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- Oct 11, 2002
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- The Empire State
Quite possibly. Only way to find out if any of the other components died with it are to test each part in another machine. And yes, your power supply is indeed dead.
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Prime95 Blend instant bluescreen, other tests pass after overclocking
- Thread starter CyberClock
- Start date
Quite possibly. Only way to find out if any of the other components died with it are to test each part in another machine. And yes, your power supply is indeed dead.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
And here is the part about which I always get to shaking...some things taken out by a power supply will when put in another board will take out something in that rig also.
However if the defective power supply is replaced and then the whole of the suspect system is tested with a new and good power supply and their is an issue a good and working power supply is usually n0t taken out. The older original stuff is just found to be not working and I have not put shorted stuff in another working system and killed something there. Substitution for me has a point where I just declare parts dead and move on and not risk putting shorted parts in a working system and kill something there.
I say all that because his failure gives me a very odd feeling. He likely can replace the bad power supply and I have a gut feeling all is good. If that is not so then my guess is that mobo, cpu and video card have taken a hit. Like I said, I have a very odd feeling about his failure.
RGone...
OP
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2015
- Thread Starter
- #23
Yeah I am thinking it was the PSU, only perhaps. My GTX 460 has two PSU connectors on the side of it, and the extra power it demanded from OC'ing likely killed the PSU.
I am going to upgrade to this PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438025
And this GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487026
Since the GPU doesn't have side-connectors and relies on the PCI 3.0 slots instead, this would be safer for my PSU?
I am going to upgrade to this PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438025
And this GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487026
Since the GPU doesn't have side-connectors and relies on the PCI 3.0 slots instead, this would be safer for my PSU?
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
That PSU looks fine and with the increased power supply you wouldn't have to worry about the GFX cards power. That PSU is plenty big enough to run pretty much any card out there aside from a couple of dual cards I can think of. What I'm saying is you don't need to worry about the PSU even if you got a card with the extra power connectors.
OP
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2015
- Thread Starter
- #26
Is 500watts good? (http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-ATX12V-Supply-110-B1-0750-VR/dp/B00K85X23O)
Same planned GPU, and same current CPU inside motherboard (Amd Athlon II X4 640, OC'd from 3.0 to 3.6)
Same planned GPU, and same current CPU inside motherboard (Amd Athlon II X4 640, OC'd from 3.0 to 3.6)
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You linked a 750W PSU? The same one or something similar? Either way, its not 500W.
This Seasonic would be my choice at 550W (Tier 1 PSU): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...51119&cm_re=Seasonic_G-_-17-151-119-_-Product
This Seasonic would be my choice at 550W (Tier 1 PSU): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...51119&cm_re=Seasonic_G-_-17-151-119-_-Product
Find a power supply you're interested in, then look it up on this list...
Off the top of my head - if the OEM that makes the supply is Delta, Seasonic, or Super Flower you will be good.
I think there are 2 other OEMs that tend to always be good, but I can't remember off the top of my head. Hopefully others here will know.
Other common OEMs like FSP (Fortron Source) and CWT (Channel Well) can also make good supplies - but they also make a ton of "cost downed" ones that... aren't so good. You'll need to look at testing reviews for those - and by that REAL reviews that actually scope the PSU on the bench, and not just "it worked for the 15min i tested it, and it's shiny - 10/10 AWARD" reviews.
The holy grail find would be finding say a 750w Delta built supply for $75 somewhere, regardless of what brand is selling it. Also if you find that, HOOK US UP
Examples that sadly seems to be gone was newegg closing out their older Rosewill Capstone supplies - Super Flower was the OEM, and the non-modular 750w was $85.
Another was the Antec 750W TP-750C for $80, + $30 MIR. That one happens to be Seasonic.
It honestly is a PITA to cross reference everything, but you can save some good change with some luck and persistence. Worst case at least you'll know what your actually buying.
