tek syndicate makes a good one) on proper application of TIM. I suggest you pick up a tube of MX-2 or MX-4 or NTH1 instead of using what comes with the 212. Might shave a degree and change off your temperatures.

You can go ahead and buy your parts now. They are all compatible and it will make a nice system for you.

Once everything is up and running make sure to go into the BIOS (usually by spamming DEL when you turn the computer on) and set your RAM timings and voltage manually. You don't want 1600Mhz CL9 1.5V running @ 1333Mhz and 1.65V. We'll cross that bridge when we come to it though.

I suggest you pick up a bag of black cable ties/zip ties for your build. Makes securing cables behind the motherboard tray and bundling cables together easy for a much neater look. It is likely the case and power supply will both come with zip ties but these may not be enough and for the low cost of a baggie of zip ties it is worth being prepared. Make sure your screwdriver is magnetized! Very important. Have fun!