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Project: CM Stacker | Watercooling+ conroe update

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Senater_Cache

Member
Joined
May 22, 2004
Location
Gainesville, FL / Frankfurt Germany
Oh, Hi everyone :D .

My current rig is in sig and consists of an AMD AthlonXP Mobile chip on a NF7 board with a AGP 9800pro @ XT spec.
to say the least it is "old", well at least for gaming standards.

So I am building up the Stacker case that the above rig was in and am outfitting it with some new WC parts and of course a whole new Conroe Build to go along with it.

Had to take the old sucka outta the Stacker so I migrated it to its new home...
A semi-modded ANTEC SX1040BII. (sorry no worklog for this one).
here it is in its new home.

oldrig.jpg



Well on to the Stacker build.
I have done a small bit of work before deceiding to make a worklog so sorry for the time-warps. :rolleyes:

First a quick rundown of the specs for this setup:

XEON3060
eVGA n680i
Crucial 10th Anniversary D9GMH
eVGA 7900GTO...errm...GTX
Seagate Barracuda 320GB 7200.10
older PATA drives on PCI card
OCZ Powerstream520
CM Stacker
------WC------
Storm rev1
MCR320
DDC-2
PetrasTop
Pentosine G11
7/16th Masterklear
Denkis @ 7v via rheostat


Well there you go.
Here are some pics of the watercooling equipment.

pile.jpg


Turns out DangerDen like to put its own label over the original DDC label from LAING, and they dont list Wattage. It made me weary.

DDlabel.jpg



I removed the DD label and here is the actual info as LAING intended it. 18W, good good.

lainglabel.jpg


Cracked her open to expose the Orange-reddish impeller. So far so good, it actually IS a DDC2. (just making sure;) )

impeller.jpg


Now after taking out the impeller I noticed that it is marked using what I believe is most likely Sharpie marker and done by LAING QC. Does anyone know if that may interact with the chemicals in the loop? Either way I want to remove it, I just havent thought about how yet. I will try Alc and see if I can get it off.

impellermark.jpg
 
While I had the DDC opened I also took snaps of the PCB revision and such (in case of RMA or other technical problems.

ddcpcb.jpg

ddcpcbver.jpg

:slobber: :slobber:

As it pertains to the DDC, here are som eshots of PetrasTop, The [DDCT-01].

ddctopF.jpg


This top is machined out of Black Delrin and it is of GREAT build quiality! It feels solid and most important of all it will not hurt head-pressure unlike some other top.
One thing to consider for rev-02 Alex, a vibration diminishing mounting system! otherwise Bravo !
For those interested this top is available at Petrastechshop.com and certain other etailers.
here is a shot of the inside.

ddctopI.jpg


Here is the radiator, the swiftech MCR320 QuietPower series.
It performs (with low CFM fans) right between the BIP and the PA series.
A noticable con of this radiator is the barb-threading it is out-of line with the other swifty components.
It cannot be outfit with any afterarket Barb that I know of, such as the EK, Hi-Flo and AquaXtreme barbs.
bummer as I have to utilize Nylon barbs (at least I got them for free, thanks Alex)

I have high hopes for this radiator as I am stepping up to this from a 2-302 and a previously a Chevette.

mcr320long.jpg

mcr320thick.jpg


Ok here is a quick shot of the PentosineG11 coolant I will be trying out.
I have had great success with just 93% Distilled and 7% antifreeze in my other rig (in the antec case) but this build will be semi color-themed, so bring on the blue.

pentosine.jpg


And my most prized posession of all, the much rumored over and crazed after PetrasTechshop Pen !!!!
Here it is !
petrapen.jpg
 
Took the cooler off of the 7900GTO a while back when eVGA version wasnt confirmed 1.1n ram yet.
well, it is. lol
Now I need to find me some thermal pads to reatach the cooler on the ram ICS.

g71cooler.jpg

g71pcb.jpg

g71ram.jpg

g71.jpg



I gutted the stacker case and marked up the bottom of the case with cut-marks for the radiator placement.
The Stacker has an odd shaped vent in the bottom already, its 80mm wide but well over 240mm long.
In reality it cannot fit any fan great, so its outta here. ;)

Box of guts

bin.jpg


gutted

og.jpg


vent

ogfloor.jpg


marks

radcutmarks.jpg
 
When I gutted the case, I removed the mobo assembly (backplates, mobo-tray) to paint them.
The whole assembly can be broken apart into small components to be rearranged for BTX (sorry I didnt take pics of this stage) and painted individually....great CM!!