Almost forgot, also might want to be sure at what temperature a given PSU is rated for at it's stated voltage. Most will be "XXXw @ 50C" some 40C. Neither is really a problem, but Corsair kinda stepped in it when they rated their CX 750 for only 30C. This may or may not make a difference to you depending on where your PSU's air intake will be pulling from. If your case has your PSU pulling air from inside your case - then that really COULD be a problem.
Off the top of my head - if the OEM that makes the supply is Delta, Seasonic, or Super Flower you will be good.
I think there are 2 other OEMs that tend to always be good, but I can't remember off the top of my head. Hopefully others here will know.
Other common OEMs like FSP (Fortron Source) and CWT (Channel Well) can also make good supplies - but they also make a ton of "cost downed" ones that... aren't so good. You'll need to look at testing reviews for those - and by that REAL reviews that actually scope the PSU on the bench, and not just "it worked for the 15min i tested it, and it's shiny - 10/10 AWARD" reviews.
The holy grail find would be finding say a 750w Delta built supply for $75 somewhere, regardless of what brand is selling it. Also if you find that, HOOK US UP
Examples that sadly seems to be gone was newegg closing out their older Rosewill Capstone supplies - Super Flower was the OEM, and the non-modular 750w was $85.
Another was the Antec 750W TP-750C for $80, + $30 MIR. That one happens to be Seasonic.
It honestly is a PITA to cross reference everything, but you can save some good change with some luck and persistence. Worst case at least you'll know what your actually buying.
Almost forgot, also might want to be sure at what temperature a given PSU is rated for at it's stated voltage. Most will be "XXXw @ 50C" some 40C. Neither is really a problem, but Corsair kinda stepped in it when they rated their CX 750 for only 30C. This may or may not make a difference to you depending on where your PSU's air intake will be pulling from. If your case has your PSU pulling air from inside your case - then that really COULD be a problem.
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OP
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2015
- Thread Starter
- #31
Quick question, I bought a cooler/heatsink on the 2nd of April for the overclock mentioned in this thread. I am upgrading the CPU to a FX-6300.
Do I need to remove the thermal paste from the heatsink when adding a new CPU? I just took out the heatsink very easily now, and it wasn't stuck to the CPU. It still seems "wet" or non-dry if more accurate to say. Should I still remove it? Or could I just apply thermal paste to the new CPU and keep the old paste on the ~1-week used cooler.
Do I need to remove the thermal paste from the heatsink when adding a new CPU? I just took out the heatsink very easily now, and it wasn't stuck to the CPU. It still seems "wet" or non-dry if more accurate to say. Should I still remove it? Or could I just apply thermal paste to the new CPU and keep the old paste on the ~1-week used cooler.
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2012
Always clean and use new thermal interface material.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2012
Agreed!
OP
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2015
- Thread Starter
- #34
OK I finally set up my new CPU (FX-6300) and PSU. I had to get a new motherboard that supports AM3+ for the 6300 and ready to overclock.
For some reason, the CPU temps and fan speed/control are not showing. The CPU temps display in the BIOS. They do not appear in HWMonitor or Speedfan (nor fans adjustable). How can I get the temps to appear and make it adjustable?
Before the new motherboard, when I would boot up my computer, the CPU fans would spin to 100% (very loud), and only drop after the preset Speedfan settings launches in Windows. Now it spins at max for less than a second when I press power, before going back to inaudible.
As you can see below, the devices are recognized, but do not appear in HWMonitor or Speedfan. On speedfan there would be a value on the right of its window for the CPU fan.
The temps appear in BIOS. I disabled about every unnecessary CPU setting in the BIOS but to no avail.
I have also tried reflashing the BIOS.
For some reason, the CPU temps and fan speed/control are not showing. The CPU temps display in the BIOS. They do not appear in HWMonitor or Speedfan (nor fans adjustable). How can I get the temps to appear and make it adjustable?
Before the new motherboard, when I would boot up my computer, the CPU fans would spin to 100% (very loud), and only drop after the preset Speedfan settings launches in Windows. Now it spins at max for less than a second when I press power, before going back to inaudible.