I spraypainted the parts using Rust-Oleum Professional Hi-Perf Enamel.
This is by far the best readily-available paint I have used in the US (even Graffiti's Montana does not compare)

I gave the bare metal a 2 coat prime coat using the above brand's crimson primer (for a rich black).

Then came 3 coats of Semi Gloss Black.
No clear.

This paint is very reflective and looks like it is clear coated all by its own.
Its also very scratch resistant once fully cured.

I highly recommend it.

backpanel.jpg

mbpanel.jpg


here are some close ups showing just how gret this paint is after just 2-3 coats on crimson primer.
This is without ANY sort of sanding or clear

orangepeel.jpg

orangepeel2.jpg

closeup.jpg
 
Something New got dropped off at my door today.
a brand new Intel XEON conroe 3060 week 29A

xeonbox.jpg

boxemblem.jpg

boxcode.jpg

chipIHS.jpg


I hope it clocks well. and I really hope the damn IHS is flat !

more very soon...


Ok here is my ram.

Crucial's 10th annyversary edition.
Pretty much this is D9GMH based Premium Ballsitix with a commemorative heatspreader (which look sreally really nice btw)
check em:

here is the part number in case you are looking for some.

ramcode.jpg


The box they come in is decked out in their blue and features a very sturdy design....

boxlogo.jpg


I received no chocolate ram-stick with my sample unlike most review samples did. what up with that crucial?
I was looking forward to some nice chocolate...oh well this is just as sweet, the heatspreader logo:

heatspreader.jpg


and of course a little peek at the ICs..all are touching tape !

helloIC.jpg


As I said these are Ballistix...here is the proof, the PCB actually says Ballistix lol.
pretty damn nice at only 229.00 FS ;)

ballistix.jpg
 
mmmmmhmmmmmm, man am I eager to see how that Xeon works out...oh, and the rest of that nice setup too ;)
 
Very very very nice work.

Let me know how that petra's top works out for you, I've been looking at that for the DDC+es that I'm getting. Same with the STORM.

7
 
will keep you posted guys.

So far I have heard that petrastop is a bit (just a tiny bit) noisier than the alphacool tops. I will see, but have no alphacool to compare with.

The storm is from my old system and I can tell you it works very well, just like cathar wanted hehe.
 
Here is a lil bit to chew on while we all wait.

Started prepping the WC and the rheo.

Here is the Rheo (silent dialing ...oh yeah !)

rheo.jpg

rheo_back.jpg


Also I am installing a Digital Multimeter for reading Voltage. I will be using it to set the fans to 7v or 9v or whatever.
The device uses a simple clamp to read and is fed via one Molex. quite nifty device as you can easily relocate its read-source.

My friend Rhino56 over at cryo-laboratory.com makes these, He is a great guy! These readers are quite affordable and effective. If you want one, just shoot him a PM and I am sure he will hook it up. He is also a member here and at OCF under the same handle.

Vmeter_front.jpg

I just painted it black so the paint is still partially wet in the pic.

Here is the device hooked up reading Zero

V-00.jpg


here it is reading off of the 5V lead of a molex connector on my PSU (right-most port)

V-5v.jpg




I also put the storm in its overnight restingplace, the Vinegar-bath.

Storm_1.jpg


after just 2 hours the results are already becoming apparent.

Storm_2hours.jpg


more tomorrow morning......
 
lookin' good! remember to wash the copper off with distilled water, I forgot the last time I did it, and when I took my Apogee out for cleaning last week, it looked like the Hulk had shed his skin.
 
well I think another bath will just do nothing. I have gone to work on it with a toothbrush already.
It actually came from swiftech with those cups dirty like that. I guess it is Copper Oxide....dont know though. Its greenish in color.

I think swiftech puts their blocks in the ultrasonic cleaner before shipping them out, no?
so if it didnt come off then, I cant so anything.
 
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