As you can see below, the devices are recognized, but do not appear in HWMonitor or Speedfan. On speedfan there would be a value on the right of its window for the CPU fan.
The temps appear in BIOS. I disabled about every unnecessary CPU setting in the BIOS but to no avail.
I have also tried reflashing the BIOS.
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- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
You do n0t say what Gigabyte motherboard you got nor which revision of mobo you got. Revision located lower left along the front edge of mobo. Usually silk-screened in white.
So many have said in various forums that not even Gigabyte techs no what the programs are reading. So when I look at your temps under TMPINX, the core/package temp normally seen in HWMonitor may actually be the TMPIN2 read out.
Fan RPM is shown and if those are not true PWM fans...there will be no % read out since non-pwm fans are a higher or lower voltage only and n0t %.
RGone...
So many have said in various forums that not even Gigabyte techs no what the programs are reading. So when I look at your temps under TMPINX, the core/package temp normally seen in HWMonitor may actually be the TMPIN2 read out.
Fan RPM is shown and if those are not true PWM fans...there will be no % read out since non-pwm fans are a higher or lower voltage only and n0t %.
RGone...
OP
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2015
- Thread Starter
- #36
Thank you, the TMPIN2 temperature is the same as the BIOS temperature for the CPU so you are correct.
The motherboard is: 970-D3P. I see Rev. 02 for chipset and Rev. 40 for Southbridge according to CPU-Z.
How would fix the TMPIN2 temperature to register as the CPU instead?
I also adjusted the three fans but to no effect:
EDIT: I disabled fan control in BIOS, it was hidden in the PC Health Status menu. Fan went to 100% as expected. I am now going to overclock my CPU and will post back.
EDIT 2: I can't get the fan to decrease via Speedfan, just going to re-enabling fan control from the BIOS for overclock so it doesn't sound like a jet engine and the fact the BIOS already incrementally raises the fan speed depending on temperature.
The motherboard is: 970-D3P. I see Rev. 02 for chipset and Rev. 40 for Southbridge according to CPU-Z.
How would fix the TMPIN2 temperature to register as the CPU instead?
I also adjusted the three fans but to no effect:
EDIT: I disabled fan control in BIOS, it was hidden in the PC Health Status menu. Fan went to 100% as expected. I am now going to overclock my CPU and will post back.
EDIT 2: I can't get the fan to decrease via Speedfan, just going to re-enabling fan control from the BIOS for overclock so it doesn't sound like a jet engine and the fact the BIOS already incrementally raises the fan speed depending on temperature.
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OP
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2015
- Thread Starter
- #37
Overclocked to 4.3 Ghz, disabled all relevant settings in BIOS, and left fan control to automatically managed by BIOS (speed fan wasn't working).
After 15 min of blend test, my temperature stays in this zone. Going to do a longer stress test in a bit.
(I set the VCore to 1.4 in Bios, why does it appear 1.8 here?)
All good? Has this 3 and half week thread reached a successful conclusion?
After 15 min of blend test, my temperature stays in this zone. Going to do a longer stress test in a bit.
(I set the VCore to 1.4 in Bios, why does it appear 1.8 here?)
All good? Has this 3 and half week thread reached a successful conclusion?
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
I noticed it did that in the last SS as well. It has to be wrong. If you were pumping that many volts into the CPU it would overheat instantly and shut down. Is that the free version of HWMonitor, I don't see a package temp there.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
In addition most of us have found that running multiple monitoring tools at the same time can generate errors in one or the other of the applications. That might be why seems error ridden. I hate Speed Fan anyway. Not sure they are in the 21st century yet. Maybe but maybe not.
RGone...
RGone...
- Joined
- May 30, 2004
Sounds like possibly a bus error. OTOH, seems that bus errors rear their ugly head the most often on Core 2 Quads, because of cramming stuff on a long-in-the-tooth FSB architecture.
More likely unstable RAM on AMD and post-775 Intel.
